The Return of Urban Jürgensen, and the New UJ-1, UJ-2 and UJ-3

A few days in the past, we printed an extended, in-depth article on the historical past of some of the essential watchmaking dynasties, City Jürgensen. There have been extra causes for this text than simply celebrating this historic title, which was based in 1773. This text was right here to arrange the grounds for what is occurring as we speak, the official return of City Jürgensen underneath the co-direction of Kari Voutilainen, one thing we introduced about 4 years in the past already. However it’s now official; City Jürgensen is again underneath the possession of an American household of devoted watch collectors and a small group of traders. And the brand new assortment, consisting of three spectacular watches mixing technical highlights and heritage, is what we’ll be speaking about now. Meet the brand new City Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon, UJ-2 Time-Solely and UJ-3 Perpetual. 

Background

As for the historical past of City Jürgensen, we invite you to pour your self a espresso and check out this in-depth article, summarising over 250 years of what has been a captivating saga of watchmaking, filled with ups and downs, and involving a few of the best names of horology, previous and current.

Let’s speak in regards to the current and future. Up till 2021, City Jürgensen was underneath the management of Danish non-public fairness traders and directed by Søren Petersen, an equally Danish watch collector and businessman. The model, whereas again within the fingers of fellow Dans, was headquartered in Switzerland. But, the state of affairs wasn’t good and the model needed to face some troubles (once more…) However that’s when the Rosenfield household enters the equation. These Individuals, along with a small group of strategic traders, set about faithfully returning City Jürgensen to its roots. This was in 2021, and the traders already introduced again then that Kari Voutilainen, the acclaimed impartial watchmaker, would turn into co-CEO and accountable for the conception and manufacturing of the watches.

Kari, himself of Scandinavian origins, is not any stranger to City Jürgensen. He labored with Pratt and Baumberger, first by ending dials for the model. It is usually essential to notice that his time working along with the 2 house owners of UJ strongly influenced his later work underneath his eponymous title, with distinctive design components later present in his watches, such because the open-tip fingers, the teardrop lugs or the guilloché dials. Extra importantly, Voutilainen will likely be concerned in what’s probably an important watch of the trendy period of City Jürgensen, the Oval Pocket Watch. Again in 2005, initially created by Derek Pratt throughout his tenure as City Jürgensen’s technical director, he needed to create his magnum opus, and it took over 20 years for him to finish the watch. Attributable to his sickness, Baumberger handed over the meeting and ending of the watch as a equipment of elements to Kari Voutilainen, who accomplished the well-known work.

Again in 2025, City Jürgensen is about to rise once more. Co-CEO Voutilainen will likely be assisted by Alex Rosenfield, who represents the household and likewise serves as Co-CEO with experience in trend, media, and advertising.

The 2025 City Jürgensen Assortment

What to anticipate from City Jürgensen, Kari Voutilainen and the Rosenfield household for this 2025 return? Three watches, all constructed round a constant design, crafted historically – what else would you anticipate with such a reputation on the dial and Kari behind the conception? – with advanced hand-finished actions, guilloche dials and a imaginative and prescient of bringing the heritage of the model into traditional, modern wristwatches. The watches are made by mixing “Danish design and Swiss craftsmanship,” says Alex Rosenfield. As for Kari, he emphasises the necessity to respect “the pursuit of excellence that City himself set in movement centuries in the past, simply as he was coming of age in the course of the golden period of marine chronometry – a time when accuracy was paramount for navigation and scientific development.”

This isn’t a simple job, although, contemplating the affect of the model, which has know two golden ages, underneath City Jürgensen himself, in addition to the time when Baumberger and Pratt have been caring for it. That being stated, for Voutilainen, it “seems like coming dwelling. The model performed a vital function in my early profession.” Certainly, his work at UJ, apart from the Oval, included mechanical work, meeting, prototyping, creating distinctive items, and offering after-sales service.

The 2025 assortment, which marks the return of UJ, includes three mechanically advanced timepieces, but with traditional, streamlined designs that don’t expose the complexity of the actions. It contains the UJ-1 Tourbillon, an anniversary watch that serves as a bridge between the previous and the longer term, the UJ-2, a traditional time-only (three-hander) hand-wound watch with double wheel pure escapement (one thing acquainted to Kari) and the UJ-3, a perpetual calendar that constructed on the identical hand-wound, pure escapement motion, and that in some way feels as continuity to neo-vintage watches such because the Reference 2. For now, the signature detent escapement, which was developed by Pratt and Mojon and located within the P8 calibre, isn’t set to return.

