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Andrew O’Connor
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut is considered one of my all-time favorite watches. Once I advised this to a fellow watch-obsessed buddy of mine, it was met with a glance that implied questioning my style whereas he set free the flattest “that’s cool” I’ve heard shortly. I’ve been lucky sufficient to even deal with the precise model I’d like to have, the ref. 5165A-001. With barely lowered proportions with no compromises that I can see on the unique design, it aligns completely with my wrist put on preferences.
However what does this gushing over a stainless-steel time-only watch should do with something related or attention-grabbing? Particularly when love for metal sports activities watches remains to be sturdy. Effectively, I’ve come to a really long-winded realisation that I feel is just not typically acknowledged, however could also be right here to remain. Patek Philippe sport watches will not be for me, and doubtless not for you both, and that’s okay. Right here’s my logic.
Somewhat historic context
In some ways, the discharge of Patek Philippe’s Nautilus in 1976 was largely reactionary. With the world turning into more and more informal, different manufacturers releasing their built-in bracelet sport fashions (most notably Audemars Piguet and their Royal Oak) and a shifting watch market with quartz on the rise, the Nautilus was aimed to draw a distinct clientele. The Aquanaut, alternatively, was launched in 1997 as a sports activities mannequin for established collectors – the Patek Philippe for those who have already got some heavy-duty horological firepower within the watch secure.
As watch amassing has shifted within the twenty first century, the keenness round metal Pateks (and metal sport watches normally) has gained the majority of watch fanatic consideration. Previous to 2019, it most likely was not unusual for somebody to say a Nautilus ref. 5711 was their grail watch – and it’s nonetheless a rattling high quality watch. That being stated, Patek Philippe as a model has one thing to say about that.
One other lucky expertise I’ve had is visiting the Patek Philippe museum in Geneva. They’ve carried out such an exquisite job with the museum that even my spouse, who doesn’t care about watches, loved the tour and the assorted shows. Our tour gave us an awesome sense of not solely the model’s historical past, but additionally a historical past of horology, timepieces, and watchmaking in Geneva, overlaying all the pieces from early pendant watches from the sixteenth century, to JFK’s desk clock and Duke Ellington’s private watch, to their fashionable masterpieces of extremely sophisticated timepieces. Historic and complex references made up the majority of the museum, together with automatons, minute repeaters, advanced calendars, twin and world time references, and chronographs.
Nevertheless, there was just one small show for the unique Nautilus, with solely a small placard giving a short historical past of the mannequin. As soon as our tour group reached this show, half of them disappeared. You imply to inform me that half of my tour group made their approach to the museum, solely to see one metal watch? The dearth of emphasis on Nautilus within the museum additionally appears to be indicative of the model’s intent on holding them as purchasers.
Stern on metal
As a model, Patek Philippe has all the time been about high-end watchmaking, and in a really conventional sense. This implies their focus is costume watches and issues, normally carried out in treasured metals. The deal with treasured metals initially had little to do with exclusivity and as an alternative had extra to do with the truth that gold was a a lot simpler metallic to work with. Mass-produced stainless-steel watches weren’t a viable choice till roughly midway into the twentieth century, and Patek had been making watches lengthy earlier than that time. Whereas there is a component of exclusivity immediately, it’s also a nod to custom. So when it was introduced that the 5711 was going to be discontinued, Thierry Stern made a remark to the impact of “our model is just not stainless-steel sport watches.”
Many manufacturers noticed a speedy rise within the worth of their watches on the secondary market in the course of the COVID-19 pandemic. Widespread watches rose to unheard of costs, in some circumstances including an extra zero to the value tag. The 5711 was a type of watches, and the secondary market costs weren’t helped by the discontinuation of the mannequin. Whereas secondary sellers have been having a grand ol’ time, manufacturers undoubtedly noticed cash being left on the desk, whether or not or not they voiced their dismay. Patek Philippe and Rolex appeared to shift their focus with new fashions in direction of treasured metallic sport watches. I think about the logic was that manufacturers noticed what folks have been prepared to pay, they usually responded by providing one thing nearer to that worth level. Nevertheless, the place Rolex continues to supply all kinds of metal sport watches, Patek Philippe has a distinct technique.
