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Whereas some could give equal credit score to the tourbillon or the perpetual calendar, I actually imagine the minute repeater to be the king of problems. Not solely is it one thing that’s extremely complicated to engineer inside such a small case, but it surely additionally has a historical past which spans all the best way again to a few of the earliest horological developments. Even supposing repeating watches have been made for round 275 years, there are nonetheless new developments and good concepts that proceed to revolutionise the expertise. Listed below are a few of watchmaking’s finest minute repeaters.
Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Traditional
The Christopher Ward Bel Canto is categorically not a minute repeater as a result of it solely chimes the hours as they cross, in any other case often known as a sonnerie au passage, nonetheless it has earned a spot on this record attributable to its sheer affordability. It’s shockingly good to even get a style of a repeating look ahead to beneath US$5,000, as you could battle even to discover a repeating pocket watch in a state of ailing restore for that little. The Christopher Ward FS01 even appears to be like like a piece of excessive horology above its laser-etched guilloché dial, and the success of this mannequin alone has singlehandedly necessitated fast enlargement for this once-micro British/Swiss unbiased. Worth: US$4,615 (on 5-link bracelet) These are additionally obtainable to strive on now in-store and to pre-order at our London Discovery Studio for £3,745.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Minute Repeater
Often called “The Watchmaker of Watchmakers” Jaeger-LeCoultre has been the brains behind a few of the most spectacular actions for over a century, usually being neglected for the opposite model title on the dial. However within the twenty first century, JLC is getting its due recognition. The Reverso Minute Repeater is known as a celebration of its hottest watch since 1931 mixed with the Swiss model’s ingenuity, engineering experience, and inventive execution. The primary dial of the Reverso Minute Repeater showcases a beautiful guilloché spiral flooded with flinqué enamel, however flipping the case reveals a skeletonised view of the Calibre 953. By activating the lever, you possibly can comply with the procession of power because the hand-wound motion unleashes its chimes. Becoming that right into a 31mm 18k pink gold case is not any easy activity. Worth: US$299,000
Louis Vuitton Voyager Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon
Though Louis Vuitton’s high-end watchmaking efforts have been overhauled to streamline the flagship Tambour assortment, its extra inventive collections are flourishing beneath the watchmaking energy of La Fabrique du Temps. The Voyager case is really distinctive within the present watch panorama, mixing harsh edges and uniform brushing with natural sweeps and polished surfaces. It creates a silhouette which feels alien however alluring, and you then’re pulled in deeper by the openworked dial, coated solely by a grid-laced sapphire disk that brings consideration to the V-shaped flying tourbillon. That window into the L V100 motion permits you to see the cathedral minute repeater in movement, as if its a gadget from a far-off civilisation. Worth: US$285,000
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication
Should you have a look at the Roger Dubuis catalogue from its basis in 1995 to as we speak, you’ll see numerous mutations from a conventional watchmaker into what the model now calls “Hyper Horology”. That phrase actually rings true with its latest Excalibur Grande Complication that doesn’t pull a single punch in its quest for extremity. Powered by two micro-rotors, the calibre RD118 boasts a perpetual calendar, flying tourbillon, and a minute repeater. Some could say it wants a chronograph to really rely as a grande complication, however this dial clearly doesn’t want any additional additions. Big retrograde shows with warping scales create an intoxicating show, and it’s one that continues to be surprisingly legible by means of the organised chaos of the openworked dial. With 684 motion parts and the Poinçon de Genève, this 45mm hunk of 18k pink gold reveals you find out how to be loud and proud even earlier than activating the chimes. Worth: US$691,000
Biver Carillon Tourbillon Desert Rose
Jean-Claude Biver is to watchmaking what Rick Rubin is to music. A person whose enterprise sense and inventive imaginative and prescient are completely married to create not solely monetary success, but additionally a loyal fanbase. Biver’s eponymous model, based alongside along with his son Pierre, has come out swinging in its first few years of operation, and the Carillon Tourbillon Desert Rose is one in every of its most alluring releases. The calibre JCB-001-B with its flying tourbillon, carillon minute repeater and micro-rotor has powered a good few references already, however I’ve singled out the Desert Rose for its mixture of key aesthetic thrives not like another model. The three-dimensional guilloché part of mother-of-pearl is breathtaking alongside the baguette-cut ruby hour markers, and the strong 18k rose gold bracelet with its chunky hyperlinks is really decadent. Worth: CHF 670,000 (~US$822,090)
Patek Philippe 5308G-001 Quadruple Complication
Any record of excessive problems wouldn’t be full with no function from Patek Philippe, usually considered as the height of Swiss watchmaking. Throughout the sporty look of the two-tone blue dial and its remarkably legible structure, the Quadruple Complication manages to bundle up a perpetual calendar together with a moonphase, a split-seconds chronograph, and naturally, the minute repeater. The white gold case is mesmerising with its natural shapes and skeletonised lugs, giving this watch a definite air of wanting ahead into the longer term. The calibre R CHR 27 PS QI makes use of a micro rotor to routinely wind its 48-hour energy reserve, which you’ll be able to decide to cowl with the included modular strong caseback or have it displayed with the open sapphire. It could value as a lot as a pleasant home, but it surely additionally represents true mastery of a number of crafts. Worth: CHF 1,050,000 (~US$1,284,980)
A.Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual
Launched this yr, the brand new A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual combines the 2 of the noble problems in a restrained, Germanic manner that solely Lange may. A part of a really tight three watch assortment that Lange launched this yr at Watches and Wonders, this represented essentially the most difficult of the trio, and constructed on the work the model had executed beforehand with the Langematik Perpetual and Richard Lange Minute Repeater. The motion has been idiot-proofed to a level, however the proficient Anthony De Haas and his group, so the fortunate 50 who’re in a position to purchase one can use and set with out concern. Worth: POA.
Time+Tide Timeless Choose: Philippe Dufour Grand and Petite Sonnerie
A very non-discerning eye would scan previous this watch and never suppose a lot of it. Fairly and stylish, sure, however the white enamel dial, tall Roman numerals and blued Breguet palms don’t give away its secret simply. However with just a little bit of information, that eye would spot the Holy Grail. Launched as Philippe Dufour’s first wristwatch in 1992, he constructed upon his expertise engaged on repeaters at Audemars Piguet and have become the primary watchmaker to mix each grand and petite sonnerie problems inside a single wristwatch. The grand sonnerie chimes the hours each hour, in addition to the hours and quarters each quarter. The petite sonnerie is analogous, however doesn’t chime the hours each quarter. You’ll be able to regulate how these work together with sliders on the aspect of the case, activating or disabling every individually, or simply manually activate the minute repeater by urgent the crown. Solely 8 of those watches had been ever made, and whereas a couple of have come up for public sale every so often, it was the No. 3 in rose gold which offered for the report worth of US$7,630,000 in 2021 by A Collected Man.
