The Time+Tide Team picks their favourite lots from Geneva’s stacked 2025 watch auction season

Time+Tide

Editor’s Notice: Usually, we wish to dedicate a single article to every main watch public sale of the yr, however there’s so many auctions gearing as much as happen in Geneva proper now they usually’re all chock-full of wonderful watches – so we thought we’d do a mega-round-up and decide our favorite heaps from all of the completely different auctions, together with Phillips “The Geneva Watch Public sale: XXI”, Antiquorum’s “Necessary Trendy & Classic Timepieces”, Christie’s “Uncommon Watches, That includes Tales in Time: A Assortment of Distinctive Watches” and extra. Dig in, it is a lengthy one…

Patek Philippe ref. 3974 (Lot 103, Phillips)

At any time when we’re set the duty of selecting favourites from public sale catalogues, I at all times do my finest to have one from the massive field manufacturers and one from the independents. This is actually because I can by no means decide between the 2, and I believe it’s unfair to try to place one above the opposite. This time, I used to be break up between two watches in every class, and as a substitute of going for the Rolex ref. 6062 (my dream watch) that can be up at Phillips, I needed to go together with this attractive Patek 3974.

Not solely does this watch symbolize the head of neo-vintage, serial watchmaking, however this is without doubt one of the finest examples you discover, partly due to the extremely sought-after JHP (Jean-Pierre Hagmann) stamp discovered on the case. The late Mr. Hagmann was a grasp case maker and one of many few individuals on the planet who knew the secrets and techniques of making actually distinctive repeater instances. And so, while you mix the Patek Philippe perpetual calendar minute repeater together with his final stage of expertise, you’ve got a watch that’s unattainable to flick previous within the catalogue.

The watch is a end result of all the things Patek stood for on this liminal interval of watchmaking we’ve got dubbed neo-vintage, with one of the best of the traditional watchmaking requirements nonetheless at play, whereas supplies and mechanisms have been getting modernised into one thing we’d recognise immediately. If all that doesn’t get you excited a few watch, I’m afraid nothing will. – Russell Sheldrake

F.P. Journe Ruthenium Set 5/99 (Tons 74-79, Christie’s)

Watch units are at all times considerably particular. It means you favored a sure watch or model a lot that you simply determined to buy a number of variations of it, all on the identical time. On this case, these 5 watches from F.P. Journe are a part of a collection of 99 units, from the early occasions when the watchmaker nonetheless used brass actions. All 5 fashions have been produced between 2001 and 2003, and the change to 18k gold actions occurred in 2004.

All watches share a 40mm platinum case, ruthenium-covered motion, and 18k gold ruthenium-covered dial. This offers them a definite monochromatic look, interrupted solely by the heated blue palms in his signature form. In fact, it might solely make sense to bid on the set as an entire, however the 5 watches are being bought as separate heaps. If I may get just one, I’d in all probability transfer in the direction of the Octa Jour / Nuit. This particular mannequin was solely ever out there as a part of the Ruthenium Assortment and by no means made into common manufacturing, thus including additional magic. – Pietro Pilla

Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing & PalanKing last prototype (Lot 15, Phillips)

One of the spectacular horological superlatives, which has additionally seen spirited competitors lately, is the title of the world’s thinnest mechanical watch. Up till final yr, nonetheless, it was a battle fought solely by established, moneyed manufacturers, specifically Bulgari, Piaget and Richard Mille. Konstantin Chaykin modified all that, with the impartial Russian watchmaker – who’s finest identified for his ‘Wristmon’ automata watches and had by no means dabbled within the discipline of ultra-thin watches beforehand – blowing the established gamers out of the water and securing the title with the ThinKing, which measures simply 1.65mm thick and weighs solely 13g with out its strap.

This public sale lot represents the ultimate prototype of the ThinKing, which is but to make it to manufacturing/market, making this not solely the primary instance out there to the general public but in addition a traditionally vital timepiece usually. It additionally comes with its ‘PalanKing’ carrying case. It’s really the PalanKing that helps the ThinKing obtain its mind-boggling thinness: the ThinKing lacks a crown, so you utilize the PalanKing (which has an automated motion and a standard crown) to each wind the ThinKing’s 32 hours of energy reserve and set the time. You possibly can really put on the ThinKing with the PalanKing, which has a mixed thickness of 5.4mm.

