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Rather less than a month in the past, we noticed the introduction of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925. The watch commemorates 100 years of Longines dual-time watches in a fairly daring vogue. Its rose-gold-capped bezel and matching gold dial particulars set it other than every other Spirit Zulu Time. I used to be instantly intrigued by this unique take and knew I needed to get my fingers on one.
This hands-on evaluate is a follow-up to Lex’s earlier introduction article. I can’t repeat all the pieces he so capably described, so for the complete Longines Zulu Spirit 1925 expertise, it’s possible you’ll need to begin together with his article after which come again right here.
The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925
I’ll, nevertheless, begin with a really temporary recap for these of you who’re in a rush immediately. Longines launched its first dual-time watch in 1925. This fairly particular little quantity featured a sq. dial adorned with the maritime Zulu flag and two units of fingers. “Zulu” refers back to the letter Z within the NATO phonetic alphabet, which refers back to the zero meridian in Greenwich, England. That is common time, UTC+0, or Greenwich Imply Time.
1925 Longines Zulu Time
Longines gave its unique 1925 Zulu Time a successor within the Spirit Zulu Time in 2022. At this time’s celebratory new model is predicated on that trendy template. The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 is available in a 39 × 46.8 × 13.5mm chrome steel case. Not like its sibling fashions, it doesn’t merely have a sapphire crystal up prime; it additionally has a second one within the case again, offering a view of the motion inside. Longines charges the watch’s water resistance at 100 meters.
Inside lies the automated Longines caliber L844.4 (base ETA A31.L411), an automated motion additionally providing guide winding and hacking seconds. It ticks at 25,200vph and has a 72-hour energy reserve. Final however not least, the motion is a COSC-certified chronometer.
A gold-capped bezel
The standout function of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 is unquestionably its rose-gold-capped bezel. The traditional shiny ceramic insert makes manner for this brushed metallic various. I ought to in all probability clarify the time period “gold capping,” as it’s markedly completely different from gold plating.
You possibly can contemplate gold capping like wrapping one thing in a layer of gold. In distinction to gold plating, which is normally a mere 0.5–5 microns thick, the gold layer on the Zulu Time 1925 measures an ample 200 microns in thickness. Whereas that is nonetheless removed from strong gold, it has a significant profit over plating in that it doesn’t put on off almost as simply. You would need to grind the complete form out of the inlay earlier than going by the gold. Briefly, with regular use, it should stay good and golden endlessly.
Longines etches the 24-hour markings on the bezel. Crucially, the model doesn’t fill the markings with lacquer or lume, leading to a mushy ton-sur-ton aesthetic that could be very straightforward on the attention.
First impressions
Apparently, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 seemed precisely because it did within the press pictures once I opened the field. The rose gold seems extra coppery than gold, making it much less flashy than most two-tone watches. It doesn’t come throughout as crass or blingy by any means.
This brings me to the title of this text. I need to admit that I’m not typically a fan of two-tone watches. There are nice exceptions, however I usually discover bimetal configurations a bit too blingy and old style. The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925, nevertheless, doesn’t feel and look like a standard two-tone watch. It helps that Longines fashions the bracelet out of metal solely, with none rose gold particulars. Nonetheless, the tone of the rose gold pushes it even additional away from a typical two-tone watch.
Sure, the Zulu Time 1925 appears to be like retro. Sure, the gold provides a heat distinction to the in any other case cool metal. However no, it doesn’t exude any of the Nineteen Eighties-investment-banker vibes you would possibly get from sure two-tone alternate options. This can be a two-tone watch for individuals who don’t like two-tone watches.
Sporting the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925
I’m a giant fan of the 39mm Longines Spirit. Though it may do with a millimeter or two shaved off the thickness, it wears very nicely. I favor it over the 42mm mannequin, though I can pull off both simply nice. The smaller mannequin appears to be like and feels a bit extra refined, so I recognize that Longines picked it for this particular model.
On the wrist, this appears like a sporty but versatile watch. It neatly combines tool-watch vibes with extra jewelry-esque stylings. I discover that is the case with any Longines Spirit, however the gold right here solely emphasizes this attribute. Crucially, the presence of gold doesn’t compromise its versatility. I discovered the watch to mix with any of my outfits, each purely informal and extra formal.
All in all, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 positively shocked me. It appears to be like good-looking, feels strong, and has the segment-leading ending that helps make any Spirit so good. So, if you’d like a two-tone watch however don’t like two-tone watches a lot, give this a strive. You simply would possibly find yourself loving it. You’ll have to half methods with €4,500 / US$4,350 / £3,750, although.
What do you consider the brand new Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925? Tell us within the feedback part under!
