The Complete History of the Rolex Milgauss

The Milgauss is an uncommon mannequin in Rolex’s lineup and positively a distinct segment providing, typically labeled as a look ahead to scientists. It didn’t have the cool issue of racecars, jets, and James Bond, and, like many fashions of their early years, tended to sit down on cabinets, attracting scant curiosity. The Daytona was additionally a moderately laborious vendor early on, in order that’s not an indictment of the mannequin itself, however it did lack a extra mainstream viewers given its distinctive focus. The Milgauss was designed within the Nineteen Fifties in partnership with CERN (Conseil Européen pour la Recherche Nucléaire) to withstand magnetic fields of as much as 1,000 gauss. Surpassing most watches of the time with their restricted 50 gauss magnetic resistance, the Milgauss identify is a play on the French phrase mille, for thousand, and gauss from Carl Friedrich Gauss, the German physicist and geomagnetism scholar (amongst different disciplines).

1954-1957 – The proof of Idea, the Rolex Milgauss 6543

The primary Milgauss, like many early Rolex fashions, was all about discovering its footing and testing the waters in a prototype-like method. Manufacturing solely lasted for a handful of years, and most dependable sources point out that the manufacturing numbers are someplace between 75 and 200 examples at most. The Milgauss 6543 is extra of a proof of idea than a real manufacturing mannequin, and discovering an early Milgauss 6543 in its unique situation is nearly unattainable. Solely a handful of fashions have surfaced, resembling this instance bought by Christie’s in 2017. There have been bizarre anomalies, resembling a lug width someplace between 19mm and 20mm (roughly 19.7mm), which dominated out normal Oyster bracelets on the time. 

Nonetheless, it was nonetheless a mature Rolex with a chronometer score utilizing the automated calibre 1080 and a comfortable iron Faraday cage for its aforementioned anti-magnetic score of 1,000 gauss. On this early mannequin, it was extra of an iron band than a container seen in subsequent fashions. Calibre 1080 was primarily based on the primary in-house Rolex calibre 1030 from 1950, and each beat at 18,000vph. The case was 38mm with an acrylic crystal, and it curiously featured an early black rotating Submariner bezel. Once more, discovering its legs.

Picture by Christie’s

Picture by Christie’s

The black dial had a honeycomb sample that was extra than simply cool trying – it was woven with steel for extra magnetic resistance. The spherical indices appeared to have radium lume, however have been really void of lume, and the seconds hand was straight with a tiny counterweight – the seconds hand would alternate between straight and a lightning bolt form all through the Milgauss’ life, most notably with the fashionable references. The Dauphine palms did have lume inserts, and there have been three faceted, triangular indices at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock that carried ahead to the subsequent reference together with the honeycomb dial. A steel bracelet was once more not supplied on the 6543, given the odd lug width.

CERN (Conseil Européen pour la Recherche Nucléaire)

The European particle physics laboratory in Geneva partnered with Rolex within the Nineteen Fifties after quantum physicists have been annoyed that robust magnetic fields both disrupted or all however ruined their mechanical watches. The unique Milgauss was meant to deal with the problem, and its 1,000 gauss anti-magnetic resistance handily did the job. This partnership continues at present with varied initiatives, and Rolex sponsored the everlasting Universe of Particles exhibition on the Globe of Science and Innovation constructing. CERN is greatest identified for the Giant Hadron Collider (the world’s largest particle accelerator) and its contribution to the event of the World Extensive Internet.

Giant Hadron Collider

CERN’s Giant Hadron Collider was a collaboration of over 100 international locations and 10,000 scientists, all combining data and sources to finally perceive the constructing blocks of the universe. How precisely is that this accomplished? In layman’s phrases, particles are accelerated to virtually the pace of sunshine round a large 27-kilometre round tunnel by way of superconducting magnets, particularly protons and ions, after which intentionally smashed collectively. This, in idea, paints an image of circumstances simply after the Huge Bang and in addition creates new particles to review. In 2012, for instance, the Higgs boson particle was found, offering mass to different particles.

It grew to become operational in September 2008, and whereas it isn’t the one particle accelerator on the planet, it’s the largest, highest-energy and most superior. Given using excessive magnetism for such a mission (and lots of others), the Milgauss is a perfect look ahead to CERN scientists.

1956-1960 – The Rolex Milgauss 6541

The following Milgauss, reference 6541, is mostly thought of the primary correct manufacturing mannequin, and it adopted extra acquainted design components of the sequence. It was, nevertheless, once more produced in very small numbers, with just about all case numbers beginning with 412. Three huge differentiators from the reference 6543 have been a metal Oyster bracelet, a brand new and unique bezel insert and a lightning bolt seconds hand, which grew to become a signature aspect of recent Milgauss references. Calibre 1080 remained, together with the black metal-weaved dial. The brand new bezel insert had six sections to operate as a stopwatch of types for scientific functions. Its general usefulness was maybe debatable, however it introduced a brand new look and character to the Milgauss.

