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It’s Friday, and we’re again with one other checklist! After skipping it final week due to the brand new TAG Heuer releases, we’re again with one other Prime 5. With June just some days away, it’s already time to begin wanting again at a number of the greatest releases to this point in 2025. We’ll kick off this multi-week collection by highlighting a number of the greatest releases from small unbiased manufacturers. We’ve got seen fairly just a few spectacular ones, though not all of them are solely new fashions. Some new variations of present watches have additionally confirmed to be winners in our ebook. So let’s leap in and check out our 5 favorites from 2025 to this point.
Earlier than we get going, this checklist is a mix of releases from microbrands and small unbiased manufacturers. We’re not going to be strict with the definitions right here as a result of it’s extra concerning the watches that impressed than sticking to a inflexible definition of what a microbrand versus a small unbiased model ought to or shouldn’t be. When you see the watches, you’ll perceive what we now have aimed for with this checklist. So with that out of the way in which, let’s get into it.
Serica 5303 PLD EOD Divers
We begin this checklist with a well-recognized mannequin from the French unbiased model Serica. Nevertheless it’s not only a new 5303. The Serica 5303 PLD was developed with the EOD (Explosive Ordnance Disposal) Divers of the French Navy. The watch’s fundamental function that’s of the utmost significance to the EOD Divers is its magnetism resistance. As Thomas defined, any battery-powered watch is harmful to EOD divers as a result of the slightest magnetic disturbance can set off explosives. It’s why the French Navy turned to Serica to create a particular model of its trendy 5303 dive watch.
The fundamentals of the watch are the identical, however in case you look nearer, you will note some slight variations. This model of the 5303 has the acquainted 39mm chrome steel case with a 12.2mm thickness and a 46.5mm lug-to-lug. It’s additionally waterproof to 300 meters because of the thick sapphire crystal and the all-steel case again. The case options a stainless-steel bezel with a darkish blue bezel insert. That’s the first signal of this being a barely completely different 5303. As we now have seen lately, the fellows at Serica know how one can choose their colours, and this saturated blue isn’t any exception.
A distinct bezel with a particular goal for the 5303 PLD
However in case you look nearer, the scales are additionally completely different on the bezel. The same old minute and hour scales make means for a “most dive time” scale. This enables the bezel to show the utmost allowed operation time for a variety of depths. The numerals for the dimensions on the blue half are engraved and executed in white. The numerals used on the aluminum inside a part of the bezel are additionally engraved and executed in black. Mixed with the retro-style black dial, it creates one other standout model of the Serica 5303.
However that’s not the place the variations finish. The lollipop seconds hand is now barely thicker to enhance legibility, particularly in the dead of night with the fatter lume plot. Lastly, the textual content on the decrease half of the dial options the phrase “amagnétique,” indicating that this isn’t your regular 5303.
Contained in the case lies the COSC-certified Soprod M100. This caliber operates at 28,800vph and gives 42 hours of energy reserve. To complete the look, the watch comes with Serica’s commonplace mesh bracelet that wears like a attraction. Nonetheless, Serica additionally offers a secondary elastic PLD strap in inexperienced with a yellow pinstripe. All in all, this can be a shocking new model of the Serica 5303 that gives an fascinating story and loads of shocking new particulars to make this our first choose. It may be yours for €1,690. This watch reveals that smaller, unbiased manufacturers may also create nice watches for the French Navy.
Anoma A1 Slate
Subsequent up is one other iteration of an present mannequin. The inaugural Anoma A1 made an enduring impression on us final yr. The watch stood out instantly because of its triangular pebble-shaped design. The elegant case match the thrill surrounding formed watches completely, however there was far more to the story than that. The watch is the brainchild of Matteo Violet-Vianello, who has a historical past at A Collected Man. Because of his time there, he noticed fairly just a few fascinating timepieces that impressed him to begin designing a watch.
The A1 incorporates a mixture of two rounded triangles, with one barely offset inside the opposite. All of it begins with the chrome steel case, which has a 39mm diameter (and size), a 9.45mm profile, and a 50m water resistance ranking. This collection of specs provides some type of path, however due to the case’s odd form, any basic interpretation of these numbers goes out the window.
