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Final yr, I requested, “Can we recognize the Rolex Submariner as only a nice dive watch?” That query and article sparked plenty of debate. As we speak, I’m asking an identical query of the Submariner’s non secular competitor, the 42.3mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique.
“Icon” is without doubt one of the most overused phrases within the watch world. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is without doubt one of the few dive watches, alongside the Doxa Sub 300, Zodiac Sea Wolf, and the Rolex Submariner, that really deserves the title. This month, I spent some high quality time with Blancpain’s 42.3mm Fifty Fathoms in Grade 23 titanium. Listed here are some ideas.
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
I say “icon” as a result of, as lots of you already know, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms was one of many actually unique dive watches. Launched in 1953, it heralded a brand new period of scuba diving at each a industrial and leisure degree. Using aqualungs allowed folks to discover the world’s oceans, seas, and lakes and enabled scientists and explorers to doc new findings. Dive watches performed a essential function in offering elapsed time for calculating oxygen use and, later, to assist keep away from the bends. Actually, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is so iconic that RJ wrote an in depth historical past of the watch right here, which I encourage you to go and browse earlier than coming again to as we speak’s article.
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms on this 42.3mm case measurement wears a lot better for me than the model’s bigger choices. RJ has frolicked with a few of these, together with a 45mm model. Whereas these watches will be wearable, they’d look a bit foolish on my small 6.25″ (15.9cm) wrists. So I used to be excited to spend time with the smaller and extra bodily approachable choice within the Fifty Fathoms lineup.
Rising common recognition?
Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms doesn’t have fairly the cultural cut-through of the Rolex Submariner, however I feel that is beginning to change. We have now seen the success of the Blancpain × Swatch collaboration, which has helped place the Fifty Fathoms again into common cultural consciousness in a approach it wasn’t, say, 5 years in the past.
By way of pure competitors, the Fifty Fathoms is a step above the Submariner however inhabits the identical ecosystem — i.e., the realm of luxurious dive watches with severe cultural credentials. Subsequently, once I say that the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and the Rolex Submariner are non secular rivals, I imply this concerning each watches’ histories, not particularly their respective retail costs.
A chance to spend time with the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
I had lengthy been curious in regards to the Fifty Fathoms, however I’d by no means dealt with one and positively by no means anticipated to have the chance to take one into the ocean. This modified not too long ago when Blancpain mentioned Fratello might use considered one of its dive watches within the sea. I knew this might be a golden alternative to lastly take a Fifty Fathoms into its supposed native habitat and uncover the way it felt.
Off the bat, there have been just a few issues I notably preferred in regards to the Fifty Fathoms however one factor I didn’t. Getting the unfavourable out of the way in which first, the model’s choice to engrave its identify into the aspect of the case appears utterly pointless and just a little busy. It’s like having a paragraph of textual content on the dial of the Tudor Pelagos; there’s simply no purpose for it, and it interferes with the watch’s design purity. That gripe apart, I instantly preferred the light-weight really feel and ruggedness of the 42.3mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The bezel motion was great, and the dial popped, notably in poor lighting situations, resembling underwater or in darkish shade.
A technically succesful dive watch
This model of the Fifty Fathoms has a wearable case, partly due to what seems like a compact lug-to-lug. I used to be shocked once I measured a 47mm span as a result of it felt much more compact on my wrist within the ocean. The watch has a 14.3mm thickness, which feels chunky however not overly so on the wrist. That is almost certainly due to the case’s titanium development, making it really feel comparatively gentle and nimble on the wrist.
The case supplies a 300m water resistance score (the identical because the Submariner). Capping its bezel is a sapphire insert with luminescent markers that glow brightly, even in just a little shade throughout daylight. The dial is much like the unique Nineteen Fifties design, with numerals on the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock factors. Considerably controversially, there’s a date aperture at 4:30. I choose a date window at 6 however will tolerate one at 3 o’clock. I often discover 4:30 just a little jarring, but it surely in some way works higher within the steel than in on-line inventory photographs.
Glorious match and end with the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
The rubber strap is mounted to the watch with bolts, including an additional diploma of safety over spring bars. If I had been in a monetary place to get a watch of this worth (€20,350), I’d in all probability make investments €800 additional to get the inventory bracelet. That mentioned, the equipped rubber Tropic-style strap is solely glorious, extremely snug, and simple to regulate.
Contained in the case beats the in-house computerized caliber 1315. This motion has three barrels, which offer a five-day energy reserve, on par with watches just like the IWC Mark XX. The motion can also be notably fairly, bearing a stable 18K gold gunmetal-finished rotor with brushed gold textual content and borders. Using gold isn’t merely an train in luxurious; the steel’s heavier mass additionally makes the automated winding extra environment friendly.
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms within the ocean
Taking the Fifty Fathoms underwater is an train in legibility. Using Arabic numerals on a dive watch, I discover, is without doubt one of the finest methods watch designers can create immediate legibility in tough or, in my case, tough ocean situations. Tough seas, bubbles, churning water, and never all the time understanding up from down are only a few of the challenges you might face when attempting to learn the time. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms handles these notably properly due to the Arabic numerals. This design choice permits the wearer to rapidly and effortlessly set up a degree of reference on the dial.
The big, knurled crown can also be reassuring. I used this to set the time of the evaluate unit when the watch arrived, and it felt extraordinarily sturdy and properly made. The entire watch exudes a way of luxurious solidity. It’s a curious mixture of boutique luxurious and ruggedness, which differs barely from the Rolex Submariner. Whereas the Submariner feels just a little extra industrial, the Blancpain feels just a little extra…handcrafted, if that is sensible. There’s something particular at play, although I’m not fully positive what it’s. Maybe it’s simply an emotional factor.
Concluding ideas
Usually talking, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms seems like a wholly completely different beast from the Rolex Submariner. Whereas the Rolex feels, properly, just a little bland, the Blancpain has swagger. That mentioned, I discover the Submariner extra wearable on my smaller wrists, and subsequently, I might lean in the direction of that if had been ready to make a purchase order choice between the 2.
Nonetheless, if Blancpain had been to launch a 40mm or smaller regular-production mannequin with a compact lug-to-lug to match, we might have a wholly completely different consequence. I feel I might lean in the direction of the Blancpain due to the historical past, the design, and the truth that it’s the lesser-known choice. So, can we recognize the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms as only a good ocean-going dive watch? I feel so, however let me know your ideas within the feedback!

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