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One of many understated hits this yr at Watches and Wonders was the 34mm A. Lange & Söhne 1815. If that is the height of the slight watch pattern, then we “small-wristers” have been nicely rewarded. Right this moment, we’ll take a more in-depth have a look at the 2 variants of this charming costume watch.
The longstanding 38.5mm 1815 from A. Lange & Söhne doesn’t precisely qualify as a behemoth. Nonetheless, the model noticed a chance to supply a smaller watch. Certainly, interesting to those that get pleasure from a extra discreet look on the wrist isn’t the worst concept. Plus, a brand new 34mm case works on a smaller wrist and works for ladies. As we’ll see, although, the most recent 1815 wasn’t solely about downsizing. Lange has launched a brand new caliber, its seventy fifth, on this mannequin.
The 34mm A. Lange & Söhne 1815
Lange launched the brand new 34mm 1815 in two completely different varieties. Its case is manufactured from 18K white or pink gold and has a blue dial. As we’ll see, the watches strictly adhere to many Glashütte design tenets. An instance is using 925 silver as a substitute of brass for the dial.
Contemplating the straps, every comes with a sophisticated and calmly padded alligator accent and matching gold pin buckle. The water resistance is costume watch typical at simply 30 meters.
A magical case
I’ll element the brand new motion shortly, however relaxation assured that it contributes to an unbelievable type issue. The bigger 38.5mm 1815 is not any porker at 8.8mm thick, however the newest 34mm is available in at simply 6.4mm! That’s unbelievable, but it surely’s not so skinny that it feels delicate or fussy. Wanting on the case profile reveals curved lugs with horizontally brushed sides, polished chamfers, and tops. The mid-case is the place the watch actually shines, although. Extra horizontal brushing is sandwiched by two skinny layers of polished metallic. The outermost layers type the bezel and case again.
The L152.1 — Lange’s seventy fifth caliber
I initially mistook the 34mm 1815 motion for an present caliber. In spite of everything, Lange’s handbook wind powerplants have a definite, recognizable look. This was incorrect, although, because the model created the brand new L152.1 for this watch. It’s technically spectacular too. Lange regulates the 21 jewel caliber to 5 positions for accuracy. The frequency is average at 21,600vph, which permits for 72 hours of energy reserve.
Concerning ending, that is the place Lange hits its stride. The normal three-quarter plate was launched by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in 1864 and has grow to be a trademark of most watches from the realm. Right here, it’s finely embellished with Glashütte ribbing and reveals off anglage on the uncovered edge. A hand-engraved stability cock completes the anticipated look for a motion from this a part of Germany. Lastly, notice the chatons housing the 4 seen jewels. I usually favor plentiful bridges, but it surely’s arduous to argue with the Glashütte custom.
Addressing the (small) elephant within the room
For individuals who comply with horological information, the concept of the watch media fawning over a smallish 34mm piece just like the 1815 most likely borders on nauseating. Certainly, the reception has been overwhelmingly constructive. Groupthink, overexcitement a few new case dimension, and so forth are seemingly a number of the ideas that come to thoughts. Usually, I’d agree, however regardless of the sluggish crawl to extra average case sizes, most manufacturers have refused to breach the 36mm threshold (even going beneath 37mm has been a problem). That’s what makes this new Lange so important.
My temporary go to to the Lange sales space at Watches and Wonders elicited a comparatively uncomfortable rationale in regards to the new 1815 from one of many staff. It was a mixture of “we wished to do one thing smaller” and “this watch could possibly be good for ladies.” In consequence, I actually assume that many Lange associates had been shocked that so many males preferred the watch. Maybe it didn’t compute with the unique intent, however extra admiration slightly than much less is all the time a constructive.
On the wrist
Earlier than shifting to London, I by no means would have thought of a 34mm watch just like the 1815. Because of collector pals who get pleasure from smaller 50s items, I now hardly ever put on a watch above 36mm. These days, peak consolation for me is outlined by a easy 34 or 35mm classic watch (which might be outlined as a costume watch in at present’s phrases) on a strap. One of these watch is gentle and ethereal. Extra importantly, watches like this direct the deal with no matter case, motion, and dial particulars are current. There’s no hoopla or superfluousness. In different phrases, the watch stands by itself, and it needs to be good or else! “Positive,” you’re most likely saying, however the identical will be mentioned a few bigger costume watch. Effectively, I disagree.
I get it that large-wristed people have a tendency to love bigger watches, but it surely’s alright to put on smaller watches with a bigger wrist. The truth is that extra time has handed with smaller watches dominating the scene than bigger. Now we have selections now, which is nice, however generally reconsidering a watch just like the 34mm 1815 requires a mindset adjustment of what suits. Let’s come again to why a big diameter costume watch doesn’t work as nicely. Actually, they usually appear like dinner plates (hi there, Patek 6119) and have an excessive amount of house on the dial. Plus, they put on like an enormous slab on the wrist. Costume watches aren’t purported to be showy, which explains why this 1815 approaches visible and sporting perfection, for many people who noticed these watches in Geneva.
Closing ideas on the 34mm 1815
Let me get one factor out of the way in which. I ought to have picked the brand new 34mm 1815 for my checklist of favorites from Watches and Wonders. It was an oversight. It is a nice launch that I’ll significantly contemplate if I’m lucky sufficient to buy on this value bracket once more. Lange lists these watches as “value upon request”, however we’ve uncovered a value of roughly €27,000. That’s an anticipated value for a watch that competes with the standard prime manufacturers. In different phrases, it’s costly, however one way or the other accepted. Plus, until a 90s mannequin from one other model is within the operating, the 1815 is a singular, smaller selection for now.
