Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 250th Anniversary

Zach Blass

• Breguet introduces its second 250th anniversary launch, a Custom Seconde Rétrograde restricted version of 250 items.
• The watch incorporates a 38mm case within the model’s new 18k Breguet Gold alloy.
• Its blue, grand feu, flinqué enamel sub-dial is the primary to make use of the brand new Quai de l’Horloge motif.

Breguet isn’t often called a model with a excessive frequency of novelties, however 2025 is an particularly necessary yr for the model because it celebrates its 250th anniversary. On the finish of April, Breguet kicked off the anniversary celebrations with a brand new Classique Souscription impressed by a pocket watch from the late 1790s. Lower than a month later, we now know what the model’s second 250th anniversary launch is: the brand new Custom Seconde Rétrograde 7035BH/H2/9V6.

The 7035 is under no circumstances a brand new mannequin, having been first launched in 2016. Through the years, at a time earlier than it was clear the accumulating area of interest was on the lookout for extra classically sized watches, the 38mm 7035 was usually handled as a “girls’ mannequin”, and decked out within the stereotypical bling and mother-of-pearl – a gendered different to the bigger, 40mm 7097. So it’s actually cool to see this new Custom Seconde Rétrograde, which measures 38mm in diameter and 12.6mm in thickness, executed in a way that almost all wrists will be capable to take pleasure in with out feeling like they’ve to adapt to gendered norms.

It’s the primary time we’re seeing a Custom case, with its fluted caseband and welded lugs, executed within the new 18k Breguet Gold alloy. With a delicate, heat hue that has each outdated and new college appeal (as contradictory as that sounds), the colder and bolder blue grand feu enamel sub-dial actually pops towards the backdrop. The sub-dial has been hand-guillochéd as you’d anticipate, however its sample is new, bringing the Quai de l’Horloge motif first seen on the caseback of the Classique Souscription to the dial.

With a blue dial, the Breguet arms haven’t been crafted from blued metal, and are as a substitute solid in 18k Breguet Gold just like the case. The arms, emblem, and Breguet numerals look nice and legible in an identical hue, however I think some will want Breguet didn’t omit the numeral at 4 o’clock with the watch’s restricted version quantity (e.g. “No. 250”). To the left of the sub-dial, what you might be seeing isn’t an influence reserve indicator – it will be simple to mistake it as such, contemplating different Custom designs – as a substitute, it’s really a retrograde seconds hand that flips again to zero at first of every minute.

The in-house 505SR motion with a 50-hour energy reserve has additionally been given a Breguet Gold remedy, matching the surfaces of the calibre to the case. One other delicate first is the model’s resolution to brush the highest of the finger bridges to the fitting of the automated bridge, which normally stay frosted just like the surfaces round them. I actually take pleasure in this pivot, because the brushing creates new gentle dynamics, brightening up underneath direct gentle and creating higher distinction that showcases the darkening of the mirror-polished bevelled edges. It seems extra high-end and fashionable with out stripping it of its conventional appeal.

Most manufacturers don’t present weight info of their press releases until it’s a headline facet, however Breguet reveals that the gold weight of the watch is roughly 52 grams, with a further 2.2 grams of platinum from the rotor weight. This massive, formed rotor isn’t usually crafted in platinum, however is usually executed with a black polish. Right here, it has a full brushed end, which, in some respects, seems like a way to flee a laborious activity, although it does higher swimsuit the newly brushed bridges.

As a watch model, Breguet appears to be at some extent akin to a cliche film trope the place the gorgeous lady all of a sudden sheds her glasses and everybody round her all of a sudden acts like she underwent a serious makeover. For 250 years, the model has had all of the components for being essentially the most celebrated watchmaker on this planet. Nevertheless, in a largely superficial watch accumulating panorama, we’ve all been ready for the model to take off its proverbial glasses and let its hair down, whereas nonetheless remembering the place it has come from. It wanted somewhat extra hype with out shedding sight of what makes Breguet, Breguet.

The utilization of color, the delicate tweaking of finishes – all of it could seem small (as small as taking off a pair of glasses, maybe), however it’s clear that underneath new CEO Gregory Kissling, Breguet is dead-set on shifting the needle ahead and reaching new heights. The glasses are off, and contemplating the atypical, faster cadence of recent releases we’re seeing from Breguet now, it seems we’ve so much to look ahead to.

The Classique Souscription seemed all the best way again to the beginnings of Breguet, however it shed the model’s signature fluted case with welded lugs, had just one hand to inform the time, and at 40mm, was bigger than some would have appreciated. For my part, the brand new Custom Seconde Rétrograde is a really robust transfer. The 38mm diameter with a Breguet Gold makeover as a brand new choice makes it, dare I say, the very best 7035 but.

Breguet Custom Seconde Rétrograde 7035BH/H2/9V6 pricing and availability

The Breguet Custom Seconde Rétrograde 7035BH/H2/9V6 is now accessible as a restricted version of 250 items. Worth: on request