All three new City Jürgensen watches share the identical general design, with a newly designed case that in some way removes the standard cues of the previous, such because the teardrop lugs. Nicely, in a method, as Kari defined to us that the shocking, polarising lugs on this new case are literally a reinterpretation of the teardrop lugs, simply rotated 90 levels and made sharper. In the identical vein, all dials are executed in sterling silver and hand-guilloché with Clous de Paris and Grain d’orge patterns (once more, a speciality of Voutilainen), with off-centred indications materialised by valuable steel tracks. The actions are additionally an ode to the previous, with their matte ornament and gold-plated surfaces, in addition to a remedy of the bridges that may both echo vintage pocket watch motion, or extra importantly, the motion of the Oval that Kari as soon as helped to finish.

All watches are made in Biel, Switzerland, underneath the route of Voutilainen’s daughter, Venla. Concerning distribution, the brand new UJ watches will likely be accessible straight from the model, both in restricted numbers or in small portions, as a result of lengthy manufacturing course of. However let’s now have a look at these watches intimately.

The City Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon

The primary and most important introduction for the relaunch of City Jürgensen is that this UJ-1 mannequin, probably the most advanced of all of them, and but probably probably the most discreet and traditional of the trio. However what issues most is that this wristwatch must be thought-about as a up to date revisit of the well-known Oval pocket watch began by Pratt and completed by Voutilainen, particularly on the again with a motion that comes with each technical and aesthetic similarities.

All of it begins with a comparatively compact case of 39.5mm, with a thickness of 12.2mm. If the lug-to-lug isn’t talked about, we are able to clearly anticipate it to be on the brief facet, given the form of the lugs. As stated, these are fashionable reinterpretations of the traditional Jürgensen teardrop lug, with a bolder, extra graphic form. The case is provided with a stepped bezel, that includes each satin-finished and polished components. The again is finely completed with a grain d’orge hand-guilloche sample, exhibiting the dedication to advantageous, even non-visible particulars.

The dial of the City Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon is unquestionably on the discreet facet, but additionally finely detailed. The bottom, manufactured from strong sterling silver, is hand-guilloche with linear grain d’orge within the centre and clous de Paris for the small seconds, classically positioned at 6 o’clock. A peripheral chapter ring surrounds the dial with discreet, small (too small possibly) Roman numerals, apart from the zero. A pair of open-tip fingers signifies the time, whereas the remainder of the dial incorporates a small seconds and an influence reserve. All of the tracks are utilized and manufactured from satin-finished silver or gold.

Three editions of the UJ-1 Tourbillon are launched instantly at launch time. The primary (UJ-1-PT-S-001) combines a platinum case with a silver-toned dial, in addition to flame-blued fingers. The second mannequin (UJ-1-PT-G-001) additionally makes use of platinum for the case however encompasses a darkish gray dial for extra distinction with the silver-toned tracks, chapter ring and fingers. Lastly, the third mannequin (UJ-1-RG-S-001) is manufactured from rose gold, paired with a silver-toned dial and rose gold tracks and fingers. All three are worn on hand-stitched, ethically-sourced alligator leather-based with gentle calfskin lining, closed by a pin buckle.

Let’s now transfer to the principle curiosity right here, the motion. Whereas the outside components of the watch are discreet, the motion is superbly demonstrative – what else would you anticipate from Kari and UJ…? Made in-house and developed by Voutilainen, the calibre UJ-1 miniaturises and adapts a model of the legendary Pratt’s oval pocket watch motion right into a wristwatch. This huge calibre is constructed round 3 aligned components: a flying barrel that appears to drift above the motion, a big central bridge with pillars, and the regulating organ… However not any form of regulator. This UJ-1, similar to the oval, has a one-minute tourbillon geared up with a remontoir d’égalité (a relentless drive system) contained in the carriage – the oval was the primary motion to be geared up with this. It beats at 18,000 vibrations/hour, and the remontoir delivers the vitality to the escapement as soon as per second. This was essential for the house owners and Voutilainen to deliver again the reminiscence of this spectacular watch to the wrist.