It’s an unconventional resolution to this completely unconventional discipline of watchmaking… However really, a part of what makes the ThinKing so spectacular is that it’s in any other case acquired a really standard, wearable type. It’s 40mm in diameter, constructed from titanium and has fairly regular lugs (though its strap can be spectacular, that includes metallic inserts to dissipate shocks). Aesthetically, it even nods to Chaykin’s Wristmons, with its two subdials and emblem organized right into a smiley face. This offers the ThinKing a playful levity that different title-holders have lacked. – Jamie Weiss

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronographe Retrograde ref. 270.2.69 (Lot 291, Antiquorum)

Whereas I do assume the trendy Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph is an outstanding watch, and its trendy motion is upgraded, the unique ’90s Reverso Chronographe Retrograde (of which it is a excellent instance) continues to be the king, in my view. Why? Properly, with my smaller wrist bias, the 42mm size of the case is far more compact than the beyond-49mm size of the Reverso Tribute Chronograph – far more fitted to my (give or take) 6.5-inch wrist.

It is usually a traditionally vital piece, restricted to 500 items, that alongside a restricted version set of fashions, debuted this complication inside the Reverso assortment for the primary time. This ushered in a brand new period for the Reverso, setting the stage for Jaeger-LeCoultre to mechanically elevate its most iconic mannequin with additional horological prowess. This watch, and its smaller dimension, however paired with the trendy variations’ extra attention-grabbing dials, the model would flip the at present nice Reverso Tribute Chronograph into god-tier in my e-book. – Zach Blass

Breguet ref. 3237 “Tuxedo” (Lot 83, Phillips)

If we begin speaking about iconic chronographs, the Breguet 3237 has to enter the dialog sooner or later, particularly between the extra elegant mentions. This explicit mannequin, regardless of its relatively classical look at first look, hides a stone dial in plain sight. The black onyx finds its place on the outer monitor, including a layer of sophistication to an already good watch. The silver prints on the black polished stone trace on the silver guilloché interior half, bringing collectively an enviable quadrant configuration.

Appears apart, that is certainly one of solely 5 identified examples on this configuration, so rarity must be taken under consideration as effectively. On the dial, the quantity “3537” is displayed, indicating that this watch is only one serial quantity earlier than a beforehand bought instance bearing the quantity “3538”. – Pietro Pilla

Cartier Paris Eight Days Tank Allongée (Lot 57, Sotheby’s)

Whereas I’ve a infamous mushy spot for Cartiers, particularly in white metals and elongated shapes, this was the primary time I noticed this particular mannequin. Presumably, between 11 and 13 examples in all metals have been produced, and that is the one identified instance in white gold from the unique Nineteen Thirties manufacturing. That point was a prolific period for Cartier, with a number of fashions showing for the primary time, however this very mannequin holds a particular place within the model’s historical past because it was the primary difficult Tank wristwatch.

The watch was exceptionally giant for the time, however it was essential to accommodate the 2 barrels of the LeCoultre cal. 124 provided by the European Watch & Clock Co. Regardless of being near 100 years previous, the case maintains its form and nonetheless exhibits completely different finishes and visual hallmarks. Sadly, the dial exhibits the indicators of the presence of Father Time, however given the origin and the historic significance, it’s undoubtedly one thing that may very well be ignored. – Pietro Pilla

Roger Smith Collection 1 (Lot 89, Phillips)

I may have gone for any variety of different indies for this second decide. There’s an unbelievable City Jurgensen with Derek Pratt’s pivoted detent escapement inside, there are a pair Grönefeld items which might be a tremendous addition to any assortment, however because the editorial group’s token Brit, I can’t get previous this Roger Smith Collection 1. (Though an honourable shout-out has to go to the Frodsham in the identical public sale.) This Collection 1 is, I believe, essentially the most completely distilled essence of what makes Roger such a tremendous watchmaker.

In a 38mm case, this time-only watch shows all the easiest abilities that Smith and his group are in a position to execute. The co-axial escapement retains this extremely effectively but refined completed motion ticking away, with two types of guilloche demonstrated on a dial that’s completely balanced with its outsized sub-seconds dial and classical rose gold palms pointing to the Roman numerals. An attention-grabbing reality about this watch is that this Collection 1 got here after the Collection 2, Smith’s tackle an influence reserve show watch. The rationale for that is that the unique Collection 1 was really rectangular in form, but had the identical options because the one we’ve got right here. Nevertheless, after Smith made “The GREAT Britain”, a time-only watch in platinum with a Union Jack engine-turned on the dial, calls began coming in for him to return to the time-only piece, and this time, Roger knew he needed to follow the spherical case.

