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This 12 months, many manufacturers are celebrating completely different milestones. One of the related anniversaries in 2025 is Zenith’s A hundred and sixtieth, which you most likely examine throughout Watches and Wonders. Though it’s a important milestone, Zenith handled us to a really choose variety of anniversary fashions through the truthful. I can drastically admire that as a result of it maintains a robust focus. The watch that drew essentially the most consideration was, no doubt, the brand new Zenith G.F.J. This particular A hundred and sixtieth-anniversary version brings again the legendary Zenith caliber 135. On prime of that, it’s the first mannequin of a full new product line within the model’s assortment. Let’s discover out extra concerning the new Zenith G.F.J.
Within the build-up to Watches and Wonders, Zenith cleverly deleted all of its posts on social media. This began an enormous guessing recreation about what the model had deliberate for its A hundred and sixtieth anniversary at Watches and Wonders. In case you are a Zenith fan, you most likely shortly found out the main target for the Geneva truthful. It was pretty straightforward to acknowledge that Zenith was going to do one thing to focus on its spectacular observe report in observatory chronometer competitions. It’s the model’s “different” massive story subsequent to the legacy of the well-known El Primero calibers. With the brand new G.F.J., Zenith revives the well-known caliber 135. And because it seems, the modernized model of this legendary motion is greater than a one-off.
The Zenith G.F.J. — Bringing one other story to the present catalog
In my introduction article, I already defined the particular story of the Zenith G.F.J. I received’t go over the complete story once more however will keep on with the headlines so we are able to discuss concerning the precise watch. Simply as a reminder, Zenith’s caliber 135 is essentially the most awarded motion from the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions. The entire of 230 chronometry prizes it received through the years continues to be a report to this present day. To be a bit extra correct, that was the caliber 135-O, which the model created solely for chronometry competitions on the Observatories of Neuchâtel, Geneva, Kew Teddington, and Besançon. On prime of that, Zenith additionally made roughly 11,000 common variations of the caliber 135 for standard-production fashions.
Zenith recreated this legendary motion to energy the brand new G.F.J. anniversary version. Nevertheless, the model didn’t neglect to replace its caliber 135, which is sweet as a result of extra fashions will home it. For the brand new model, Zenith stored the traditional structure of the unique caliber intact. What instantly stands out is the outsized steadiness wheel that includes regulation screws, a hairspring with a Breguet overcoil, and the attribute double arrow-shaped regulator for wonderful adjustment.
An up to date Zenith caliber 135
Most significantly, Zenith utterly re-engineered and up to date the motion with fashionable technical options and supplies. First, the facility reserve elevated from 40 hours to 72. This was made attainable by a brand new mainspring that makes use of Générale Ressorts’ Bioflex alloy. Secondly, a brand new gear practice options an optimized tooth geometry to enhance the caliber’s effectivity.
Similar to the classic model, the revamped caliber 135 operates at 18,000vph. Nevertheless, the watchmakers elevated the jewel depend from 19 to 22 to enhance its effectivity. One other fashionable enchancment is the addition of a hacking mechanism. This enables the wearer to set the time precisely to the second. Lastly, the motion is a COSC-certified chronometer, which Zenith regulates to carry out inside ±2 seconds per day.
The signature Zenith “Brick” sample
Zenith engraved the caliber with a “Brick” guilloché sample to spice it up visually. It’s a method of ending that we don’t typically see. It was impressed by the red- and white-painted bricks that type the letters G.F.J. on the Zenith Manufacture. As you most likely know, the initials confer with the model’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. I like this ornamental sample rather a lot as a result of it’s authentic and offers off Artwork Deco vibes. On prime of that, the bricks instantly confer with the world of structure, and I contemplate {that a} good contact.
Contrasting this sample are extra conventional ending types, akin to round satin brushing on the barrel cowl and the black-polished end of the crown wheel. Moreover, the big jewels carry welcome touches of colour. Total, the ending right here provides a pleasant little bit of aptitude to this contemporary model of a traditional motion. The selection that Zenith made to brighten the motion atypically is an strategy that I perceive and love. However if you’re extra into the normal motion ending, this would possibly take some extra time to get used to.
The fantastic attraction of the Zenith G.F.J.
The fashionable model of Zenith’s caliber 135 is housed in a sublime 39.15mm platinum case with a ten.5mm thickness and a forty five.75mm lug-to-lug. The brand new case design strikes an ideal steadiness between classic influences and up to date relevance. It has a properly stepped bezel to provide it character, and the combination of brushed and polished finishes provides some visible brilliance. I really like this case type, and we have now to place it into context as this A hundred and sixtieth-anniversary G.F.J. is not only a one-off. However we are going to get to that in a bit.
