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Audemars Piguet is known for utilizing ceramics in its Royal Oak line. Among the many highlights embody the ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and Double Stability Wheel Openworked fashions. In the case of particular colours, the primary two that come to thoughts are the black and electric-blue shades that almost all of you’ll know. However you’ll quickly add one other coloration to that listing. With the introduction of a trio of Royal Oak “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” fashions, Audemars Piguet celebrates the evening sky above the Vallée de Joux, which additionally impressed Gérald Genta for the darkish blue coloration of the primary Royal Oak ref. 5402. Let’s discover out extra!
Audemars Piguet is celebrating its one hundred and fiftieth anniversary this yr. We’ve got already seen a string of exceptional releases from the model, as Lex reported. The standouts had been, for sure, the brand new Perpetual Calendar fashions that debuted solely a month in the past. However on this week of Watches and Wonders, the model surprises us with a trio of releases. This time, there are not any new horological developments. Relatively, what we get are three acquainted watches executed in darkish blue ceramic. You would possibly marvel what makes that so particular. Effectively, you noticed the header image earlier than you clicked, so ask your self whether or not you had been as intrigued as I used to be whenever you noticed the watches.
The story of the Royal Oak “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” fashions
If stripped right down to its essence, it is a trio of watches in a brand new ceramic coloration. However let’s make it a bit of extra substantial by explaining what impressed these items. The blue shade refers back to the darkish coloration of the evening sky within the Vallée de Joux, which impressed Gérald Genta for the dial of the Royal Oak ref. 5402. When he requested Geneva-based dial maker Stern to duplicate that coloration, the corporate did simply that. The signature coloration “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” was created by including pigment no. 50 to a protecting varnish referred to as Zapon. In keeping with Audemars Piguet, the “cloud” impact of that coloration was the results of a chemical response created by pouring a little bit of black into the liquid lacquer.
Whereas the signature “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” coloration continues to be produced for the dial of the Royal Oak “Jumbo,” the manufacturing methods have modified. Right this moment, the colour is created utilizing a PVD (Bodily Vapour Deposition) course of. This ensures a extra homogenous tone, leading to extra managed and higher outcomes for the model’s dials. However in terms of creating ceramic in the identical coloration, it’s a totally totally different problem. To make sure the identical managed manufacturing course of with constant outcomes, it took Audemars Piguet a number of years to develop the fabric with this signature coloration. In the long run, although, the engineers succeeded, and now we see three watches in darkish blue ceramic — one Royal Oak and two Royal Oak Offshore fashions. Let’s go over them intimately.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Stability Wheel Openworked “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50”
The primary watch is the Royal Oak Double Stability Wheel Openworked “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” (ref. 15416CD.OO.1225CD.01). This one follows the instance of the 2 black ceramic fashions that got here earlier than it. The final was a black ceramic model with a rose-tone caliber that debuted final yr, as Thomas reported. This new model encompasses a blue ceramic 41mm case matched with a darkish blue built-in bracelet. The case is barely 9.7mm thick and has a 50m water resistance score.
Protected by the AR-coated flat sapphire crystal is the model’s caliber 3132. For this watch, the designers at Audemars Piguet determined to go for a rhodium-tone model of the motion. Pleasingly, the bezel screws match the colour of the motion. However it’s not all rhodium galore as a result of some pink gold particulars distinction the motion properly, just like the axis that holds the double-balance-wheel building and the arms and hour markers.
The open-worked Audemars Piguet caliber 3132
The motion each seems and is technically spectacular. Caliber 3132 debuted in 2016 and offered two steadiness wheels and hairsprings mounted on high of one another on a shared axis. This particular patented building is alleged to enhance accuracy and stability. It permits a view of the beating coronary heart of the watch from each the entrance and the again of the motion. Moreover, the open-worked bridges permit for a view of the gear prepare, additional enhancing the magic. The ending of the totally different elements is meticulously performed, as we’ve come to know from Audemars Piguet.
Technically, the caliber contains 245 elements and operates at 21,600vph whereas providing 45 hours of energy reserve. For those who flip the watch round, you will note the closely skeletonized rotor by way of the sapphire window of the titanium case again. Whereas it’s a fantastically executed rotor, the true magic is on the entrance of the watch. I really like that Audemars Piguet selected to match darkish blue with a glowing rhodium end. Because of this, it creates a really technical total look, and the little sparkles of pink gold are the icing on the cake. The brand new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Stability Wheel Openworked “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” could have a retail worth of €101,600.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42mm “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50”
The second mannequin is the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph (ref. 26238CD.OO.1300CD.01). This watch encompasses a 42mm blue ceramic case matched with a blue ceramic bracelet. The case is 15.3mm thick and encompasses a matching ceramic crown with a titanium chip, blue ceramic chronograph pushers, and a titanium and sapphire case again. Moreover, the case and bracelet are matched with a Méga Tapisserie dial in the identical coloration. It creates a correct monochromatic total aesthetic contrasted by little parts. The stainless-steel bezel screws, the titanium crown chip, and the white gold arms and markers present a pleasant visible break from all of the blue.
For those who flip the watch round, you’ll see the pink gold rotor of the 433-part in-house caliber 4404. This automated flyback chronograph motion operates at 28,800vph, has 40 jewels, and affords 70 hours of energy reserve. Pulling your eyes away from the motion and to the bracelet, chances are you’ll discover that Audemars Piguet up to date it. The pins connecting the studs to the hyperlinks are actually seamlessly built-in to create a fair sleeker look. General, I just like the monochromatic blue aesthetic of this new Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 42mm, which could have a retail worth of €87,400.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 43mm “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50”
The ultimate mannequin on this trio is the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 43mm “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” (ref. 26420SO.OO.A029VE.01). In contrast to the opposite two watches, this isn’t a totally ceramic mannequin. The watch encompasses a 43mm stainless-steel case with a blue ceramic bezel and a 14.4mm thickness. The case additionally encompasses a blue ceramic crown and matching trendy chronograph pushers on the suitable aspect. Moreover, it’s waterproof to 100 meters and paired with a textured blue calfskin leather-based strap. Contained in the case is a darkish blue Méga Tapisserie dial, identical to this watch’s smaller brother. The white gold arms and hour markers and the white tachymeter scale and markings on the dial present the required distinction.
Audemars Piguet equips the watch with its 381-part caliber 4401. This automated chronograph motion operates at 28,800vph, has 40 jewels, and affords 70 hours of energy reserve. The built-in caliber encompasses a column wheel and a flyback perform, identical to the caliber 4404 that powers its smaller brother. This final “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” mannequin will promote for €43,100.
Last ideas on the brand new Royal Oak “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” fashions
General, I just like the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” coloration of this new ceramic. It’s a splendidly darkish and deep blue that may undoubtedly achieve numerous followers. I a lot favor it over the black and electric-blue ceramic that Audemars Piguet makes use of in different fashions. In the case of choosing a favourite of those three watches, I’d select the Royal Oak Double Stability Wheel Openworked. The mixture of the blue shade with the motion’s rhodium end simply works so effectively. Add that to a darkish blue denim outfit, and it’s a match made within the blue heavens of the Vallée de Joux.
