Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 5327BR/1E/9V6 Reviewed by Tim Mosso

Breguet – the model – wants your love. Regardless of wonderful merchandise, a wealthy historical past, important funding, and monetary stability, the corporate bearing this trade’s most illustrious identify typically ranks among the many most nameless within the house.

Besieged by institution powerhouses like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, overshadowed by hip independents, and undermined by extreme availability, the fashionable Breguet model can construct a marvel just like the Classique Quantième Perpétuel 5327 and obtain basically no credit score for its work.

That should change.

Amongst watch collectors, there’s a normal notion that main teams are poisonous to high quality and soul. Judging by the 5327, the final notion is useless flawed.

Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 5327BR/1E/9V6

If this machine had emerged from the atelier of Grönefeld, J.N. Shapiro, or Roger W. Smith, I’m positive the collective would fawn over the factor whereas gearing as much as blow six-figure holes within the checking accounts of lucky souls.

Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 5327BR/1E/9V6

However whereas the deserves are actual, used costs linger 1000’s beneath metal Rolex Daytona cash. Advertising and marketing errors clarify the disparity, however the high quality speaks for itself.

Now that we’re previous the perfunctory acknowledgement of Breguet’s market morass we are able to converse solely to the virtues at hand. And a substantial amount of the credit score for this Breguet belongs to a person whose identify is nowhere to be seen on the dial: Daniel Roth.

Ols College: Daniel Roth designs all the things on paper

Roth joined the modern-era Breguet firm within the early Nineteen Seventies following the Chaumet takeover of the dying French establishment. Relocation to Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux and a brand new deal with luxe wristwatches revitalized the outdated marque and set it on a long-term collision course with the long run Swatch Group.

However from 1973 to the Chaumet brothers’ scandal-fueled 1987 demise, Roth was a artistic powerhouse serving to to craft the fashionable aesthetic of the Breguet model.

Breguet Perpetual calendar Ref. 3310 developed below Daniel Roth

Perpetual calendar 3310 arrived as Roth departed to launch his eponymous model in 1987 (now owned by Bulgari), and its primary look remained unchanged even because it morphed into the bigger 5327 in 2004.

Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 5327BR/1E/9V6

At 39mm, the 5327 is bigger than its 36mm predecessor, however the measurement stays a throwback to a kinder and gentler period of costume watches. From the skin working inward, Breguet equips a case with cold-rolled and hand-finished coining; last cleanup of the case flanks was carried out in particular jig.

Lugs, crown and caseband of the Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 5327

The lugs are welded into place within the time-honored custom of handbook case-craft, and the hand-filed seams between lugs and flanks are arrow-straight. And since spring bars can turn out to be a legal responsibility over time or when poorly seated, Breguet employed screws, bars, and set screws to maintain the Classique Quantième Perpétuel (QPC) firmly anchored to its proprietor.

Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 5327BR/1E/9V6

Dial facet, the CQP is the other of minimalist. As with historic Breguet pocket watches, a multiplicity of subdials litter the watch face whereas embracing calculated asymmetry.

There’s no scarcity of knowledge, however the sheer visible stimulus masks the 2 most interesting qualities of the dial; it’s product of stable 18-karat gold, and the guilloché is hand-turned on handbook lathes.

Breguet secret signature engraved on the dial of the Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 5327BR/1E/9V6

 A number of totally different guilloché patterns improve the decadence of an already wealthy dish. The “secret signature” flanking numeral XII is much less of a secret and extra of a branding train today, however the pantograph-etched script nonetheless provides a welcome human contact to the steely silver dial.

Elegantly engraved curves on the moonphase disk of the Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 5327

Extra graces embody a moon with physiognomies and fired blue metal arms.

Mechanically, the Breguet caliber 502 DRP1 is predicated on a high-grade Frédéric Piguet P-71 computerized. Like most machines coined in the course of the Chaumet/Roth period – and later Roth’s private model – the 3310 and 5327 sourced base calibers from top quality suppliers and elaborated as crucial.

This elaborately engraved Breguet caliber 502 DRP1 is predicated on a high-grade Frédéric Piguet P-71 computerized

And judging by the elaboration, invention was the mom of necessity. All surfaces of the bridges are freehand engraved, beveled on the edges, and, within the case of the rotor, skeletonized as effectively.

If Stefan Kudoke, Jochen Benzinger, Hannelore Lass, or the late Armin Strom had engraved this watch, we’d marvel and laud the genius of the impartial creator.

As an alternative, that is the product of a group-owned company model, so {the marketplace} and collector collective battle to course of the virtuosity at hand.

It’s Schrödinger’s cat for watch critics – each widespread and unusual within the view of uncommitted patrons.

Open minds are essential to make headway in opposition to the present of fashionable opinion. Nice issues nonetheless occur throughout the corridors of group-owned manufacturers, and watches just like the Breguet 5327 drive jaded model snobs to decide on between high quality and crowd consensus.

