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The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P was a shock at Watches and Wonders 2025. It’s been a very long time for the reason that model launched a clear, easy watch at an enormous annual present like this, and it was welcome. At this time, we’ll take a better take a look at this gem.
For Patek Philippe, 2024 was the yr of double denim, and I have to say it was forgettable. I’ve grown to like this model from a classic standpoint, and I do know it will possibly produce some unimaginable watches. Nonetheless, the final decade has been fraught with overdone items, jeweled monstrosities, or (recently) sq. goofiness. Lastly, Patek brings one thing lovely in a means that solely the esteemed watchmaker can handle. The Calatrava 6196P is a return to a watch that I’d think about shopping for. Lastly…
The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P
On the face of it, the Patek Philippe Calatrava is the best gown watch of all time. It’s the customary, and we will struggle about it, however you’ll lose. References just like the 96 and 570 are nonetheless so good that different manufacturers unsuccessfully proceed attempting to reinvent the wheel as an alternative of shamelessly copying. Weirdly, although, Patek has determined to throw the newborn out with the bathwater for the reason that demise of the 5196. The corporate has been on a bizarre kind of quest to create bigger and extra ornate Calatravas. This yr, it was as if an imaginary tack hammer thwacked the corporate heads and jolted them into making a timeless nice. The Calatrava 6196P is the results of this awakening, and dammit, it’s good.
With a 38mm diameter, the platinum Calatrava 6196P nonetheless isn’t as small as I’d prefer it to be, but it surely’s getting there. To check, it’s 1mm bigger than the discontinued 5196, however 1mm smaller than the 6119. So, it’s clear that Patek isn’t able to go smaller like Lange with its superb 1815. We’ll survive, although. Relating to the depth ranking, that is most undoubtedly a land-ready gown watch with its 30m spec.
A beautiful profile
The Calatrava 6196P is 9.33mm thick, together with the sapphire crystal. It cuts a slim determine and boasts beautiful case ending, together with horizontal brushing on the edges. The acquainted signed crown faithfully sits at 3 o’clock. Admittedly, for a manual-winding watch, it’s small. From the aspect, the lug profile doesn’t fairly decide to the beautiful rounded type of the 570, but it surely’s nonetheless lovely. The downward curve is noticeable and chic.
The polished bezel, then again, is a compromise. See the “coin-edge” bezel above on the 570. I feel it’s a miss that Patek went with a downward-sloping bezel on the 6196P as an alternative of the right-angle design from generations previous. Nonetheless, the 6196P is a reasonably watch.
A traditional dial with a contemporary twist
Patek opted for classically styled utilized hour markers on the Calatrava 6196P. This model of indexes and spherical diamond-drilled minute markers have been used for nearly 100 years. The dauphine fingers are additionally traditional. If every thing sounds conventional, the curveball is available in with anthracite-colored {hardware}. I’m nonetheless unsure if that is higher than polished indexes, however I suppose it brings a contemporary look to a extremely conventional visage. When mixed with the rose opaline dial, although, it’s a reasonably image.
The 30‑255 PS inside
Fortunately, the Calatrava 6196P has a hand-wound motion. The 30-255 PS is a contemporary gem with a frequency of 28,800vph and 65 hours of energy reserve. The motion is seen through a sapphire show again and reveals off Côtes de Genève ending and plentiful anglage. Is the motion as lovely as older Patek calibers with their positive bridges? No, but it surely’s good so far as fashionable calibers go. Additionally, when in comparison with the outdated 5196, at the very least it suits the case.
The strap and buckle are beautiful touches
Some could decry the shortage of an overwrought folding buckle, however I’m happy that Patek caught with a platinum pin buckle and brown alligator strap for the Calatrava 6196P. For a easy gown watch, there’s no have to tart issues up with a great deal of steel.
Following the custom of platinum Patek references since 1999, the model determined so as to add a small diamond on the mid-case. It sits between the lugs on the 6 o’clock aspect. Is that this one thing I’d pay for as an possibility? Under no circumstances, and I’m wondering how a lot it added to the value.
Horny on the wrist
It’s onerous to make a cultured gown watch. First rate gown watches are plentiful, however actually nice ones are uncommon. The Calatrava 6196P continues to be a contact giant in my ebook, but it surely’s a severe looker. The dial has sufficient element to fill the true property, and the case sits properly on the wrist. I additionally really feel that the dial coloration is on course. Plus, this watch can simply play in a proper surroundings but in addition appears to be like good towards denim. It’s a winner.
Last ideas on the Calatrava 6196P
If it feels like I’ve been robust on the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P, it’s as a result of I need the model to make gloriously lovely and easy gown watches once more. This watch is so rattling shut, and it most likely is ideal for somebody with a bigger wrist. For me, although, I’d prefer to see it a millimeter or two smaller and with a bigger crown. Then once more, I’d fortunately put on one in every of these with out remorse. At €46,800, although, this watch is a really dear enterprise. Then once more, it’s a Patek Philippe and sure a future traditional.
