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Borna Bošnjak
Whereas Switzerland is thought to be the high-end watchmaking epicentre, it wasn’t all the time so. Together with many English watchmakers, it was France that led the way in which in making strides in chronometric invention. Within the late 18th century, Paris was house to a few historic greats – Abraham-Louis Breguet, Ferdinand Berthoud, and Jean-Antonie Lépine, together with different notable contemporaries, such because the inventor of detent escapement Pierre Le Roy, who grew to become largely forgotten over the centuries.
Right this moment, a lot of French watchmaking is targeted on the entry stage, with microbrands reminiscent of Baltic and Serica, although there’s additionally a fair proportion of haute horlogerie makers able to producing their very own actions, too. Let’s get into the 19 you must definitely take note of, in alphabetical order.
Auffret Paris
We start with one of many rising younger stars of French impartial watchmaking. Théo Auffret studied underneath Jean-Baptiste Viot and apprenticed at Luca Soprana’s Ateliers 7h38, finally profitable F.P. Journe’s Younger Expertise Competitors in 2018 with the fantastic Tourbillon à Paris depicted above. The restricted first run was extremely profitable, and Auffret’s second launch was the Tourbillon Grand Sport, incomes him a nomination on the GPHG awards. Impressed by the likes of Journe and Viot, Auffret’s items additionally tribute early French masters like Breguet and Berthoud – however it’s not simply all classical and high-end. Together with Guillaume Laidet, Auffret additionally runs SpaceOne watches, a microbrand specializing in making high-end problems and ending as inexpensive as attainable.
Borna’s decide: Auffret Tourbillon à Paris. Worth: €108,000 (~US$117,000)
Baltic
Because the Kickstarter launch, Baltic has had the classic re-issue appears on lock, whatever the assortment that you simply’re . Whether or not you’re after a stealthy discipline watch, Artwork Deco micro-rotor, or decadent cocktail watch, Baltic has bought you lined. It’s one of many microbrands that bought the design proper from the outset, and has change into an enormous within the house (pun totally meant) – and we’re fairly keen on them at T+T.
Borna’s decide: Baltic Prismic with mesh bracelet. Worth: US$1,300, from the Time+Tide Store
Beaubleu
With a lot focus just lately being on design-first, impartial manufacturers, I’m shocked that Beaubleu hasn’t been given extra consideration, particularly so with their Seconde Française watches that use France Ebauche actions. The model has been round for eight years now, with their calling card being the recognisable, round handset and modernised, disco volante-like case. I’m particularly keen on their newest, limited-edition launch – the aforementioned Seconde Française. For starters, the France Ebauche make sense provided that Beaubleu is a French firm, and would possibly sign a real return to type from the motion maker that used to provide tens of hundreds of thousands of actions simply thirty years in the past. Second, it takes Beaubleu’s handset to the subsequent stage, utilizing a clear disc for the seconds and giving it a floating look. What can I say? I’m a sucker for a thriller dial.
Borna’s decide: Beaubleu Seconde Française. Worth: €1,490
Bell & Ross
Starting as a college venture greater than 30 years in the past, Bell & Ross watches had been initially made by German makers Sinn, earlier than shifting manufacturing to Switzerland after Chanel acquired a stake. Finest identified for the sq. Instrument watches, Bell & Ross’ assortment is split into 5 fundamental traces additionally together with City, Classic, Idea, and Haute Horlogerie. The current collaborations with Kenissi counsel the model will probably be shifting away from entry-level Sellita choices, making them much more interesting to lovers on the lookout for one thing completely different – particularly if you happen to’re after lume.
