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Writing and speaking about watches is loads of enjoyable, however there are occasions when it’s a chore. Penning immediately’s article exemplifies the form of “work” I get pleasure from. You see, Parmigiani is one in all my favourite manufacturers, fingers down, and I’m all the time up for overlaying a brand new launch. Right now, I’ll go a number of steps higher than that as a result of we’re overlaying the model’s full slate of releases from Watches and Wonders 2025.
In late 2023, quickly after transferring to London, I had the chance to attend a Parmigiani Fleurier occasion. I had seen and browse in regards to the model’s watches however had by no means tried one on or seen one within the flesh. Clearly, that modified, and with it, so did my most-wanted checklist.
What makes Parmigiani so good?
With so many tempting watches available on the market immediately, what separates Parmigiani from the remainder? For me, it comes right down to supremely elegant instances with exceptional ending. Then, there are the unimaginable bracelets that really feel skinny, but robust, with wonderful articulation. And the actions? Vaucher, the corporate’s in-house motion division, makes attractive calibers from easy automatics to extremely difficult perpetual calendars. Nonetheless, one thing that struck me at this yr’s Watches and Wonders present was the model’s newfound mastery of colour. We’ll see this on repeat as we stroll by the litany of recent fashions. Except for one piece, each reference on this article was launched at Watches and Wonders 2025. I selected to incorporate a bonus watch as a result of it’s at the moment sitting at primary on my “most fascinating” checklist.
L’Armoriale Répétition Minute Mystérieuse
Parmigiani held a whirlwind “touch-and-feel” session in Geneva with nearly all its new items. The exceptions have been two items distinctive. The L’Armoriale Répétition Minute Mystérieuse debuted in two colours for a pair of fortunate individuals. What made these 41.6mm white gold minute repeaters so distinctive is that the dial is on the again facet of the case. The entrance is hand-guilloché with a pine cone motif and translucent Grand Feu enameling in both Desert Rose or Fjord Blue.
Engraving work is noticeable on the case flanks and evokes Doric columns. A sliding lever on the left facet of the case prompts the minute repeater. With the extremely detailed entrance cowl and a visual crown and lever, I assumed this was a hunter case watch. How mistaken I used to be!
Surprisingly, the reverse shows time utilizing two rose gold fingers in appropriately formed, “H” and “M” kinds. A eager eye will word that the underlying dial is manufactured from stone. On this case, it’s Guatemalan white jade. The L’Armoriale Répétition Minute Mystérieuse fashions use the in-house PF355, a handbook winding motion with 72 hours of energy reserve and 392 parts. The cathedral gongs include two hammers and are tuned to ship an enduring chime. Although we can’t see the motion, relaxation assured that it’s extremely completed with perlage, anglage, and Côtes de Genève.
The Toric Quantieme Perpetuel
Just lately, I’ve declared {that a} perpetual calendar strikes me as one of many much less helpful issues. The Parmigiani Toric Quantieme Perpetuel throws a monkey wrench in my principle. The reason being easy, actually. These pretty 40.6mm by 10.9mm items in 18K rose gold or 950 platinum ship all the data the complication affords in a clear, elegant method. Two easy subdials and a set of centrally mounted hour and minute fingers maintain the whole lot.
Along with a fantastically clear idea, the Toric blends vivid colour with valuable metals and precision ending. The platinum mannequin has a surprising morning blue 18K white gold dial, whereas the rose gold version makes use of the identical materials all through the design. Each watches have been drop-dead attractive in particular person, with particular marks for the blue variant.
The show case again reveals a murals within the handbook winding PF733 caliber. It’s primarily crafted in 18K gold and options Côtes de Fleurier ending on the principle plates. Every metal bridge has hand anglage. Sixty hours of energy reserve is useful, however three straightforward pushers on the case facet facilitate straightforward calendar setting. Every reference is proscribed to simply 50 items. Pricing is on the unique facet at CHF 85,000 for the gold mannequin and CHF 92,000 for the platinum reference.
The Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante
We kick off the parade of recent Tonda releases with the Verzasca inexperienced GMT Rattrapante. This 40mm by 10.7mm watch is manufactured from chrome steel and encompasses a ridged platinum bezel. Like on the Toric, the dial colour is beautiful in particular person and represents the primary replace for the reason that authentic Milano blue fashions debuted in 2022. The small print not often cease with Parmigiani, exemplified by a hand-guilloché Grain d’Orge dial and 18K rhodium-plated indices. Plus, the model’s splendidly comfy and completely completed bracelet is included.
My colleague Thomas lined this watch throughout Watches and Wonders; we really feel equally in regards to the piece. He talked about his regular choice for easy base fashions. I concur as a result of issues usually add litter, ruining an in any other case harmonious design. The Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante avoids this with an exceedingly intelligent motion. The PF051 micro-rotor automated is straightforward but ingenious. The decrease left pusher advances the rhodium-plated 18K hour hand to the native time zone. An 18K rose gold hand stays on residence time. When returning residence, a fast press of the gold monopusher on the crown returns the native hand to residence time. Fancy a swim whereas touring? This Tonda has a helpful depth score of 60 meters. For CHF 28,700, this strikes me as probably the most enticing luxurious GMT available on the market.