Curiously (and perhaps a little bit of a knock to the brand new bezel), the American variant got here with a non-rotating clean metal bezel, which resulted in two distinctive ref. 6541 fashions. Earlier than 6541 manufacturing led to 1960, a number of different anti-magnetic watches had hit the market, together with the Omega Railmaster, IWC Ingenieur, Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic and Patek Philippe ref. 3417.

Though this wasn’t a preferred mannequin with the Submariner, Explorer, GMT-Grasp and Datejust capturing extra consideration, Rolex gave the Milgauss to racecar drivers within the Nineteen Fifties and properly into the Nineteen Sixties, together with NASCAR and Daytona winners. Daytona 500 winner Glen Roberts was even featured in a Milgauss commercial in 1962. Each the 6543 and 6541 are exceptionally uncommon at present and nigh unattainable to search out – a very properly preserved instance of Milgauss 6451 just lately bought for USD2.5 million at public sale, though this doesn’t characterize the market (the client is meant to be Rolex itself).

1960-1988 – The long-lived Rolex Milgauss 1019

The Milgauss reference 1019 was produced for nearly 30 years and is, by far, the longest-running Milgauss and among the many longest-running Rolex references typically. Many modifications got here with its debut, beginning with calibre 1580. The frequency elevated to 19,800vph with a 48-hour energy reserve, and this computerized Rolex motion was unique to ref. 1019. The case remained at 38mm in diameter and water resistance was formally rated at 50 metres. The rotating timing bezel was dropped for a clean metal counterpart, not in contrast to the American 6541, and the dial often got here in vertically brushed silver or matte black with out the steel weave honeycomb sample.

The fake lume round indices and utilized triangular counterparts at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock have been changed with extra normal (for Rolex) utilized indices with tritium suggestions, signified by T-SWISS-T on the backside of the dial. Dial textual content had been constant because the first 6543 with an utilized coronet, ROLEX with OYSTER PERPETUAL beneath and MILGAUSS in purple underneath that. SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED was printed in two strains above 6 o’clock. The straight seconds hand had a purple arrowhead tip, whereas the acquainted (form of) Dauphine-style palms carried over, now with flat ends.

Refined Variances

Though the 1019 remained pretty steady all through its 28-year run, many refined dial variances are notable. Beginning with the minutes/seconds observe, it went from a railroad observe with 5 marks between indices to a extra detailed half-hash mark design with a staggered sequence of lengthy and quick (half) marks offering ten marks between indices. Earliest fashions, nevertheless, had much more detailed 1/5 second marks and are predictably extra collectible at present. Early fashions additionally had sq. lume plots on the ends of indices, whereas spherical lume ultimately grew to become normal. The palms have been polished with a central ridge for the primary decade of 1019 manufacturing, shifting to a flat brushed model in 1970, though there was a mixture of the 2 types for a while, and all had tritium inserts.

“CERN dials” have been silver ones with out lume, eradicating all radioactive tritium from the dial at CERN’s request, leaving the palms with black enamel inserts. Then there’s the uncommon black dial fashions with a silver outer observe and print (most black dials had white print). Each CERN and black/silver dials are very collectable (and costly) at present. A mix of uncommon and early options, like a black dial with silver print and sq. lume plots, is what collectors dream of. And at last, ROLEX was printed smaller on early 1019 dials by way of the late Nineteen Sixties, whereas SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED curiously acquired smaller as ROLEX then acquired bigger.

It wasn’t too unusual for Milgauss fashions to sit down on retailer cabinets for a decade, so it was finally discontinued in 1988 as Rolex targeted on extra fashionable fashions. Much like the Air-King, it will make a triumphant return after a seemingly everlasting demise. In contrast to the Air-King, nevertheless, it took virtually 20 years to resurface in comparison with only a couple with the extra entry-level piece (that was not so “entry degree” with its return).

2007-2023 – The Return and the tip, the Rolex Milgauss 116400

Just like the reborn Air-King, the Milgauss returned as a special and extra mature mannequin, preserving sufficient particular options to remind you that it was, certainly, nonetheless a Milgauss. Nonetheless, the Air-King solely took a quick hiatus, whereas the Milgauss disappeared for 19 years, returning because the CERN Giant Hadron Collider was completed (not but “turned on”). It may be concluded that such a monumental scientific achievement by a historic Rolex (Milgauss) accomplice impressed the mannequin’s return. Aesthetic modifications have been instantly clear, beginning with the bigger 40mm case (the fastened clean bezel continued) on an Oyster bracelet. There have been two dial color choices at launch, black and white, however a 3rd choice was an “anniversary” black dial with a green-tinted sapphire crystal (ref. 116400GV), generally known as Glace Verte or inexperienced glass. This crystal was a primary for Rolex and was by no means repeated with one other mannequin. An “electrical blue” or Z-Blue sunburst dial (coated in zirconium) joined the gathering in 2014 with the green-tinted sapphire crystal. The inexperienced tinting course of is alleged to be probably the most tough aesthetic processes Rolex has ever tried.