Borna’s decide: Bell & Ross BR 03 Black Matte. Worth: US$4,100
Cartier
Very similar to Bell & Ross and a few others on this record, Cartier’s watch manufacturing is Swiss-based, however the coronary heart of the corporate is most definitely Parisian – though a few of their most vital watches had been designed in London, however that’s a narrative for an additional time. Based in Paris in 1847, the title would change into broadly identified solely by the shut of the nineteenth century because of the founder’s grandsons – Louis, Pierre and Jacques. Cartier has exploded in recognition in current instances because of its concentrate on formed instances and is likely one of the uncommon manufacturers that may declare to have produced a number of iconic designs – Tank, Santos, Pasha – to call just a few.
Borna’s decide: Cartier Privé Normale in platinum. Worth: US$$53,500
Lecomte
As somebody who teaches on the Lycée Edgar Faure (France’s principal watchmaking college) and has taught Remy Cools and Théo Auffret a factor or two, Florent Lecomte is definitely able to making stunning watches. Shock shock – he does – although it’s not one thing he pursued till the COVID pandemic put a cease to instructing. As chances are you’ll anticipate from a younger, impartial watchmaker specializing in classical watches, Breguet is a giant affect, as is 18th-century watchmaking on the whole. Lecomte produces most elements in-house no matter complexity, the steadiness wheel of the Sequence 2 being one instance, cementing the fundamentals such because the gear prepare in Unitas structure. Along with his first two fashions bought out, the third sequence will function a retrograde minutes and leaping hours show, with pricing particulars not but revealed.
Borna’s decide: Lecomte Sequence 1. Worth: ranging from €4,000, bought out (~US$4,500)
Leroy
How a few title that was doubtless important for watchmaking progress, however has fallen to Twentieth-century challenges – although this time, not the quartz disaster. The model was named after Basile-Charles Le Roy, son of Basile Le Roy. Although neither hailed from a watchmaking background, they shared a surname with a father and son duo that had been thought to be high watchmakers of the time – Julien and Pierre Le Roy, watchmakers to the king, with Le Roy Jr additionally inventing the detent escapement. The corporate stayed within the Le Roy household for a while, earlier than being bought to Casimir Desfontaines in 1845, although the title Leroy stayed. Ultimately, Desfontaines would move, and the corporate can be inherited by one other Leroy – Louis – whose title the model would bear even after being taken over by the Festina group in 2004.
Leroy has made some makes an attempt to reinvent itself, most notably and most just lately in 2015 with the Chronometre Observatoire OnlyWatch, although the L200 motion proved too expensive to provide. However, the restricted manufacturing runs of high-end tourbillons and jewelry items are arduous to come back by these days, although the model is planning a comeback within the second half of 2024.
Borna’s decide: L. Leroy Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon. Worth on request
Lip
Doing a whole 180 by way of design language, we have a look at Lip, definitely best-known for the economic, square-but-round items with funky pushers and crowns. One of the best instance of that is the March 2000 Chronograph, designed by Roger Tallon and initially powered by a manually wound Valjoux calibre. Happily for individuals who want to stray away from the potential, and let’s face it, extremely doubtless, aches of proudly owning a classic chronograph, Lip gives a classic re-issue powered by a quartz motion. Although it’s considerably dear for what it’s, retailing for €449 on the Lip web site, completely nothing else appears prefer it, making it a worthwhile consideration in my opinion.
Borna’s decide: Lip Mach 2000 Chronograph. Worth: €449 (~US$500)
Maison Alcée
Have you ever ever wished to have a DIY expertise that was greater than a easy equipment or scrapping collectively some modded Seiko elements? Clearly, Alcée Montfort thought the identical and used her information of working with Cartier and TAG Heuer to create the Percée clock. With the assistance of one other Lycée Edgar Faure trainer, this time Thierry Ducret, they assembled a do-it-yourself equipment that anybody can assemble at house with a little bit of time and endurance. The elements are well-finished, and trickier elements just like the regulator come pre-assembled, with non-compulsory upgrades to a chiming complication, and even a watchmaker’s bench as an added accent. This novel concept earned the model the Audacity Prize on the 2023 version of the GPHGs.