A extra refined dial for the A1 Slate
For final yr’s mannequin, Anoma used a phenomenal darkish blue sector dial with printed white indexes. For the brand new A1, Violet Vianello opted for a extra refined slate-black dial. I had an opportunity to put on this new A1 Slate mannequin for a bit and was impressed by the brand new dial. As Daan defined, first, the dial is vertically brushed, and after that, two finely engraved “lanes” are utilized. Then, the dial base receives three layers of black lacquer.
The markings on the dial have additionally barely modified, changing into thinner in direction of the middle of the dial. The emblem is gone from the higher a part of the dial, whereas the attractive handset has stayed the identical. I like the fingers as a result of they provide the design character and swimsuit the case form fairly properly.
Anoma selected the Sellita SW100 to energy this watch. It’s the identical motion Toledano & Chan used for the B/1. The automated motion operates at 28,800vph and gives 40 hours of energy reserve. Sometimes, this caliber powers ladies’s watches and comes commonplace with central seconds and a date window. For the A1, nonetheless, Anoma eschewed these options to make sure a clear and delightful dial design. Total, the Anoma A1 Slate made a much bigger impression on me than the inaugural mannequin because of the new dial. And contemplating that each one 300 items offered out very quickly, it appears we weren’t the one ones who cherished this launch.
Fears Arnos Pewter Blue
English unbiased model Fears has stunned us a number of occasions this yr with its new releases. The Gimlet, a collaborative effort with fellow English model Studio Underd0g, was an early spotlight of 2025. We had it in for evaluation, and all of the Fratello staff members have been impressed by the discharge created for the British Watchmakers’ Day. However the one launch that may absolutely find yourself on fairly just a few year-end lists is the brand new Fears Arnos Pewter Blue. The watch takes inspiration from an oblong Twenties and ’30s watch discovered within the model’s archives.
The watch incorporates a rectangular case that Fears additionally used for its Archival 1930, which debuted in 2021 to have a good time the unbiased model’s a hundred and seventy fifth anniversary. This case has a 22.6mm diameter, a 40mm lug-to-lug, and an 8.4mm profile. Overlaying the dial is a phenomenal 33.5mm-long curved sapphire crystal that accentuates the watch’s elegant traces.
A two-part dial for the Fears Arnos
The dial consists of two distinct elements. Within the heart sits a spherical blue galvanic time show, and surrounding that could be a massive rhodium-plated portion with a hobnail sample. The blue dial incorporates a basic railroad monitor with Roman numerals positioned on the within. However as you possibly can see, the general fashion is way from basic and extra modern in its execution. It creates a phenomenal modern-day tackle a really conventional design.
Contained in the case, you can find the automated Sellita SW1000-1 b motion. The caliber operates at 28,800vph, has 18 jewels, and gives 46 hours of energy reserve. Fears selected the Prime Grade model of the caliber and changed the inventory rotor with a personalized Fears rotor. The motion is safely hidden behind a stainless-steel case again, so that you gained’t be capable to see it. In case you ask me, although, that’s the proper selection as a result of the fashion of watch doesn’t ask for a show case again.
Ending the look are the 2 straps that the watch comes with. The primary is a taupe Barenia leather-based strap, and the second is a darkish blue clean rubber cut-to-size strap by Delugs with a leaf-spring butterfly clasp. The Arnos Pewter Blue is the primary launch in a brand new line of watches for Fears, and it prices £4,350. It’s a fantastic begin to what appears to turn into a signature assortment for this model.
Dennison + Collectability ALD
Dennison is one other small unbiased model that has benefited vastly from the thrill surrounding formed, dressier watches. We have been completely impressed once we had the primary collection of the model’s ALD fashions with stone dials in for evaluation final yr. Dennison has had assist from designer Emmanuel Gueit to create an inexpensive quartz watch with a standout design. The mix of the modestly sized case and cleverly picked dial variations has impressed a big viewers and led to sold-out fashions virtually immediately.
For Dennisson’s newest collection, the unbiased model collaborated with Collectability on a duo of latest dial variations. The outcomes are as soon as once more quite shocking, granting them the fourth spot on this Prime 5 checklist. As Mike defined, John Reardon, usually related to Patek Philippe, has labored for Christie’s and created the gross sales and knowledge web site Collectability. He was impressed by the preliminary ALD fashions and purchased some for himself and his youngsters. After that, Reardon and Dennison began engaged on this new collection with bespoke dials.
