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The mighty Rolex Datejust turns 80 this 12 months. That makes it one of many longest regularly produced watches on the market, which isn’t any small feat. At Fratello, we intend to have fun with a sequence of articles on the mannequin, which I get to kick off right this moment.
I wish to begin the celebrations with 5 details in regards to the Rolex Datejust you (most likely) didn’t know. For those who already knew all 5, you possibly can contemplate your self graduated and prepared for a brand new pastime! Let’s dive in!
Picture: Phillips
Little-known Rolex Datejust reality #1: An anniversary mannequin
Let’s begin the record with a comparatively simple one which few individuals notice right this moment: the Rolex Datejust was an anniversary mannequin when it got here out. The Rolex firm celebrated 40 years when it launched the Datejust in 1945.
Picture: Phillips
This makes right this moment’s anniversary a bit extra particular nonetheless, because it means the Datejust has been round for two-thirds of the corporate’s existence. That places issues into perspective, doesn’t it? There have been 40 years of Rolex with out the Datejust, adopted by 80 years with it.
Particular editions are nothing new. In reality, the very first batch of 100 items, launched at Resort des Bergues in Geneva, got here with distinctive numbering and no common serial quantity or reference engraved on the case.
Picture: Amsterdam Classic Watches
Little-known Rolex Datejust reality #2: Not the primary identify thought of
I can break up this second little-known Rolex Datejust reality into two components. The primary is extra extensively recognized than the second, so we’ll ease into this. When the watch was first launched with reference 4467 in 1945, it didn’t but have “Datejust” written on the dial. Not one of the 5xxx and even the primary 6xxx references that may comply with featured the mannequin designation on the dial. It wasn’t till 1953 that we’d first see “Datejust” written underneath the Rolex wordmark.
Picture: Bulang & Sons
Okay, on to the extra obscure a part of this little-known reality. Do you know that “Datejust” wasn’t even the primary identify Rolex thought of for the mannequin? The corporate registered the identify “Ritedate” on October 1st, 1945. “Jubilee” was additionally thought of, per the primary reality on this record.
Rolex even thought of the identify “Victory” however deemed it too politically charged in 1945.
The primary Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust, reference 4467, from 1945
Little-known Rolex Datejust reality #3: The primary gold-only flagship
When individuals consider the flagship Rolex mannequin right this moment, they doubtless consider the Day-Date. An argument might even be made for the Daytona in right this moment’s extra sports-oriented watch market. Again in 1945, nonetheless, Rolex positioned the Datejust because the zenith of its watchmaking prowess.
The Day-Date’s attribute mannequin of valuable metals solely, paired with a signature bracelet (President), was pioneered by the Datejust. Rolex first produced it solely in valuable metals and offered it on the then-brand-new, model-exclusive Jubilee bracelet. It wasn’t till the early Nineteen Fifties {that a} two-tone mannequin appeared. Round 1953, the primary full-steel Datejust got here alongside in reference 6305, slowly paving the way in which for a brand new flagship to take over in 1956.
On this sense, we should always regard the Day-Date as an evolution of the Datejust, just like the Datejust was an evolution of earlier no-date Oyster fashions.
A gold Rolex Datejust ref. 6305
Little-known Rolex Datejust reality #4: Pre-fluted bezels and no-Cyclops fashions
Reference 6305 carries significance in a number of methods. Not solely did the primary metal model of the Rolex Datejust use this reference quantity, but it surely additionally launched the now-iconic fluted bezel. The rooftop sample debuted on this mannequin round 1953. Earlier Datejusts got here with reeded bezels, consisting of a lot finer tooth lower right into a domed bezel. Whereas the reeded bezel was broadly used throughout the trade, the fluted bezel can be rather more attribute of Rolex, forming the template we now know and love.
The opposite important step in forming the Rolex aesthetic might be thought of extra controversial. The 63xx technology additionally noticed the introduction of a magnifying lens, dubbed the Cyclops, on prime of the acrylic crystal. This hate-it-or-love-it function would grow to be a model signature and has persevered till right this moment.
Pre-pencil alpha arms
The late ’50s noticed a couple of different introductions that may outline the Datejust for the remainder of its life. For starters, in 1956, Rolex launched caliber 1065. This thinner computerized motion negated the necessity for a protruding case again, often known as a “bubble again.” A couple of years later, the old-school alpha and dagger handsets made approach for the pencil arms we affiliate with the Rolex Datejust and Day-Date right this moment.

Little-known Rolex Datejust reality #5: a no-lume dial
Okay, I’ve gone into fairly obscure early Rolex Datejust historical past for my first 4 details. Let me end with a extra extensively recognized and sensible one. That is one you very properly may use if you’re out there for a classic Datejust.

As you most likely know, the Datejust is available in tons of refined variations. One notably fascinating instance is the no-lume dial. Rolex began becoming the Datejust with lume — first radium and later tritium and (Tremendous) LumiNova — fairly early. Radium and tritium are, after all, radioactive, and sure markets prohibited the import of radioactive items. To counter this, Rolex omitted the small radium plots behind the markers on choose dials and fitted closed handsets with out lume basins. Since many of those watches went to the Japanese market, these dials are sometimes called “Japan dials.”
Apparently, Rolex used the common base dials with common printing, so a no-lume dial may nonetheless function the “T Swiss T” designation, indicating the presence of tritium regardless that there’s none.
Picture: Bulang & Sons
Closing ideas
So, there you’ve got it — 5 little-known details in regards to the watch that celebrates its eightieth birthday this 12 months. The importance of the Datejust can’t be overstated. It was, in any case, the primary watch with an routinely and immediately altering date, which is now omnipresent. It additionally set a precedent when it comes to design, not just for Rolex but in addition for watches basically. The Datejust is a type of watch-design archetypes, iconic inside our little sub-universe and even past.
Picture: Bulang & Sons
We shall be masking the Rolex Datejust in a sequence of articles all year long. Fratello editors will share their favourite variants and extra, so if you’re a Datejust fanboy like me, keep tuned!
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