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To my longtime buddies within the watch pastime, and maybe to common readers right here as properly, the point out of my title could conjure up quite a few connotations: patron of the independents, fan of A. Lange & Söhne, admirer of Patek Philippe grand issues, and longtime buyer of Jaeger-LeCoultre, amongst different characterizations kind of favorable.
However these probably by no means included classic maven!
Classic catch: Omega Seamaster Skilled 600 Ploprof
Whereas I personal quite a few older watches – some fairly previous, certainly – the nice majority of these had been handed down by my ancestors (see My Grandfather, The Watch Collector) moderately than bought by me.
Through the years, nevertheless, I’ve purchased a number of classic items, and as I’ve had the chance to see and deal with quite a few top-notch older watches on the Geneva auctions (see 12 months-Finish Auctions 2016: I Got here, I Noticed, I Discovered, I Purchased and You Are There: Attending The Solely Watch Public sale 2015 With Patek Philippe) my appreciation for, and curiosity in, the classic scene has elevated considerably.
At the least in the meanwhile, the end result of that curiosity was the acquisition of a beautiful Patek Philippe Reference 1526 on the November 2016 Phillips public sale. However earlier than we discuss that, let’s flip again the clock and take a look at my different classic purchases and see what I’ve realized to this point.
Omega Seamaster Ploprof 600m
Whereas I’ve been a fan of Omega ever since boyhood evenings in entrance of the tv watching Olympic broadcasts, and have owned a number of of the model’s watches over time, the one I’ve purchased and held is the Seamaster Ploprof.
Actual wrist presence: Omega Seamaster Ploprof
For me, to see it was to find it irresistible!
In 2004, I used to be rising from a quiet interval of a number of years in my watch ardour with a number of centered purchases and as soon as I noticed pictures of the Ploprof, which derives from the French time period PLOngeur PROFessionnel (“skilled diver”), I knew that I needed to have one.
A number of searches and conversations later, I had discovered a really nice-looking, freshly serviced piece with some right updates to the palms and bezel in addition to all the unique components in small packets. The deal was executed.
Again then, I knew even much less about classic watches than I do now; and I used to be very glad to have a watch combining a really clear unique dial with factory-fresh alternative palms; obsessing about absolute correctness and its impact on future worth was not even on my radar.
And, it’s an incredible watch!
The Ploprof is large back and forth however not from backside to high, and the bracelet curves instantly down from the perimeters of the case, making it put on fairly comfortably.
There are cool options just like the bracelet extender permitting the watch to be worn over a dive go well with and the trademark orange button maintaining the bezel from turning inadvertently throughout a dive. And it gives some type choices as properly with hyperlink, mesh, and Isofrane bracelets.
Mixture of unique and proper alternative parts: Omega Seamaster Ploprof
Coinciding with my normal expertise with Omegas, it retains glorious time and it’s a sturdy watch, too. A fast-set date could be the one enchancment I’d need, however then once more there’s a sure period-correct pleasure in operating the palms forwards and backwards from 10:00 pm to 1:00 am to advance the date.
There could by no means be a “Ploprof Tuesday” (for an evidence of that reference, see Social Media Phenomenon Conjures up New Omega Speedmaster), however at the least to this point for me this specific Seamaster scratches an itch that the varied Speedmasters don’t.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Futurematic and LeCoultre Women’ watch
As a long-time JLC fanatic, I had been conscious of the Futurematic however solely noticed one within the steel for the primary time about seven years in the past on the wrist of a great pal who owns a splendid assortment of classic items, together with many uncommon ones.
Whereas, like many others, I’d thought-about the unique Geophysic and Polaris on the pinnacle of potential Jaeger-LeCoultre classic purchases, my encounter with the Futurematic modified my perspective.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Futurematic Jumbo in chrome steel
Just like the Ploprof, it has its quirks: the Futurematic has no seen crown and actually can’t be wound by hand in any respect.
There’s a disk on the again of the case that’s used to set the time, however that doesn’t connect with any sort of winding mechanism; and since the shaft of that disk penetrates via the motion, the automated winding mechanism utilized by the motion is a “bumper” weight, bouncing back and forth with a satisfying thump.
The cleverness doesn’t cease there, although: when the watch is totally wound (as confirmed by the facility reserve indicator on the dial) the thumping stops because the bumper is securely held in place till the watch is partially unwound once more.
I had been on the prowl for a Futurematic for a number of years once I stumbled throughout an exquisite chrome steel Jumbo model at Paris classic seller Antoine de Macedo’s store a few years in the past.
As you may see within the pictures, Antoine had executed an incredible job of cleansing up the watch whereas leaving the patina on the numerals and palms intact. The sides of the case and lugs are superbly sharp.
Clear and crisp: the creator’s classic Jaeger-LeCoultre Futurematic
I additionally appreciated the way in which that the 37 mm case seemed on my wrist. Whereas I admired the balanced look of the dial it wasn’t till later that I realized that this specific mixture of palms and Arabic numerals is just not solely uncommon, however right for the watch.
The worth on provide was a bit above what I’d anticipated, however given the situation and look of the piece and its place in Jaeger-LeCoultre lore it wasn’t lengthy earlier than I used to be strolling the streets of Paris with it on my wrist.