The Tonda PF Chronograph No Date 40mm
Till now, trendy Parmigiani chronographs have been bigger than 40mm. The brand new Tonda PF Chronograph No Date 40mm adjustments this with a smaller case and removing of the date perform. For purists, this already seems like a recipe for fulfillment. Fortunately, the excellent news continues with a case thickness of simply 12.72mm and one other pretty dial colour — mineral blue. The chrome steel chronograph has a platinum bezel, hand-guilloché dial, and 18K rhodium-plated dial {hardware}. This mannequin is accessible with a bracelet outfitted with a hid folding clasp.
I used to be capable of deal with the brand new 40mm chronograph and might verify that it matches fantastically. The motion can be a step above most inside the aggressive set. It makes use of the model’s COSC-certified PF070 built-in automated with 65 hours of energy reserve. It has a 30-minute subdial, working seconds, and a 12-hour counter. My favourite element, nonetheless, is the high-beat frequency of 36,000vph. To assist justify the watch’s CHF 31,500 price ticket, Parmigiani has engineered this watch with a depth score of 100 meters.
The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Extremely-Cermet
Parmigiani has taken a special strategy with the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Extremely-Cermet fashions. As an alternative of metal or valuable metals, these new items are made totally of Extremely-Cermet, a mixture of ceramic and metallic. Sure, this consists of the case, bezel, pushers, crown, and buckle. The aerospace materials has properties from every ingredient, together with the ceramic’s hardness and the metallic’s lightness. Moreover, the blackish floor seems in polished and brushed kinds.
Two 42.5mm by 13.3 fashions, London Gray and Milano Blue, have been launched at Watches and Wonders to nice pleasure. In spite of everything, Parmigiani has largely averted making sportier items. Nonetheless, the eye to element was evident throughout our session. As a result of these items are made for an lively life-style, the black-coated 18K fingers and indices include luminous materials. Advantageous-grained vertical stain ending is current on every dial. Whereas these watches have been a bit too giant for my wrist, I hope the model continues to develop Extremely-Cermet and that it turns into out there in extra fashions.
Just like the Chronograph 40mm, the PF Sport Chronograph Extremely-Cermet references use the high-beat PF070 automated. The 22K gold rotor provides a cultured dose of distinction and is seen by a sapphire show case again. As soon as once more, the watches have a water resistance score of 100 meters and are fitted with appropriately sturdy rubber straps and Extremely-Cermet pin buckles. Every colour is priced at CHF 39,900.
Tonda PF Skeleton
Judging from the chatter within the busy press convention room, the GMT Rattrapante and the Tonda PF Skeleton garnered probably the most reward. Parmigiani has produced this reference utilizing completely different colours and case supplies. The newest restricted version of fifty items is housed in a 40mm by 8.5mm chrome steel case with a platinum bezel. Slate inexperienced is used on the open-worked dial and for key motion parts.
The model sought to boost legibility by utilizing raised rhodium-plated 18K gold indices and skeletonized fingers. Ending can be on present with hand anglage on many satin-finished open-worked bridges. An in-house PF777 automated with a 22K white gold rotor beats away at a frequency of 28,800vph. Specs together with 60 hours of energy reserve and a depth score of 100 meters enable this haute horlogerie instance to behave as a each day watch. At CHF 65,000, it received’t be a typical sight, however it is going to be a beautiful one.
The Tonda PF 36mm Automated Stone Blue
The final Parmigiani on our recap of all of the Watches and Wonders novelties wasn’t really a brand new launch. The Tonda PF 36mm Automated Stone Blue was launched a month earlier than the occasion. Nonetheless, it was the primary time many people had seen it reside. I’ve lusted after a 36mm Tonda PF since late 2023, however I’ve fallen head over heels for the brand new Stone Blue dial. The colour is wonderful!
Every part one would anticipate from a Parmigiani is on this chrome steel watch, together with a hand-guilloché dial, platinum bezel, and rhodium-plated 18K fingers and indices. Let’s not overlook the most effective bracelet on the luxurious watch market that wraps fantastically across the wrist. When mixed with the 8.6 mm-thick Tonda PF case, it’s magical. It merely seems like a watch that by no means would or ought to go away the arm.
The PF770 automated motion isn’t any slouch both. It’s adjusted to 5 positions, runs at 28,800vph, and has an influence reserve of 60 hours. The 22K rotor combines with Côtes de Genève ending, guaranteeing a message of consideration to ending that applies to its most inexpensive items. It’s additionally made for fixed use with a depth score of 100 meters. Sure, I’ll personal one in all these sooner or later. I simply want to seek out CHF 21,400!
The very best set of releases in Geneva?
Watches and Wonders 2025 was considerably higher than 2024. There have been vital releases from many firms that weren’t nearly colour variants. Nonetheless, one model caught (and stored) my consideration greater than every other. Parmigiani introduced lots of recent watches to Geneva, and I wrestle to call a foul one. All have been fantastically completed, well-sized, and got here in attractively completely different colours. Parmigiani has reinvented itself within the elegant however sporty watch class over the previous 5 years. The model is extremely aggressive now, making a few of the finest watches out there. When you haven’t tried one on not too long ago, I extremely suggest visiting a certified vendor and doing so. You’ll be pleasantly stunned.
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