Within the years which have adopted for the reason that discontinuation of the metal 5711, Patek Philippe has launched a great variety of “sports activities” watches, however issues have modified. Initially, no extra metal. Or, no less than, loads much less metal. The majority of each the present Nautilus and Aquanaut ranges at the moment are made in treasured metals. For the Aquanaut, the entire sophisticated fashions are in treasured metals, and for the Nautilus, only some metal sophisticated fashions stay within the catalogue. Additionally, in 2024, Patek revised their water resistance rankings, that means all fashions are rated to solely 3 bars of water resistance (or much less). And that’s even with a screw-down crown! Beforehand, each the Aquanaut and Nautilus had pretty substantial water resistance rankings, sufficient to encourage aquatic utilization with most homeowners. Whereas I’m positive the development of those watches has not modified, Patek Philippe’s literature round these watches has.
Swiss silliness
Then issues begin to get a bit wild, no less than by Genevan watchmaking requirements. There may be now a reduced-sized Aquanaut with an annual calendar, however in rose gold and marketed in direction of female purchasers. There may be an Aquanaut with a minute repeater, the Grand Problems ref. 5260/1455R-001, however once more in gold, closely gem-set, with a completely gem-set model out there with a gem-set bracelet. These high-end items was once listed on their web site as “worth on request,” however Patek now publishes costs for all their items. A gold, gem-set, gold minute repeater Aquanaut on a rubber strap will set one again over US$1 million. Need the complete bling therapy of a gem-set bracelet? Over US$3.3 million.
Issues have additionally continued to escalate with the discharge of the Cubitus. A extra sq. design, minimal enhancements over the earlier Nautilus, and a steep worth improve from the 5711 (evaluating the angle metal fashions) raised eyebrows from the watch neighborhood. Thierry Stern made some daring remarks, typically unprecedented from a Swiss watch model chief, telling the watch world that those that are complaining concerning the Cubitus will possible by no means be capable to buy one, and never due to pettiness on behalf of the model. As you’ll keep in mind, these feedback didn’t go down properly.
Why Patek stays away from metal
So what offers? Why would a model not solely restrict their hottest mannequin, however seemingly push purchasers away who can be curious about solely these common metal fashions? As a result of these stainless-steel fashions will not be for most individuals: they’re for his or her established purchasers. Thierry Stern, and I’m positive different folks at Patek Philippe, noticed the model picture transferring away from what they’re so pleased with, and in direction of a public picture of a model recognized for a singular mannequin (or a pair of fashions, for those who take into account the Aquanaut in addition to the Nautilus). Not solely do they wish to keep away from the lure that different manufacturers have fallen into, however they do have a powerful historical past to be pleased with, constructed upon high-end, classical watchmaking.
They need the general public to know that, and want that from them. If you’d like an entry level into the model, they need you to have a look at their time-only fashions (and perhaps a few of their sophisticated fashions) earlier than transferring into their Grand Problems. Then they may fortunately promote you a metal Aquanaut to your subsequent tropical trip. In the event you occur to be a ride-or-die on sport watches, and have deep sufficient pockets to pay for the stratospheric secondary market costs of a metal time-only watch, they now have gold sophisticated sport watches. The 5811 is now white gold, and the Aquanaut Journey Time can be now white gold. And in case your tastes are gauche sufficient to assume a minute repeating Aquanaut on a rubber strap is a good suggestion, it would even be gold and lined in rubies.
In an try and put it properly, that is Patek Philippe pricing their choices in a approach to information your consideration to what they wish to be doing. They’ve recognised the market significance of extra informal watches. They may then make them on their phrases, and worth them in a manner that implies a mindset of: ‘if that is what you need, that is what we’re prepared to supply and what it would value. If you’d like a high-end metal sports activities watch, and solely that, there are different manufacturers prepared to facilitate your request.’
Closing ideas
As somebody who actually does love the Aquanaut, am I disheartened? Not likely. I’ve realised that these watches will not be actually for me, and that’s okay. Principally due to my lot in life, I’ll possible by no means be capable to afford any of those watches. Even when issues change, based mostly on the present catalogue providing, I’d possible chase down a 3970 and 5165A, as I discussed earlier, earlier than visiting a boutique for a model new mannequin, as a result of these fashions enchantment to me extra.
As a artistic, I do have quite a lot of respect for Thierry Stern and Patek Philippe – if my interpretation of their technique is certainly appropriate. Whereas industrial viability is necessary in some ways, having to sacrifice artistic imaginative and prescient and objectives to cater (and probably pander) to patrons is just not probably the most satisfying path by way of life. Whereas I’d actually like to see a metal Aquanaut minute repeater, or perhaps a white gold model with a black dial and no gems (okay, perhaps baguette indices can be cool), they may possible by no means try this, and that’s okay. I respect that there’s a clear model imaginative and prescient, and the group at Patek Philippe is doing what they assume is greatest to attain that.