A well-recognized canvas
The canvas for the 4 fashions stays the identical. The 2 watches function a 33.65mm by 37mm chrome steel case with a mere 6.05mm thickness. As we all know from Dennison, you possibly can select from a daily chrome steel model or a PVD gold chrome steel case. Hidden behind the dual-branded case again is the quartz Ronda 1032-1 caliber, which offers 60 months of battery life. By selecting a quartz caliber, Dennison was capable of hold the watch as slim as it’s. Moreover, it retains the costs of the watches very inexpensive.
The star of the present is, undoubtedly, the particular dial with a blue heart and blue-green outer portion. The 2-tone sunray dial attracts inspiration from the rarest items in Collectability’s archive, offering a correct retro really feel that fits the watch properly. Ending the look in fashion is a 20mm blue leather-based alligator-pattern strap and case-matching pin buckle.
With a value of US$690, this can be a launch we completely adore. Having mentioned that, the ordering window has closed, so you possibly can’t get your fingers on one anymore. However it is possible for you to to get your fingers on a number of the different stone- and wood-dial variations of the Dennison ALD fashions which might be across the identical value and provide a equally sensible cocktail of components.
Behrens Extremely-Gentle 11G
We’ll shut out this checklist of 5 watches with one thing fully completely different. The Extremely-Gentle 11G from the Chinese language unbiased model Behrens fully stunned us when it landed in our workplace. The idea, the design, and the execution are really one thing else. Granted, all of it begins with the purple shade of the mannequin we had in for evaluation. It’s in all probability not a shade you’ll instantly choose, particularly not as your solely watch except you’re Zebediah Killgrave, aka The Purple Man. Different variations we now have seen have been in inexperienced, white, pink, and black. Whereas the black mannequin is probably the most “regular,” it’s additionally the least enjoyable. And enjoyable is a big a part of the attraction of this uniquely designed timepiece.
This purple Extremely-Gentle 11G is a restricted version of solely 33 items unique to Blue Lake Watches. The watch has a wafer-thin trapezoidal case fabricated from SPSCF. Lex defined that this materials is a diamond-coated carbon fiber developed solely by Behrens. Due to the coating, the fabric is tremendous gentle and really sturdy. It ends in a watch case weighing solely 11 grams. The purple carbon case has a 42mm span on the longest facet. Moreover, it has a 38mm diameter, a 5.2mm thickness, and a 30m water resistance ranking.
A curved case makes carrying the Extremely-Gentle 11G tremendous snug
The watch case is curved, so regardless of its odd form, it matches properly on the wrist. Contained in the case, you can find the in-house caliber BM02, which the model additionally makes use of for its Extremely-Gentle 20G. The motion options skeletonized titanium parts and can be curved, so it flows in sync with the case form. Moreover, the case again serves because the mainplate, which primarily implies that the hand-wound motion is the watch. The caliber operates at a 28,800vph frequency and gives a 38-hour energy reserve.
The purple fluoroelastomer strap with a titanium pin buckle finishes the look. It creates a full-purple affair that’s an absolute pleasure to put on and brings a smile to all of our faces. With none exception, all of the Fratello staff members acknowledged that this Behrens Extremely-Gentle 11G appears bonkers however is a ton of enjoyable to put on.
On high of that, the execution is nothing wanting spectacular. The supplies, the caliber, and the design make for a watch that may stand out in any crowd. At €11,800, it’s on no account an affordable watch. However that doesn’t imply it isn’t probably the most enjoyable out of the 5 picks for this checklist, which is why it’s the excellent watch to shut it out.
Last ideas on the highest 5 releases from small unbiased manufacturers in 2025 to this point
There you might have it — our 5 picks for the most effective releases we’ve seen from small unbiased manufacturers this yr. We might have picked many extra watches from a plethora of unbiased manufacturers. Finally, these 5 impressed us, put a smile on our faces, and stood out from the regular stream of latest releases. Moreover, it’s exceptional that three of the 5 match the trending types of formed watches and watches with stone dials. What can I say? We’re solely human at Fratello, and we love stone dials no matter whether or not huge or small manufacturers use them. Plus, the formed watches provide one thing contemporary and a mode that small manufacturers have efficiently adopted.
However what do you consider our picks? As all the time, tell us within the feedback, and we’ll see you again right here subsequent Friday for an additional Prime 5!
