The New Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Edition

The announcement two years in the past of the comeback of Daniel Roth underneath Louis Vuitton’s path gave us nice hopes. Fortunately, we didn’t have to attend lengthy to see the primary results of this anticipated return, which began with a yellow gold Tourbillon Souscription, a devoted tribute to the late-Eighties reference C187 Tourbillon watch by Mr Roth, adopted by one other tourbillon in rose gold. Earlier this 12 months, we lined the introduction of a extremely vital mannequin, a basic time-only, ultra-thin costume watch, the Daniel Roth Additional Plat, this time a contemporary imaginative and prescient of the reference C107. Following the identical technique because the tourbillon, the inaugural yellow gold Souscription mannequin is now coming in non-limited rose gold, with an open again and a guilloché dial with a pinstripe sample. Let’s take a better have a look at the brand new Daniel Roth Additional Plat Rose Gold. 

Whereas Daniel Roth, who was behind the good revival of Breguet throughout the Eighties, began his personal model with the all-time basic Tourbillon C187 in 1989, his second mannequin was a far easier but extraordinarily elegant watch, the Additional Plat Computerized reference C107. Launched in 1990, the Additional Plat was the right expression of a chic costume watch with character. It was a discreet, skinny, time-only watch with a really elegant case form, the basic ellipsocurvex. It was a reasonably compact mannequin, out there in yellow, white or pink gold, with a dimension of 38mm x 35mm and a peak of 6.7mm. Inside ticked a properly completed Frederic Piguet 71 computerized calibre (with off-centred rotor), a skinny 2.4mm motion that Roth knew completely from his days at Breguet. Along with the reference C107, there was one other skinny costume watch, the reference C167, with a hand-wound motion and a thickness of 6.8mm, sometimes called the midiplat.

Launched in January in a yellow gold Souscription version of solely 20 items, the fashionable Daniel Roth Additional Plat is the direct descendant of those fantastically elegant time-only watches by Daniel Roth. The inaugural mannequin featured a closed again, just like the Souscription Tourbillon, and a yellow gold dial with a clous de Paris guilloché sample and contrasting blue numerals and palms. Now, in the identical vein because the non-limited Tourbillon mannequin, the Daniel Roth Additional Plat is offered in rose gold with a pinstriped dial, which contains a mixture of colors that we have now seen prior to now, when Roth was nonetheless in control of his firm.

With out surprises, the rose gold Additional Plat doesn’t deviate a lot from what we’ve found earlier this 12 months with the yellow gold Souscription watch. At the very least relating to the case. The signature form designed by Roth, the ellipsocurvex case, has been retained and is now crafted in 5N rose gold, nonetheless with a wholly polished floor and a wonderfully centred gadroon providing a properly balanced profile. The case sticks to the identical dimensions, with a compact 38.6mm size (excl. lugs), a 35.5mm width and an general thickness of seven.70mm. Sure, that’s 1mm greater than the outdated computerized model, however it’s nonetheless elegant and slender. The highest of the case, and now the again as nicely, contains a sapphire crystal.

No want to say that the watch is each impactful on the wrist, attributable to its authentic form, but additionally extraordinarily refined. A basic high-end time-only watch like we love them, with good-looking design and nice proportions. The lugs, that are made individually after which hand-soldered, are additionally extra angled than they was once on authentic Daniel Roth watches, guaranteeing a extra comfy match. It’s worn on a beige, grained calfskin leather-based strap closed by a pin buckle.

Moreover the usage of a brand new gold alloy and the presence of an open again, the primary distinction with the yellow gold Souscription mannequin is the dial. La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton selected a basic type as soon as utilized by Daniel Roth himself, a “guilloché en ligne” or pinstriped sample in a gray and gold color mixture. The bottom of the dial is fabricated from white gold, whereas the chapter ring is fabricated from rose gold with three strains of so-called “filet sauté” guilloché to separate the indications. On this rose gold version, all printings – emblem, particular person variety of the watch and Roman numerals – are rendered in black, a color additionally used to coat the polished metal palms.

Now with a motion that’s lastly seen (it deserves to be seen), the Daniel Roth Additional Plat Rose Gold is powered by the calibre DR002. This hand-wound motion was developed by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, the boys on the head of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, and retains the distinctive visible type of the calibre DR001 Tourbillon, despite the fact that the calibre DR002 has been developed from the bottom up for the Additional Plat Assortment and can function a base motion for future issues (wouldn’t it’s it good with a papillon show or a perpetual calendar?). What we’re taking a look at here’s a hand-wound formed motion, designed to suit completely inside the double-ellipse or ellipsocurvex case.

Measuring 31mm x 28mm, with a thickness of three.1mm, it’s fabricated from 143 parts with a free-sprung steadiness wheel beating at a contemporary 4Hz frequency, with 4 arms and every that includes a variable inertia weight for high-quality regulation. The big mainspring barrel, with lengthy click on spring, ensures a snug 65h energy reserve. The motion is finely adorned with a round grained mainplate, Geneva stripes and hand-applied polished chamfers, together with sharp inside angles.

Availability & Worth

Launched as a non-limited version, but with restricted manufacturing, the brand new Daniel Roth Additional Plat Rose Gold shall be priced at CHF 49,000 (excl. taxes). For extra particulars, please go to www.danielroth.com.