The MB&F SP One, The First Chapter in the new Special Projects Collection

Based in 2005 by Maximilian Büsser and relying on the participation of “buddies” within the inventive course of, MB&F has levitated round two essential collections since its creation, however all the time with a relatively radical idea and designs like nothing else in the marketplace. First got here the Horological Machines (with HM1 in 2007), futuristic watches impressed by area, science fiction, aviation, supercars or structure. In 2011, with the LM1, Büsser launched the Legacy Machine assortment, steampunk-inspired timepieces with a drastically completely different look. However like all inventive constructions, what makes it into manufacturing is barely the tip of the iceberg. There have been tons of dormant tasks, watches that didn’t slot in, and ideas that had been much more accessible (howdy, M.A.D Editions)… And now there’s a capsule to encase them: Particular Tasks. And it begins with the MB&F SP One, the “what if the model created a chic 38mm watch” piece that’s something however basic in the long run.

Historic context

Though I’m not solely positive Max will absolutely admire the concept of discussing the “historical past” of his model, we should keep in mind that MB&F is celebrating its twentieth anniversary this 12 months. And what a trip it’s been for the group and buddies. The highway has not all the time been simple, however that is what you get whenever you’re radically inventive and disruptive. Now, MB&F is without doubt one of the most established members of the indie watchmaking scene, with robust monetary backing from Chanel. However all the pieces began when Maximilian Büsser, beforehand head of Harry Winston watches and chargeable for the Opus assortment, determined to fly solo – properly, truly, by no means actually solo, as the entire idea was to collaborate with different inventive minds.

Bringing collectively gifted horological professionals, Büsser included his firm in 2005 underneath the title MB&F – Maximilian Büsser & Pals – and in 2007 introduced his first time-telling UHO, or unidentified horological object. The HM1 marked the beginning of the Horological Machine collection: sculptured, three-dimensional instances with superbly completed, formed engines inside, impressed by all the pieces Büsser and Giroud (his accomplice in design) cherished. Inspirations got here from themes as various as area and science fiction, aviation, supercars, the animal kingdom and structure. And this collection gave delivery to completely unbelievable watches, such because the HM3 collection, the Lambo-like HM5, the jellyfish HM7 or the unquantifiable HM9 Sapphire.

In 2011, one other assortment got here to life with a drastically completely different inspiration and magnificence, the Legacy Machines. Spherical instances, historic references and a much more conventional execution of the actions, and but an plain steampunk vibe. The concept was to think about the watches Max might have made if he had been born 100 years earlier, and was energetic similtaneously nice names similar to Eiffel or Verne. Following the LM1, the gathering expanded with problems similar to an modern perpetual calendar or a crazy-complex chronograph. Sure Legacy Machines have additionally given delivery to EVO editions, that includes elevated water and shock resistance.

And we’re solely speaking about watches, as a result of we might additionally point out clocks made with L’Epée 1839 or musical machines made with Reuge. Along with MB&F, the group additionally created a extra accessible model named M.A.D Editions, sharing a few of the greater brother’s creativity with extra affordably priced fashions.

As you’ll be able to anticipate, and regardless of an enormous assortment created over 20 years, what you’ve seen assembled and commercialised solely represents a fraction of Büsser and Giroud’s work. Dozens of cancelled concepts, numerous dormant tasks, a number of nice concepts that couldn’t be accomplished or just creations that weren’t according to the remainder of the model, or the time, or the market or the developments of the day… However someplace on this basket of unachieved issues lay the concept of a compact, elegant, sleeker watch. However MB&F being MB&F, there’s a twist.

And right here comes the Particular Tasks assortment, a basket filled with “wild concepts, flashes of instinct, and even sketches of skateboards and razors. It was a treasure trove of creativity”. Considered one of these ideas was picked out and introduced again to life, code-named Particular Mission One. And right here we have now the latest watch and assortment of MB&F.

The MB&F SP One

SP One is like nothing else we’ve seen earlier than at MB&F, and sure, it’s an MB&F by means of and thru. Simply with an altogether completely different intention. “What if we did what nobody anticipated – a chic, classical watch?” The primary sketch of the SP One dates again to 2018, however it all the time felt dangerous, an surprising and novel concept for the model. However so was the LM1, and don’t get me began on the HM1… And but, these have made historical past on the indie watchmaking scene.