Make no mistake, this density of options on a Patek Philippe would supercharge a six-figure price ticket and sure entail consumer approval by a man who spells his identify with an “S.” However as a used Breguet, the 5327 is accessible for lower than the MSRP of a primary Calatrava.

Whereas this Classique isn’t billed as a “piece distinctive,” the straightforward truth of burin-cut scrolling ends in variations between examples. No two collectors can personal similar 5327s.

Intricately engraved gold rotor of the Breguet caliber 502 DRP1

The scrolling largely takes the type of floral motifs, and the final word instance is the “flower” lower across the fixing screw of the winding rotor.

Characters on the periphery of the bottom plate are engraved manually with a stunning cursive motif paying homage to the best calligraphy.

Consideration to element is excellent; be aware the roughed satin brushing of the bridges and rotor to uninteresting the flat planes and permit the engraved hollows to shine.

Escapement shock protected jewel (left) and hand engraved bridge

Marvel on the engraved escapement bridge beneath the stability; that wouldn’t look misplaced on one thing made by a one-man-brand of the Dufour selection. However loads of boutique independents would have ignored this charming element.

And beneath that bridge, there’s a mirror-polished anchor.

Excellent.

Or not.

Particles on the mainspring seen at 9-10 o’clock on the mainspring of the

There are a couple of indicators that fallible human beings have been concerned. The open barrel structure of the ultra-thin P-71 base caliber inevitably results in seen proof of particles and aged lubricants accumulating on the uncovered mainspring.

Breguet caliber 502 DRP1

Elsewhere, anglage is enticing however not as evenly utilized as on the most effective examples from Patek, Vacheron, Lange, and sure independents. A number of interior-angle bevels on the skeletonized winding rotor are much less cleanly expressed than others.

Hand engraved serial quantity and drill-cut “38 Jewels Swiss” on the baseplate

Additionally, the juxtaposition of the hand engraved serial quantity and drill-cut “38 Jewels Swiss” on the baseplate exposes the compromises inherent in an outsourced ebauche.

Talking of the ebauche, it’s an age-old design that traces its lineage to the 1970 F. Piguet P-70. Just like the JLC 920 and Patek Philippe 240 of the identical period, the motion’s quest for thinness resulted in some quirks just like the open barrel and three-quarter rotor design.

At solely 9.1 mm excessive, the Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 5327 is comparatively slim for an computerized watch with a perpetual calendar

The payoff was a 2.4mm thickness that made the P-70 and its Nineteen Eighties improve, the P-71, among the many thinnest tractor calibers out there. Breguet improves this one with a free sprung regulator, the self-evident ornament, and a perpetual calendar module with energy reserve indicator.

Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 5327BR/1E/9V6

I might be crass and daft to declare a luxurious bauble priced at $30,000+ as “low-cost.” It isn’t. Fairly, worth is the main target of this survey. Used Breguet timepieces of the fashionable period supply extraordinary worth.

A part of that’s the high quality you obtain. A part of that’s the certainty of acquiring components and repair indefinitely. As a salesman, I’ve a Roger W. Smith Collection 4 easy triple calendar and moonphase that I’d like to promote you for almost 1,000,000 {dollars}.

However writing as a collector and advocate for the watch neighborhood, I’d like to focus on an unimaginable alternative for open minded fanatics – no matter the place you purchase your {hardware}. And I believe you already know what I imply.

Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 5327

For extra data on the brand new model, the Ref. 7327, please go to www.breguet.com/en/watches/classique/classique-quantieme-perpetuel-7327/7327bb119vu

Fast Information: Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel (Perpetual Calendar)
Reference Code: 5327BR/1E/9V6
Version: Launched in 2004; discontinued 2023
Features: Hours; minutes; energy reserve indicator; moonphase; perpetual calendar with intercalary year, day, date, month
Case: Rose gold; 39mm diameter; 9.1mm thick; 47.6 lug-to-lug; 20mm lug spacing; welded lugs with screw-fixed strap bars; 30 meters of water resistance; push down crown; chilly rolled case coining alongside flanks
Strap: Brown alligator leather-based strap
Clasp: Rose gold snap-locked single-folding clasp mounted by screw and bar
Dial: 18K gold base; lathe guilloche; silvered; Breguet “secret signature” flanking numeral “XII”; blued metal arms
Motion: 502 DRP1; F. Piguet P-71 base; computerized winding; 45-hour energy reserve; 3Hz; free-sprung stability; absolutely engraved; 38 jewels; 27.4mm x 4.7mm; flat hairspring
2023 New Worth: $82,300
2024 Preowned Worth: $32,500-$35,000

* Tim Mosso is the media director and watch specialist at The 1916 Firm. You may try their very complete YouTube channel at www.youtube.com/@the1916company.

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