Try our newest merchandise
In true Watches and Wonders custom, Patek Philippe graced us with a string of latest introductions. The Genevan model unveiled 14 new wrist watches and a novel desk clock this yr. Amongst them, there are all the time standouts. The large launch for this yr was not a extremely difficult timepiece or a brand new addition to the Nautilus or Aquanaut line-up. Even the brand new, smaller Cubitus fashions weren’t the actual discuss of the city for Patek. It was all concerning the sensible new Calatrava 6196P. However within the shadow of that watch, Patek Philippe launched one other Calatrava. The brand new Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G in white gold is the third mannequin in a selected collection of Calatrava fashions that was first launched three years in the past. Let’s take a better take a look at the watch and talk about its relevance.
In 2022, I reported on the discharge of the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Journey Time Ref. 5326G and Calatrava Ref. 5226G. Again then, I known as them showstoppers. They turned out to be simply that for multiple cause. The 2 Calatrava fashions offered a brand new aesthetic that could possibly be labeled extra informal and adventurous. The opinions on them had been as divisive as they had been robust. Above all, it appeared such as you wanted to be a lover or a hater, no matter why. However as all the time, there’s a nuance behind the robust opinions. It turns into apparent with the discharge of the brand new Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G. Three years after the discharge of the primary two fashions, the brand new watch completely exhibits that the aesthetic is right here to remain. However let’s take a look at the watch in a broader context of the Calatrava line-up.
The Story of the Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G
Earlier than we soar into the broader context, Nacho wrote the introduction article for the Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G. Within the article, he defined the main points of the watch, so if you wish to learn extra about that, please try his piece. Briefly, the brand new 41mm white gold mannequin presents a brand new caliber that was in growth for 5 years. First, the brand new caliber 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J has a 192-hour energy reserve. It stems from new efficiency-focused improvements delivered to life via a double-barrel development and the Pulsomax escapement with Silinvar escape-wheel and lever. In consequence, the watch has an 8-day energy reserve with a ninth further ‘reserve’ day to wind the watch.
Secondly, the dial that signifies the facility reserve and the calendar capabilities incorporates a vertical structure. It provides the watch a clear aesthetic and makes it very simple to learn. The facility reserve indicator is positioned on the higher half of the dial. It shows the 8-day energy reserve properly, and the additional ninth day will get a crimson marker, warning the wearer to wind the watch.
On the decrease half of the dial, you will see that a subdial that shows the subsidiary seconds and the calendar capabilities. The smaller of the 2 arms signifies the seconds, whereas the bigger signifies the date. A small built-in aperture shows the day of the week.
We’ve seen fairly a little bit of this intelligent integration of components from Patek Philippe. An ideal instance is the reference 5236 with its in-line perpetual calendar. Final yr, Patek offered the platinum model of that watch with a surprising salmon-colored dial that was Thomas’s stand-out launch of the model’s introduction in 2024. Moreover, the sensible 5320 additionally presents an analogous structure. That exact launch has extra in frequent with the Calatrava 8-Day, as we’ll discover out later.
The Calatrava 8-Day ref. 5328G as a part of the Calatrava line-up
However first, let’s create some context. At present, Patek’s Calatrava assortment consists of 14 totally different fashions. However these 14 fashions are unfold out over eight references, of which two are women’ references and one is the wildly artistic ref. 5088, which is hardly a daily reference. This leaves 5 gents’s references that you possibly can divide into three traditional silhouettes and two extra informal references. The previous consists of the classically styled 39mm ref. 5227, the attribute ref. 6119 with its hobnail bezel, and the model new ref. 6196 that Mike wrote about. The extra informal Calatrava references are the 4 sporty ref. 6007 fashions that had been launched in 2023. Lastly, the ref. 5226 from 2022 is basically the time and date model of the ref. 5326 that it was launched with, and the brand new ref. 5328 from this text.
The Patek Philippe Calatava Annual Calendar Journey Time ref. 5326G (left) and Calatrava ref. 5226G (proper)
However these two are usually not a part of the Calatrava line-up. As most of you’ll know, Patek Philippe has created the Problems and Grand Problems collection for watches with technically excellent calibers, whatever the hyperlink to any of its primary collections. That’s why the ref. 5326 and ref. 5328 are a part of that collection fairly than the Calatrava line-up regardless of the model calling them Calatrava fashions.
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Journey Time ref. 5524G
One other instance is the Calatrava Pilot Journey Time ref. 5524 and Journey Time Chronograph ref. 5924 fashions, which don’t actually have a primary counterpart within the Calatrava assortment. That additionally typically makes creating context for releases a bit tougher. However as we’ll uncover, that’s essential to understanding the ref. 5328 and its two siblings.
The traits of the Calatrava 8-Day ref. 5328G in its siblings
The connection between these three fashions is simple to make. All three characteristic an analogous round-shaped white gold case. The design incorporates a barely chamfered bezel and a surprising hobnail sample round its whole flank. The result’s a case firmly rooted up to now however feels modern and related. All three fashions mix that case with a equally textured dial. The inspirational reference for the feel of the 2 charcoal-gray dial fashions launched in 2022 was the traditional physique of a photograph digital camera. Whether or not that provides it further depth for you or not—for me it does because it jogs my memory of my father’s traditional Minolta digital camera he took photos with throughout our household holidays— it provides an attention-grabbing texture to the dials.