Borna’s decide: Maison Alcée Percée. Worth: ranging from €5,500
Montre Lefrançois
25 years of any form of watchmaking expertise is spectacular sufficient for a budding impartial, however for one which’s labored for Vianney Halter (at 19 years outdated, thoughts you) and restored for Vacheron Constantin, it feels prefer it’s solely a matter of time earlier than they discover success. For his first solo effort, Simon Lefrançois targeted on the design, at first. In an surroundings the place impartial watches rely a lot on that side, it’s a wise transfer, and his Automatique is definitely a good-looking, if uncommon, watch. The 38mm x 7.4mm case is as well-proportioned as it’s difficult, and although it’s solely utilizing a bog-standard ETA 2892 in the intervening time, Lefrançois already has plans for a brand new manually wound motion.
Borna’s decide: Montre Lefrançois Automatique No. 1. Worth: on request
Pequignet
It’s been greater than a decade since Pequignet launched its in-house Calibre Royal, and the Morteau-based producer has been profiting from it since. A lot of the motion’s elements are provided by French companions, and its ending is kind of spectacular – chamfering, striping, perlage and a soleil-brushed, hulking gold barrel offering 88 hours of energy reserve. On the flip aspect, a lot of the Royale assortment is classically impressed, although there are many sporty choices too, fitted on rubber straps and with appropriate water resistance rankings. The true revelation is that the entire Royale fashions, save for 3 valuable steel references, retail for €10,000 or (comfortably) much less. Think about some second-hand depreciation, and there appears to be loads of worth right here.
Borna’s decide: Pequignet Royale Paris. Worth: €8,000 (~US$8,700)
Remy Cools
Bear in mind how I discussed F.P. Journe’s Younger Expertise competitors? Effectively, it simply so occurs that in the identical yr Théo Auffret gained, Remy Cools was additionally awarded the prize for his tourbillon-equipped college watch. Having graduated from the identical Morteau college, it’s this watch that impressed his first serial launch, the Tourbillon Souscription, which developed into the Tourbillon Atelier, with enhancements throughout the board. The case is extra wearable, with Cools choosing a standard 3 o’clock crown versus the flip tabs on the caseback of his prior designs, however not compromising on ending. All the watch is hand-made and completed by Cools and his associate, with an aesthetic paying homage to Breguet and Daniels.
Borna’s decide: Remy Cools Tourbillon Atelier. Worth: €159,000 (~US$173,000)
Sartory Billard
Extant within the micro-independent sphere since 2015, Sartory Billard has made its title in providing extremely customisable items at inexpensive costs. That doesn’t fairly inform the complete story, however let’s simply say that you could possibly inform Armand Billard that you simply’d like that watch you noticed on Instagram, however with an aventurine and lapis dial, fitted in a tantalum case, with Jap Arabic numerals. His response is greater than more likely to be “bien sûr!” Provided both with two grades of La Joux-Perret actions, the SB04, SB05, and SB07 have been the model’s bread and butter, with spectacular suppliers reminiscent of Comblémine and Voutilainen & Cattin producing sure elements.
In the previous couple of years, nevertheless, Sartory Billard additionally expanded into the haute horlogerie realm with its personal tourbillon actions and the distinctive use of sapphire. Watches just like the SB06 mix a flying tourbillon with both a 12 or 24-hour time show, however the sapphire bridges on the again are my private favorite. The model’s newest venture, the SB08 and its leaping hour mechanism, got here to be in essentially the most distinctive approach, with motion prototypist Mathieu Cleguer responding to SB’s Instagram request to develop the motion, as soon as once more with extra sapphire bridges added to the combination.
Borna’s decide: I’d have to assume loads tougher about this one, however most likely a tantalum SB05. Worth: ranging from €9,280 (~US$10,000)
Semper & Adhuc
Semper & Adhuc shouldn’t be an organization that makes classic reissues, however one way or the other, their watches handle to seize the appeal of classic watches in a contemporary package deal. It’s not simply the font and parchment-like dials, but in addition the beating hearts of the watches themselves. Slightly than going to one of many massive weapons of third-party motion provide à la Seiko or Miyota, Semper & Adhuc sources classic Swiss actions, most frequently A. Schild’s AS1012, and offers them a brand new lease on life.