MrsGaryG will get in on the classic act: LeCoultre girls’ watch in white gold
MrsGaryG wasn’t disregarded of the classic JLC enjoyable, both: whereas skimming eBay one night I noticed an enthralling white gold LeCoultre girls’ piece at a really affordable worth. And earlier than you may say “Purchase It Now,” it was on its option to us.
His and hers: classic LeCoultre watches
Patek Philippe Reference 1526 pink gold
If the Omega and Jaeger-LeCoultre items might be thought-about enjoyable methods to dip my toe into the classic pool, I really dove into the deep finish late in 2016 with my buy of an instance of the first-ever serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatch, the Patek Philippe Reference 1526.
Ticking legend: the primary serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatch, Patek Philippe Reference 1526
I’m typically fairly considerate (translation: obsessive) about my deliberations on shopping for a watch, however this was as near an impulse purchase, particularly at this worth level, because it will get for me.
I actually didn’t have any clear understanding of the Patek Philippe perpetual calendars previous to 1962’s Reference 3448 till I noticed this traditional magnificence within the case on the Phillips preview.
I attempted it on as soon as, then once more, then but once more as I fell hopelessly in love; after which started a cram course to study extra about early Patek Philippe perpetual calendars and the 1526 specifically from my buddies each at Phillips and on the Geneva Patek Philippe Salon.
True hand-craftsmanship: dial element, Patek Philippe Reference 1526 displaying date, seconds, and moon section
Particularly, I used to be curious as to why a Reference 1526 in glorious situation, and a uncommon pink gold instance at that, was valued at a fraction of the price of the References 2497 and 2438/1 that outmoded it within the line of Patek Philippe perpetual calendars.
The reason was less complicated than I assumed: the 34 mm case dimension is presently out of style.
Little large watch: the creator’s uncommon pink gold Patek Philippe Reference 1526
On my wrist, nevertheless, the mixture of lengthy lugs and small bezel make the watch put on greater than its precise dimension, and when everybody started utilizing phrases like “undervalued” and “most under-appreciated Patek Philippe perpetual calendar,” my thoughts was made up.
Occasions on the public sale went my method, and now I suppose I’m nearer to being a “classic man!”
Classic enchantment: champlevé dial and hand-formed palms of the Patek Philippe Reference 1526 in pink gold
Having fun with the classic scene
For me, the enjoyment of testing the classic waters is that, in some ways, it’s like beginning the educational journey of watch amassing once more.
Whereas I’m constructing a rudimentary appreciation for the “guidelines” of not getting damage with classic (situation, correctness, and rarity come to thoughts), I’m nonetheless at a degree at which I’m actually shopping for what I really like moderately than being influenced an excessive amount of by others’ views of what I ought to be fancying.
Parting shot: crown and case element, Patek Philippe Reference 1526 in pink gold
I can think about that because the years go, I could regulate and finally refocus my portfolio to concentrate on fewer big-ticket up to date items and a bigger variety of inexpensive, wearable classic items.
For now, although, I’ve the posh of making an attempt each, and I’m having a blast.
Fast Information Omega Seamaster Skilled 600 Ploprof Ref. 166.0077
Case: monobloc chrome steel, 45 x 54 x 15 mm, with anti-reflective mineral crystal; bi-directional rotating locking chrome steel bezel; waterproof to 600 meters; sq. crown with knurled locking ring
Dial: painted steel dial with luminous tritium markers; “Plongeur” palms with luminous highlights (unique palms tritium, Omega service palms Tremendous-LumiNova); black-on-silver date show at 3 o’clock
Motion: computerized Omega 1002
Capabilities: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Years of manufacturing: 1970-1979
Latest sale costs: $6,000 to $8,000, relying on situation; Ploprof prototype bought for CHF 87,500 at Sotheby’s in November 2016
Fast Information Jaeger-LeCoultre Futurematic Jumbo
Case: chrome steel, 37 x 10.7 mm; setting crown on rear of case, acrylic crystal
Dial: silver dial with painted and luminous markers; blued palms with luminous hour and minute palms
Motion: computerized JLC Caliber 497 “bumper” motion with hacking seconds; governor on winding mechanism when totally wound, 40-hour energy reserve
Capabilities: hours, minutes, small seconds; energy reserve indication
Years of manufacturing: 1953-1962
Latest sale costs: $2,500 to $8,500, relying on situation
Fast Information LeCoultre Women’ Watch
Case: 14-karat white gold, 15 x 24 mm
Dial: silver dial with silver-tone hour and minute palms; utilized sq. and spherical hour markers
Motion: guide winding LeCoultre Cal. 490/BW, 17 jewels; marked VXN to indicate Vacheron Constantin manufacturing unit provenance
Estimated manufacturing date: Nineteen Fifties
Estimated worth: $400 to $800
Fast Information Patek Philippe Reference 1526 Pink Gold
Case: pink gold, 34 mm
Dial: gold dial with champlevé enamel numerals and minute tracks; utilized pink gold dots and Arabic numerals; gold moon disk with hand-applied fired blue enamel background; hammered gold palms with blued hand for date
Capabilities: hours, minutes, small seconds; date, moon section, day, month
Motion: manually wound Caliber 12”120 Q, Victorin Piguet base motion
Manufacturing quantity: 210 whole examples of Reference 1526 together with all metals, with a small minority in pink gold
Manufacturing years: 1941-1952
Latest public sale worth: 150,000 Swiss francs
* This text was first revealed on March 17, 2017
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