For the brand new ref. 5328, that reference considerably fades due to the dial’s blue coloration. However I do benefit from the texture no matter its tone. It proves to be an attention-grabbing canvas for the numerals on the dial. The utilized white gold Arabic numerals are full of white lume on the brand new Calatrava 8-Day. It’s in keeping with the general blue and white coloration scheme of the dial. For the earlier fashions, it was a mix of darkish grey and beige for a extra classic total vibe. Each work effectively, in my view.
The Patek Philippe ref. 5172G
The connection runs deeper than it appears at first
However let’s give attention to the utilized numerals and the syringe-style arms as a result of that’s the place it will get attention-grabbing. If you understand the Patek Philippe assortment, you acknowledge the fashion as a result of we see it used on extra classically styled fashions as effectively. An ideal instance is the sensible white gold ref. 5172 Chronograph, which is on the market with both a blue dial or a surprising salmon dial. As you possibly can see, there’s a clear kinship between these chronographs and the Calatrava fashions.
The Patek Philippe ref. 5320G Perpetual Calendar
However that’s not the place it ends. Keep in mind I discussed the ref. 5320G with its in-line perpetual calendar? It additionally makes use of among the aforementioned design components. These options tie all these fashions collectively, making them a household whatever the dial execution.
The Patek Philippe ref. 5373P left-handed chronograph
Earlier than transferring on, I have to point out another mannequin. As a result of the destro chronograph ref. 5373 in platinum, which was unveiled in October 2022, can also be one with comparable design traits. Over time, it has change into a recognizable fashion for the model that isn’t simply current within the present assortment. The fashion of the numerals goes again to the Nineteen Forties, with the model’s traditional chronographs, such because the ref. 130, its successor, the ref. 530, and the ref. 1579 amongst others. We additionally see syringe-style arms used for the ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi.”
The legendary ref. 1591 – Picture: John Goldberger
Nevertheless, the mix of numerals and syringe-style arms is traditionally linked to the well-known Patek Philippe ref. 1591. This water resistant perpetual calendar with luminous dial and arms was the direct inspiration for the ref. 5320 talked about above. It laid the inspiration for in the present day’s watches on this fashion.
Again to the Calatrava 8-Day ref. 5328
So, the place does this go away the brand new Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day ref. 5328? First, it’s nice to see that the seems of the much-debated Calatrava fashions run rather a lot deeper than plenty of the dialogue in 2022 centered on. I used to be already a fan of the Calatrava ref. 5226 and the Calatrava Annual Calendar Journey Time ref. 5326 from 2022. Seeing this new Calatrava 8-Day ref. 5328 was a terrific reminder of how a lot I take pleasure in all three of those fashions. On high of that, it was eye-opening to see that the design is so well-rooted within the model’s fashion, making it simple to understand these Calatravas much more.
On the wrist, the fashion of the Calatrava 8-Day interprets right into a watch that holds the center between its siblings and the ref. 5172 Chronograph. The blue and white mixture takes it out of the extra adventurous fashion and provides it a barely extra fashionable, much more formal total presence. With its 41mm case that’s simply 10.52mm thick, it’s a pleasure to put on. On high of that, realizing that this watch is that slim with a calendar complication and is simple to learn due to its vertical structure makes this a standout for me on this yr’s releases.
Closing ideas on the Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day ref. 5328G
This skinny profile additionally jogged my memory of its connection to the Calatrava ref. 6119. They share the hobnail sample regardless of being fully totally different watches. As a result of that’s what this perception boils all the way down to. I really like the extra adventurous fashion of the three Calatrava fashions, however loads of folks don’t. Whether or not you don’t just like the dial texture otherwise you don’t like the general, extra adventurous fashion of those references, that’s completely honest. Nevertheless, it’s good to see that their fashion is deeply rooted within the model’s assortment by making a little bit of context. The watches then make much more sense.
The much-praised Calatrava ref. 6196P
Now, you possibly can debate whether or not these three fashions are correct Calatrava fashions. However to me, they’re. And that’s primarily based on the truth that they’ve an aesthetic reference to different fashions. However possibly much more essential is that Patek Philippe has created a fluidity in its assortment that enables the model to place fully totally different designs within the Calatrava collection. Typically, it’s tougher to understand why the model mixes issues up so drastically with the totally different Calatrava fashions.
As a former model strategist, I typically have problem following what Patek Philippe bases a few of its selections on. However as a fan of the model’s watches, I see it result in nice range with classics like the favored Calatrava ref. 6196P and extra modern fashions like this Calatrava 8-Day ref. 5328G is commendable. Ultimately, that’s what issues essentially the most to me: discovering pleasure inside a collection. And that’s precisely what I discover with the Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day ref. 5328G.