The MB&F SP One represents a brand new chapter within the model’s inventive imaginative and prescient. However it’s not the guiding mild or blueprint for all the pieces else that can later be branded SP. The Particular Tasks assortment gained’t be as constant as HM and LM. Will probably be… particular, and anticipate the surprising and issues that don’t fall into the 2 different collections’ codes. Again to SP One, which began with a easy sketch: three circles resembling a smiley face, encapsulating the trinity of a watch motion, specifically the barrel, the steadiness wheel and the off-centred dial. Shortly drawn, unfinished, forgotten for some time. After which it returned, with the concept to create a watch that whispered sophistication as a substitute of shouting for consideration, a subtly elegant watch, glossy and restrained (at the very least in comparison with all the pieces else MB&F), placing apart the standard boldness of the model and but conserving its codes intact.

The result’s this SP One, a chic 38mm streamlined watch that has much more discretion than the rest we’ve seen earlier than from the Geneva-based indie model. But, you’ll be able to’t actually miss the origins of this creation, which oozes Giroud and Büsser, and consists of the basic mechanical options we’ve seen in earlier creations. It begins with a easy design, a watch as smooth as a pebble, with out sharp traces or aggressive angles on its case. Compact, with a 38mm diameter and a sub-42mm size, this watch can be the slimmest ever executed by the model at 12mm – sure, it isn’t going to win the race for ultra-thin, however the slim caseband makes it visually a lot thinner on the wrist, additionally helped by the box-shaped, ultra-domed sapphire crystal on high.

The case itself, manufactured from 18k rose gold or 950 platinum, with a completely polished end, is quiet and discreet. Solely the crown at 10 o’clock and the slight floating impact on the lugs introduce a dose of originality. Some will say that it feels too shy, however this was the target. The watch additionally has a bezel-free development, which provides to the feeling of area, transparency and lightness, in addition to a pleasing tactile really feel. And as you’ll be able to think about from the scale, it wears like a allure.

Shifting in direction of the centre of the watch, there’s no dial within the strict sense of the phrase, as typically with MB&F. The MB&F SP One was conceived round its motion, and the triptych-like structure of the calibre defines the look of the watch. There’s, in fact, a time indication, which sits in a typical MB&F inclined dial at 6 o’clock, with a DLC-coated base and basic polished markers and palms. That is the primary of three essential parts of the calibre.

The 2 others are the barrel and the steadiness wheel, organized in an architectural manner within the high a part of the watch. All the weather are sandwiched between the 2 sapphires, as in the event that they had been levitating contained in the watch. The motion is constructed round three arms, cleverly hidden beneath the three key parts, with the barrel, steadiness wheel and dial taking centre stage. Additionally collaborating within the glossy class of the SP One, the motion barely options seen bridges, screws or wheels. And enhancing the architectural look, all three parts have similar circumferences. The only-barrel structure is elegantly suspended and framed by a bevelled flange with a spiral brushed floor, including some texture to the entire structure. Relying on the case materials, this interior flange is both sky-blue (platinum) or anthracite (rose gold).

The again of the motion has much more occurring, as you’ll be able to anticipate. From a technical perspective, it options an outsized steadiness wheel beating at 2.5Hz, a stable 72-hour energy reserve on the one barrel and a complete of 191 elements. The ending is refined and discreet like the remainder of the watch, and but filled with particulars. All of the wheels are hand-angled, the jewels are held in place by distinguished gold chatons, the bridges are bevelled, and all he surfaces are embellished.

Availability & Worth

Worn on a calfskin strap with a white gold or rose gold pin buckle, the MB&F SP One (Particular Mission One) is on the market in two non-limited editions in platinum or rose gold. Solely the manufacturing capability will restrict the provision. The platinum mannequin is priced at CHF 63,000 or EUR 69,000, whereas the rose gold model comes at CHF 58,000 or EUR 64,000 (all costs excl. taxes).

For extra particulars, please go to mbandf.com.