The motion is superbly completed, but possibly in a much less demonstrative method than what you possibly can see on Kari’s personal calibres. The plates and bridges have an vintage pocket watch really feel, with their grenage floor and a rose gold plating. All components are dome-bevelled by hand, together with the spectacular central bridge with its gold chaton. All wheels are satin-polished with chamfered spokes, and the screw-heads are mirror-polished. The big flying barrel is provided with a Geneva stop-work and delivers 47h of energy reserve. The regulator is a Swiss lever, paired with a stability wheel with micrometric timing screws and hairspring with Phillips terminal curve. And a advantageous element, the ability reserve indicator is pushed by a conical aspect.

Every of the three editions of the City Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon is restricted to 25 items and priced at CHF 368,000 excluding VAT.

Fast information: 39.5mm x 12.2mm – polished and satin-finished 950 platinum or 18k rose gold case, stepped polished bezel, reinterpreted Jürgensen teardrop lugs, sapphire crystals back and front, hand-guilloche again with Grain d’orge sample, 30m water resistant – strong silver dial, hand-guilloche (grain d’orge and clous de Paris), utilized tracks in silver or rose gold, flame-blued or gold open-tip fingers – in-house calibre UJ-1, rose gold-plated, 30mm x 8.17mm, 32 jewels, one-minute tourbillon with remontoir d’égalité fixed drive, flying barrel, Swiss lever escapement, 18,000vph, 47h energy reserve, hours, minutes, small seconds – alligator strap with pink buckle – UJ-1-PT-S-001 (platinum, silver dial), UJ-1-PT-G-001 (platinum, gray dial), UJ-1-RG-S-001 (rose gold, silver dial) – every restricted to 25 items – CHF 368,000 excluding VAT

The City Jürgensen UJ-2 Three-Hand

The second watch to be unveiled on this inaugural assortment, the City Jürgensen UJ-2, is a traditional high-end time-only watch and represents the purest expression of the design language and mechanical philosophy of the brand new UJ. But, the reverse facet as soon as once more reveals a posh motion that options some spectacular technical methods to reinforce chronometry.

The UJ-2 is within the vein of many latest three-handers by impartial watchmakers. Not solely a gown watch, visually traditional but lavishly completed… with the value to match. It begins with the identical general case design with a stepped bezel and reinterpreted Jürgensen teardrop lugs, solely made barely smaller at 39mm in diameter and 10.9mm in thickness. Once more, the lugs are brief and will provide nice consolation on the wrist, although the result’s a watch that feels a bit vast and tall. Once more, the caseback is adorned with a hand-guilloche sample, circling the sapphire crystal revealing the motion.

As for the dial, the City Jürgensen UJ-2 breaks a bit the virtually calvinist symmetry and discretion of the UJ-1 with a barely off-centred show. Not solely is the small second sub-dial positioned at 4:30, however the central axis of the fingers can also be positioned barely up on the dial. Two utilized tracks in silver or gold and a number of other textures – easy central half, grain d’orge on the periphery, clous de Paris for the seconds – additionally animate the dial with interconnected traces. An influence reserve completes the show at 12 o’clock, however isn’t pushed by a conical mechanism this time. 4 combos will likely be accessible: UJ-2-PT-S-001 (platinum, silver dial), UJ-2-PT-B-001 (platinum, blue dial), UJ-2-RG-S-001 (rose gold, silver dial) and UJ-2-RG-B-001 (rose gold, blue dial), paired with both blued, rose gold or rhodium-toned fingers. All are worn on the identical alligator strap as talked about above.

Beneath the sapphire again is a motion that has been designed to really feel as sourced from a pocket watch, with a particular form for the bridges. The hand-wound, in-house calibre UJ-2 is a big motion measuring 30mm, with the signature ornament of the model: grenage end, gold-plated bridges, domed polished bevels, together with sharp inside anglage, and advantageous particulars on the wheels and screws. With its massive single barrel, this motion operating at a 2.5Hz frequency shops about 52 hours of energy reserve.

In addition to the look and end, this motion can also be distinguished by its use of a posh regulating organ. The big screwed free-sprung stability is linked to a system expensive Kari Voutilainen, the double wheel pure escapement. It has been tailored to UJ’s wants with a view to create a base motion that may layer problems (extra on that in a bit). This escapement was first imagined by Breguet after which rediscovered by buddies Daniels and Pratt, the latter incorporating it in a pocket watch motion within the late Nineteen Nineties. Its significance lies in the way it addresses the age-old problem of decreasing friction whereas reaching the optimum switch of vitality effectively and exactly inside a mechanical watch. This lubrication-free system delivers a direct impulse to the stability by means of an impulse curler, reaching as much as 30% extra energy effectivity than a standard Swiss lever escapement whereas enhancing stability and longevity. The hairspring options an overcoil and Grossmann inside curve, similar to in Voutilainen’s personal watches.