Every watch that leaves Smith’s workshop on the Isle of Man is a uncommon hen, with roughly 12-15 watches in complete having been made, and solely a fraction of them being these Collection 1. That is an unbelievable mixture in my eye: the proper dimension at 38mm, all the things that may be is in rose gold, and the superb open case again to point out off that extremely detailed but by no means ostentatious ending. Would I personal this watch? In a heartbeat. Is there any probability of me getting anyplace close to that estimate (CHF150,000 – CHF300,000), or what it can really go for? By no means in 1,000,000 years. However I’ve met, frolicked with, and interviewed many occasions the person whose identify is on the dial, and that’s value extra to me. – Russell Sheldrake

Philippe Dufour Simplicity “Distinctive” – Philippe & Elisabeth Dufour Basis (Lot 129, Phillips)

How do you observe on from a Roger Smith? Properly, with one other piece from one of many world’s most esteemed dwelling watchmakers, specifically the legendary Philippe Dufour. Any time a Simplicity makes its technique to public sale is thrilling, to say the least (and certainly, there’s one other Simplicity additionally going underneath the hammer with Phillips, Lot 53) however a completely distinctive one with an unprecedented dial materials? That’s actually momentous.

There’s no wavy hand-guilloché right here: as a substitute, we’ve got a dial constructed from butterfly wings, a creation of artist Dominique Arpa-Cirpka, finest identified for her work with ArtyA, which was based by her husband Yvan Arpa. The Philippe Dufour emblem has additionally been engraved into the crystal in order to not disrupt the iridescent great thing about the dial. Whereas the dial is essentially the most novel aspect of this watch, it’s a Dufour in any case, so flipping it over will reveal one of many prettiest actions in horology, utterly hand-finished and assembled by the maestro himself.

This watch’s beautiful magnificence inside and outside would already make it notable sufficient, however it’s additionally being auctioned off in assist of charity. The proceeds of 12 watches on this Phillips Geneva Watch Public sale – all donated by up-and-coming impartial watchmakers, and this watch from Dufour himself – will assist the Philippe & Elisabeth Dufour Basis, which offers humanitarian assist in Switzerland and overseas, in addition to offers a platform for rising stars in horology. – Jamie Weiss

Patek Philippe Ref. 530A-SCI (Lot 773, Antiquorum)

What may you need greater than a probably distinctive Patek Philippe? To that, add that it’s in chrome steel (a fabric hardly ever utilized by the Maison previously), and it has a salmon pink dial with utilized Breguet numerals. This mixture might be one thing that many people would select if we may configure our preferrred mannequin. Now, think about that it was made in 1939 and bought in 1942, a interval of political and financial uncertainties, which makes all the things extra magical.

This watch belongs to the second yr of manufacturing of the ref. 530, which began in 1938, and whereas completely sized for contemporary requirements, at 36.5mm it was outsized for the time. I actually want I may know the story of the gentleman who selected it on the time. What a mode icon! – Pietro Pilla

Haldimann H1 Central Tourbillon (Lot 52, Phillips)

Throughout watch public sale season, it’s not unusual to seek out quite a few heaps that will in any other case be undisputed headliners linger within the type of “oh yeah, that’s good” echelon, overshadowed by stuff you simply by no means see come up. This naturally made selecting a favorite that rather more tough, with the probability of my really lacking one thing that may high my record among the many a whole bunch of heaps. A Twenties Santos right here and a 1910s metal Calatrava 96 there, I additionally tried to place private bias apart as a lot as potential – these are the sorts of items I’d personally hunt for – however being true to myself, I can’t assist however give just a few honourable mentions.

The Phillips catalogue appears significantly stacked this yr, and apart from the barrage of the standard Daytonas, the headlining THA Breguet No. 1 is value at the least a doff of the cap, as is the Christian Klings Desmodromic and the pair of City Jurgensens. However the watch that actually captured my coronary heart is the Haldimann H1 Central Tourbillon. What a stunner! Beat Haldimann’s creations have lengthy been a distant dream of mine, and whereas the H1 wouldn’t be absolutely the, money-no-question grail (that “honour” would go to the H2 Flying Resonance), the Central Tourbillon is simply too imposing an object to be ignored.