A significant dial characteristic of ref. 116400 was the return of the lightning bolt seconds hand, final seen on ref. 6541 in 1960. It was orange on all dial variances, whereas that color performed different roles on dial components, relying on the dial color itself. The white dial had orange lume indices, whereas the black dial had sq. orange lume marks simply after the indices. The blue dial merely had orange Arabic numerals on the minute/seconds observe (similar because the white dial). The black dial didn’t (but) have Arabic numerals on the outer observe (changed by the sq. orange marks), and the observe itself was white. MILGAUSS was printed in orange on all dials, not purple. Though there was an inconsistency in colors on the dial variants, the general design and dial layouts have been per the brand new Milgauss aesthetic. There was merely no mistaking any Milgauss variant for one more mannequin. Not lengthy after the Z-Blue variant debuted in 2014, all clear crystal fashions have been discontinued with the blue and black dials remaining underneath inexperienced crystals (the white dial disappeared fully).

A observe on the black dial – it advanced to be extra in step with the opposite variants with orange Arabic numerals across the perimeter and yellow(ish) lume on the utilized indices at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock.

Calibre 3131

The anti-magnetic comfortable iron cage remained shrouded round Rolex’s in-house computerized, however calibre 3131 additionally options anti-magnetic elements of its personal. For starters, there’s the proprietary, paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring comprised of niobium and zirconium, together with an anti-magnetic, amorphous nickel-phosphorus escapement. The brand new motion had 31 jewels, beat at a better 28,800vph (4Hz) – the fashionable Rolex normal – and got here with a 48-hour energy reserve, unchanged from the older calibre 1580 in ref. 1019. It was an authorized chronometer, however by no means featured the newest Chronergy escapement or boasted a Superlative Chronometer score of +/-2 seconds per day.

The reborn Milgauss was considerably uncommon in the truth that it remained just about unchanged throughout its 15+ 12 months run with the identical 3131 motion, not in contrast to the prior ref. 1019 with Cailbre 1580. Not uncared for per se, however it definitely obtained much less consideration from Rolex than different outstanding fashions, maybe because of its extra particular function as a “scientist’s watch” and being much less of a mainstream mannequin. It was (as soon as once more) discontinued in early 2023.

Collectors

Much like the Daytona, the Milgauss was unpopular for a lot of its life, however now instructions critical consideration from collectors. The truth that it’s just lately discontinued (at the least for now) naturally makes it extra fascinating. Early 6543 and 6541 fashions typically fall out of attain of collectors as they’re so uncommon at present with seven-figure costs hooked up. As talked about in 2023, a ref. 6541 bought at Phillips public sale for CHF 2.24 million, which was a considerable document for the mannequin. The final Milgauss document was in 2013 for CHF 317,000, so you possibly can see the place issues stand at present. That stated, mere mortals can nonetheless afford many Milgauss fashions as ref. 1019 and ref. 116400/116400GV had sizeable runs. A pleasant white dial ref. 116400 with clear crystal may be discovered for round USD 7,500, whereas a black dial counterpart with sq. outer marks (no Arabic numerals) jumps a bit to USD 8,000. Not dangerous for a latest Milgauss that’s extra fascinating aesthetically than a Datejust or Explorer, to not point out that the final retail worth was round USD 9,100.

Bounce again in time to ref. 1019 and issues definitely change, though it had a for much longer run. Costs begin between USD 25,000 and 30,000 for good examples, however can shortly double for extra fascinating fashions or these in pristine situation. That’s definitely not outrageous for a collectible Rolex, however it’s nonetheless critical cash. The Milgauss is an uncommon and area of interest Rolex that served a selected function, not in contrast to the Submariner or Explorer, however a “look ahead to scientists” by no means fairly resonated like a diver or journey watch. Curiously, it was discontinued for a second time when a mannequin just like the Air-King had thrived in its second life. Time will inform if a 3rd comeback is within the playing cards.

Nonetheless, contemplating the newest improvements in watchmaking, resembling silicon elements, together with the presumably highly-antimagnetic Rolex Dynapulse escapement, and the METAS certification (with the necessity to go a 15,000 gauss take a look at), the very relevance of the watch is questionable. A watch named Milgauss, or 1,000 gauss, has change into fully out of date within the present state of the trade. That being stated, we might see the idea of the scientific watch coming again – presumably a very amagnetic watch, not solely proof against a sure degree of magnetism, however unaffected by magnetic fields… It could, nevertheless, want one other identify. Or ought to it preserve it for romantic functions?