The 4 fashions that compose the City Jürgensen UJ-2 should not restricted, however manufacturing will stay fairly confidential. All are priced at CHF 105,000 excluding VAT.

Fast information: 39mm x 10.9mm – polished and satin-finished 950 platinum or 18k rose gold case, stepped polished bezel, reinterpreted Jürgensen teardrop lugs, sapphire crystals back and front, hand-guilloche again with Grain d’orge sample, 30m water resistant – strong silver dial, hand-guilloche (grain d’orge and clous de Paris), utilized tracks in silver or rose gold, flame-blued or gold open-tip fingers – in-house calibre UJ-2, rose gold-plated, 30mm x 5.5mm, 32 jewels, free-sprung stability with direct double wheel escapement, 18,000vph, 52h energy reserve, hours, minutes, small seconds – UJ-2-PT-S-001 (platinum, silver dial), UJ-2-PT-B-001 (platinum, blue dial), UJ-2-RG-S-001 (rose gold, silver dial), UJ-2-RG-B-001 (rose gold, blue dial) – alligator strap with pink buckle – CHF 105,000 excluding VAT

The City Jürgensen UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar

Final however not least, City Jürgensen additionally launches the UJ-3, a perpetual calendar watch conceived by Kari Voutilainen and impartial watchmaker Andreas Strehler. You possibly can see this watch because the successor to the Reference 2, solely now with a number of mechanical refinements in its motion.

The case design is shared with the 2 aforementioned UJ-1 and UJ-2, solely right here with extra heft as a result of presence of a QP complication. The case, accessible in 950 platinum or 18k rose gold, measures 39mm in diameter however is now 13.9mm in thickness. The reinterpreted teardrop lug, the stepped bezel and guilloche caseback are all similar to the 2 fashions above. As for the dial, the one possibility accessible for now’s a black guilloché silver base, paired with gold fingers that match the color of the case steel.

Because of a intelligent use of guilloché (round grain d’orge, straight grain d’orge, clous de Paris and sauté-piqué) and regardless of the monochromatic tone of the dial, the show stays quite legible and easy. The date is positioned at 4:30 across the small seconds, whereas two apertures are positioned simply above the central axis of the dial, subsequent to the three and 9 o’clock hour markers. A moon section complication balances the place of the small seconds/date on the decrease half, and UJ intentionally positioned the bissextile year indication (not one thing you employ commonly) on the motion facet.

The mechanical base of the City Jürgensen UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar is similar to the UJ-2, with the identical hand-wound calibre structure and the double wheel pure escapement. The principle distinction lies in what’s on high of the motion, however not as a module, because the perpetual calendar capabilities are built-in into the motion. All indications are paired with an instantaneous leap mechanism, and the moon indication is a traditional Strehler model with a precision of someday deviation each 14,000 years – licensed right here for the primary time in a serially produced watch. The again reveals the identical extremely vintage-looking and superbly adorned motion because the UJ-2, with the addition of the bissextile year over one of many bridges.

The City Jürgensen UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar isn’t restricted, however manufacturing will stay fairly confidential. Each editions are priced at CHF 168,000 excluding VAT.

Fast information: 39mm x 13.9mm – polished and satin-finished 950 platinum or 18k rose gold case, stepped polished bezel, reinterpreted Jürgensen teardrop lugs, sapphire crystals back and front, hand-guilloche again with Grain d’orge sample, 30m water resistant – strong silver dial, hand-guilloche (round grain d’orge, sauté-piqué and clous de Paris), utilized tracks in silver or rose gold, gold open-tip fingers – in-house calibre UJ-3 built-in perpetual calendar, 30mm x 8.1mm, 42 jewels, free-sprung stability with direct double wheel escapement, 18,000vph, 52h energy reserve, hours, minutes, small seconds, perpetual calendar instantaneous leap mechanism at midnight for the indications and the moon, bissextile year indicator on the motion – UJ-3-PT-B-001 (platinum, black dial), UJ-3-RG-B-001 (rose gold, black dial) – alligator strap with pink buckle – CHF 168,000 excluding VAT

For extra particulars, please go to urbanjurgensen.com.