The magnificence and minimalism of the dial and case are so well-considered, solely to be utterly trampled on by that vast, lyre-shaped central cage that dominates the general look. What makes each Haldimann watch much more particular is that they’re utterly hand-made, with no CNC machining, whereas the motion is powered by three barrels. Two of these work in unison, balancing one another out and offering energy to the tourbillon, whereas the third is solely for the palms, all managed by an interconnecting clutch. It’s an ingenious, extremely difficult watch, and simply the third ever to return to public sale, in keeping with Phillips. I don’t envision we’ll be seeing one other all that quickly. – Borna Bošnjak

Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir CPCP ref. 2356 (Lot 216, Antiquorum)

My decide from this yr’s Geneva auctions must be Lot 216 from Antiquorum, the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir CPCP ref. 2356 in yellow gold. It will not be the rarest or most extremely sought-after watch in these auctions, however that’s one thing I really like about it. At any time when I see a Tortue Monopoussoir, it simply takes my breath away like not many different watches do. I like how the curves of the case form differ out of your regular, right-angled Cartier, and there’s one thing so charming concerning the simplicity of a tiny chronograph motion lowered all the way down to function with only one pusher. – Tom Austin

Vacheron Constantin ref. 6448 “Distinctive Piece” (Lot 57, Phillips)

As Borna talked about, it says rather a lot concerning the power of Phillips’ public sale choices that so a lot of our picks on this article are drawn from their heaps this public sale season. This Vacheron Constantin has additionally been one of many watches they’ve actually been championing in all their communications, and it’s not onerous to see why: it’s the final identified however by no means seen ref. 6448 in platinum (solely 3 ref. 6448s have been ever identified to be made, the opposite two being white gold) and it’s by no means made its technique to public sale earlier than. Produced in 1961, this was the final minute repeater Vacheron made for 30 years, the model solely revisiting the complication within the 90s, making it an attention-grabbing time capsule of a watch.

To me, this watch epitomises all the things I really like about Vacheron Constantin: it’s acquired an exquisite interaction between restrained magnificence and unabashed luxurious. It’s cased in essentially the most luxurious of metals, platinum, however it’s brushed relatively than polished. Its dial is nearly austere, save for the diamond indices. It’s acquired slabby, straight lugs, however homes one of the elegant issues. Like Pietro commented above, I might like to have met the character who ordered such an beautiful, virtually contradictory watch, in addition to the household who’ve stored it in such nice situation till now. – Jamie Weiss

Omega Speedmaster Awarded to Apollo 9 Astronaut Russell Schweickart (Lot #54185, Heritage Auctions)

I’m completely dishonest with rather a lot from a USA-based public sale home, however Heritage Auctions out of Dallas, Texas has a really cool Omega Speedmaster up for grabs. The gold and burgundy bezelled 145.022 – 69 is already a cool watch by itself, however the provenance of this explicit one is the icing on the cake. This watch, No. 25, was offered to Apollo 9 Astronaut Russell Schweickart, as revealed by its caseback engraving. Schweickart’s in depth resume consists of being an aeronautical engineer, analysis scientist, U.S. Air Power fighter pilot and astronaut, and the Lunar Module Pilot on the Apollo 9 mission in 1969 (which is why he was awarded the watch, given to those that walked on the moon and made the lunar touchdown potential).

“The occasion during which we got the watches by Omega was in November of 1969,” Schweickart explains to Heritage Auctions. “It was simply after the Apollo 12 mission. We had all been carrying Omega watches, however they have been the silver ones. They gave out the watches to these of us who have been on the occasion, honouring our service, and touchdown on the moon and all the things that led as much as it.”

Schweickart claims he wore it recurrently up till he witnessed a fellow pilot get his wedding ceremony ring caught whereas exiting a airplane. After that, Schweickart stopped carrying any jewelry. “I ended carrying jewelry altogether, watches and all the things else,” Schweickart informed Heritage Auctions. “So mine ended up in a drawer, frankly, simply saved, and I misplaced monitor of it for a very long time… I might say fairly near 50 years. I believed I’d misplaced it, and it was solely earlier this yr, to be sincere with you, after I rediscovered it. No, I hadn’t misplaced it… That was fairly a shock.” Because of this, it’s worn sufficient to present it character, however the 5 a long time it spent in a drawer have actually frozen the watch in time and left it in nice situation. – Zach Blass