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Each every so often, an enormous field with Seiko watches arrives on the Fratello workplace. It incorporates the model’s releases for the upcoming months and permits us to overview and {photograph} them forward of time. I nonetheless keep in mind after I found the Seiko SPB317 in there, again in 2022. I instantly fell in love with its comparatively skinny C-shaped case, wrote its introduction article, and ordered one. Nevertheless, I had no concept that the introduction article would find yourself being the very purpose it left my assortment. What started as admiration for Seiko’s fashionable reinterpretation quietly advanced right into a fixation on its supply materials — a journey that finally led me to the classic 6105-8000. In hindsight, the SPB317 wasn’t the vacation spot; it was simply a part of the trail to get there.
That introduction article was additionally my introduction to the classic Seiko 6105-8000. Like many, I used to be conscious of the Captain Willard (reference 6105-8110) from 1970. However I had by no means seen its slimmer counterpart from two years earlier. Its streamlined C-shaped case instantly spoke to me. I didn’t look an excessive amount of into the main points as a result of the trendy re-edition, the SPB317, appeared like a good-enough reinterpretation—till it didn’t.
The Seiko SPB317
With its 41mm C-shaped chrome steel case, the Seiko SPB317 is greater than I’d sometimes put on. Nevertheless, with its streamlined form and the thickness of simply 12.5mm, it wears smaller than you suppose. That’s additionally due to the modest lug span of 46mm. As stated, I used to be instantly attracted by its design and the way it match on my 17cm wrist. I had tried the Doxa Sub 300 Searambler earlier than, which I preferred, however it additionally felt like a bit a lot with the small dial and double bezel. The SPB317 felt like a extra modest model of that.
So, I made a decision to order the SPB317 and wore it with a lot pleasure in the course of the summer season months. It’s a real strap monster, and it will possibly deal with most conditions, besides possibly extra formal ones. And I wasn’t the one one who thought the Turtle Origin, as Seiko calls it, was an ideal watch. The SPB317 made it to the ultimate of our Seiko World Cup. There, it went up towards RJ’s Marinemaster 300 SBDX001. I’m nonetheless impressed that my entry virtually gained.
However there have been definitely additionally issues that aggravated me concerning the Seiko SPB317. From the get-go, I couldn’t perceive why Seiko went for the extra rectangular hour markers as an alternative of the sq. ones on the 6105-8000. Additionally, that round date cutout at 4 thirty can hardly be referred to as a date window. So, I began wanting increasingly more within the path of an authentic 6105-8000.
The Daini Seiko 6105-8000
I observe a few classic Seiko heavy accounts on Instagram. Often, a pleasant instance of the 6105-8000 would cross by on my feed, and I’d seize my SPB317 to nonetheless my starvation. However then I noticed a put up of a Dutch watchmaker who was promoting his Seiko 6105-8000 with lume that become a darkish cream colour. I requested him about it, and he stated it was one of many few (27 recognized examples) 6105-8000 on which the hour markers and arms have been crammed with radium-based lume, which was truly forbidden in Japan in 1969. This was completed at Seiko’s Daini manufacturing facility, which assisted the opposite Suwa manufacturing facility with luming the dials. That’s why the dial has a Suwa signal beneath the “150m waterproof” textual content, but in addition has a Daini-signed winding bridge.
As you may see, I didn’t learn about all these particulars, however I did know that this model of the Seiko 6105-8000 appeared completely stunning, particularly compared with my fashionable SPB317. The old-fashioned utilized Seiko brand and a well-framed date window added to that classic attraction, along with the very sharp and slim C-shaped case. The 41mm diameter is similar; nonetheless, the case itself is barely slimmer as a result of it’s additionally 12.5mm thick, however that features that superbly faceted crystal, which protrudes rather a lot, as an alternative of the flush crystal on the SPB317.
Seiko 6105-8000
Seiko SPB317
The lug span is 2mm longer, and the lug width is 19mm as an alternative of 20 on the trendy model. Nevertheless, it nonetheless wears nice and really flush on my wrist.
Much less succesful, however extra charming
After some negotiating, I made a decision to purchase the classic Seiko 6105-8000, and I’m over the moon with it. The machined case nonetheless feels very sharp, whereas the bezel is a bit unfastened. In fact, this can be a a lot much less succesful watch than the SPB317. It has an older motion with much less energy reserve, no hacking, and no hand-winding. And the water resistance is one thing I’m not going to check, simply to be protected. Nevertheless it seems to be so rattling good. As stated, the SPB317 is a good reinterpretation, however it will possibly’t compete with the 6105’s classic attraction. The sq. hour markers with the pumpkin lume, the signed and absolutely encapsulated unscrewed crown, all of it seems to be so good collectively.
I paid €2,000 for the classic Seiko 6105-8000. That’s dearer than most of Seiko’s vintage-inspired divers, which some individuals already discover too costly. In fact it’s important to determine for your self whether or not you suppose it’s price it. By way of the SPB317 I discovered my favourite Seiko diver when it comes to design. Now that I obtained the unique model, I feel my starvation for Seiko divers is stilled and it’ll take some time earlier than I get uninterested in taking a look at my 6105-8000.
I traded the SPB317 for an additional classic piece
I lived with the trendy and classic variations side-by-side in my assortment for a couple of months. However I made a decision that didn’t make a whole lot of sense. I’d put on the 6105-8000 on a regular basis anyway. That’s why I used to be going to place the SPB317 up on the market on a watch discussion board. Nevertheless, I noticed that somebody was providing a classic Nineteen Fifties Montblanc 242 fountain pen. He stated he was prepared to commerce it for a watch, so I recommended a swap with the SPB317, and we got here to an settlement. So, as an alternative of the watch amassing mud within the watchbox, I now write my notes with a phenomenal grey tiger eye Montblanc pen.
Have you ever ever modified from a contemporary to a classic model of the identical watch? We’d like to listen to your tales within the feedback under.