Contained in the case lies a dial that solely reveals its true brilliance when you see it in actual life. As I defined, the three-part dial options many beautiful particulars. It begins with the mix of the lapis lazuli heart and the mother-of-pearl small seconds sub-dial. It’s nice to see how effectively the 2 complement one another regardless of their completely different textures and visible presence. Moreover, the lapis lazuli half solely options the utilized Zenith star, the model’s emblem, and the mannequin title. Issues are intentionally stored easy to maximise the affect.
Seeing is believing…
The third half is the blue outer ring with the stamped brick-style sample that additionally graces the motion. This ring holds the utilized, faceted hour markers and a sequence of 40 small hand-applied beads that function minute markers. These well-executed but purposeful particulars add plenty of sophistication to the dial. The skinny, faceted, and pointed baton palms properly spherical out the general aesthetic. They make it straightforward to learn the time whereas sustaining a sublime look. The small seconds hand can be easy in its type, so the mother-of-pearl sub-dial will get most room to shine.
This cleverly designed dial is most actually the nice eye-catcher of this A hundred and sixtieth-anniversary G.F.J. All of us agree right here at Fratello that seeing the watch within the metallic makes all of the distinction. That’s when the small print actually come to life, and the brilliant blue shades make the best affect. I additionally talked about in my intro article that Zenith will create 160 items of this restricted version, every of which is able to come on a blue leather-based strap to match the dial.
The importance of the Zenith G.F.J.
However if you need essentially the most impactful model of this watch, you can too order it on a full-platinum bracelet. We bought a preview of the bracelet in Geneva, and that takes it to a totally completely different stage. The seven-row bracelet is splendidly detailed and tremendous snug, and it elevates the watch’s presence tremendously. Seeing the watch on the bracelet is without doubt one of the many highlights of this 12 months’s Watches and Wonders for me. I used to be mildly excited after I wrote the introduction article primarily based on the press equipment, but it surely didn’t embrace any photos of the bracelet. Nevertheless, I used to be shortly offered after I lastly noticed the watch on the bracelet and all of the completely different particulars that make the dial an absolute pleasure to behold.
That pleasure grew much more when Zenith introduced that the G.F.J. was not a one-off creation. Because the model defined throughout Watches and Wonders, this primary G.F.J. mannequin marks the beginning of a brand new product line. The plan is to launch a minimum of one G.F.J. mannequin powered by the revised caliber 135 per 12 months. Future fashions will function the identical case in numerous valuable metals. Moreover, we are going to see completely different dials for the brand new watches. It’s an thrilling thought, and I can’t wait to see what’s subsequent. Parallel to the introduction of the G.F.J., Zenith additionally introduced that the present Elite line will likely be discontinued. It is sensible because the Elite feels just like the least related product line within the Zenith assortment.
The place the Zenith G.F.J. suits in
Extra importantly, the brand new G.F.J. line provides relevance primarily based on its story and design. I believe it’s a intelligent transfer by Zenith to share its different traditionally necessary story. Caliber 135 has an excellent legacy that exhibits there’s extra to Zenith than the El Primero. On prime of that, it is sensible that the model will make this product line a higher-end proposition altogether. In final week’s Fratello Talks episode recapping Watches and Wonders, Robert-Jan talked about that the G.F.J. line may very well be what the L.U.C assortment is to Chopard, which is a superb thought.
This might permit Zenith to provide you with a sequence of watches powered by the trendy caliber 135 whereas straight tapping into the guts of the model’s historical past. On prime of that, I like the trendy updates and the unimaginable ending of the caliber.
A watch that makes me curious to search out out extra
Gerard talked about in his article masking his favorites of Watches and Wonders that, movement-wise, the G.F.J. shouldn’t be fashionable sufficient to be a successor of something from the previous. I strongly disagree with our resident Fratello veteran on that. The brand new caliber is 100% the trendy model of the traditional Zenith 135. Certain, the structure of a time-only watch shouldn’t be as visually thrilling as a chronograph. Nevertheless, the conclusion that this particular motion was capable of win an astounding variety of observatory chronometer prizes provides its fashionable successor objective and relevance. Whether or not its structure is visually interesting or not turns into a matter of non-public aesthetic style at that time.
With the information that we are able to anticipate extra G.F.J. watches, it instantly makes me wonder if we are going to see completely different finishes and types for upcoming fashions. I’ve gone on report saying that I believe Zenith at the moment has the very best inventive staff within the business and all the time finds nice methods to push boundaries whereas respecting the model’s wealthy historical past. Subsequently, I don’t doubt that we’ll see some extra superior follow-ups to this primary G.F.J. For now, the A hundred and sixtieth-anniversary mannequin is an ideal instance of the work of Zenith’s good inventive staff and one of many nice introductions of this 12 months’s Watches and Wonders.