Borna’s decide: Semper & Adhuc L’Inopinée Originale. Worth: €2,000 (~US$2,200)
Serica
Serica isn’t a brand-new microbrand, although ITS time within the limelight got here with its second launch, the 5303, a profitable follow-up to the 4512 discipline watch. The model additionally gives a GMT powered by the Soprod C125, taking the styling of the 5303 and including a cool lollipop-style GMT hand. The entire watches in Serica’s assortment are clearly vintage-inspired however handle to retain a number of the quirkiness that usually will get misplaced with (too) rigorously thought-out and corporate-driven launches.
Borna’s decide: Serica 5303 Diving Chronometer. Worth: €1,490 (~US$1,620)
Sylvain Pinaud
Although his workshop is in Switzerland, Sylvain Pinaud’s beginnings very a lot qualify him as a French watchmaker. His introduction into watchmaking, the Monopoussoir Chronograph, maybe deserved extra consideration than simply profitable a French nationwide competitors. However, Pinaud had an ace up his sleeve, revealed in early 2022. The Origine was proof that Pinaud is likely one of the most enjoyable new independents round, having minimize his tooth underneath restoring specialist Dominique Mouret in addition to Franck Muller. “Handcrafted” is proudly displayed on the sub-dial, hinting on the period of time it should’ve taken to grain, polish, and bevel to this stage.
Borna’s decide: Sylvain Pinaud Origine. Worth: ranging from CHF 65,000 (~US$70,500)
Trilobe
Not like many different impartial startup founders on this record, Gautier Massonneau shouldn’t be a watchmaker by commerce. Quitting his financial institution job in 2016, he launched Trilobe two years later and succeeded in instantly differentiating his model because of the signature three-ring show. Initially modifying customary Swiss base calibres with the assistance of Chronode, Trilobe grew to become yet one more model to make use of the providers of Le Cercle des Horlogers, growing the X-Centric micro-rotor calibre that’s now used throughout all of its collections.
Borna’s decide: Trilobe Une Folle Journée Dune. Worth: €23,500 (~US$25,500)
Yema
Yema is a model that’s combating tooth and nail to make France extra recognised as a watchmaking centre. The model has lengthy supplied an in-house motion within the YEMA2000, into which it poured hundreds of thousands of Euros which is principally extraordinary for a model that many contemplate a micro. Doubling down on this concept of complete independence, the Besançon-based watchmaker launched the Olivier Mory-designed Morteau 20, an ultra-thin micro-rotor motion principally produced in its Morteau workshops. Yema nonetheless depends on motion companions for sure collections – notably ETA for the newest hand-wound City Area assortment.
Borna’s decide: Yema Superman Pores and skin Diver Slim CMM.20. Worth: US$2,249
ZRC
If I requested you a few watch issued to the Marine Nationale, you’d doubtless consider Tudor’s pale blue Submariner and its snowflake palms, or maybe the Doxa Divingstar Marine Nationale, however my guess is that ZRC gained’t get too many shouts. At first look, what an odd watch that is. I picked out the Grands Fonds, because it resembles ZRC’s ’60s choices most intently, although the curious look is constant all through the gathering. The form is paying homage to a pores and skin diver, however with the crown cajoled in between the lugs at 6 o’clock, and what even is that bracelet? The look comes from its advanced engineering, because it’s adjustable on-the-fly for expeditions requiring a wetsuit, but in addition attributable to its built-in spring system that stretches and contracts to completely match the wearer’s wrist.
Borna’s decide: ZRC Grands Fonds Réédition. Worth: CHF 3,690 (~US$4,200)
