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As you would possibly know, Chopard produces watches with two distinct certifications. In its Geneva atelier, the model creates L.U.C timepieces that bear the engraved Poinçon de Genève. The Geneva Seal is primarily involved with the aesthetic high quality and craftsmanship of the motion. Whereas watches bearing it should additionally meet particular, strict chronometric necessities, the sternest standards relate to conventional ending methods and the motion’s manufacture throughout the canton of Geneva. Qualité Fleurier certification, nonetheless, evaluates the whole watch, specializing in accuracy, sturdiness, ending, and real-world efficiency by way of painstaking testing. Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier, a historic village within the district of Val-de-Travers within the canton of Neuchâtel, is the place the Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier twentieth Anniversary Version is made. This timepiece pays homage to the primary of its form, and it’s a licensed dream watch.
You would possibly suppose you’ve seen this Chopard earlier than. You’re not improper, however you’re additionally not totally proper. Final 12 months, the model with watchmaking amenities in Fleurier and Meyrin within the canton of Geneva launched the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier in Lucent Metal. Twenty years after the primary L.U.C timepiece debuted, it’s time for one thing extra outspoken and luxurious. The L.U.C Qualité Fleurier twentieth Anniversary Version (ref. 161992-0001) is offered in a restricted run of 20 watches made in lavish, luxurious, and moral 18K yellow gold.
The beautiful Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier twentieth Anniversary Version is a licensed dream watch
Undoubtedly, the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier twentieth Anniversary Version (€33,000 / US$32,300 / CHF 29,200) exemplifies Chopard’s horological mastery. One take a look at the watch tells you you’re coping with a creation ensuing from beautiful craftsmanship. The actual fact is that the watch lives as much as the best requirements of certification. The Fondation Qualité Fleurier (Fleurier High quality Basis) approves of this watch, and that’s no imply feat.
The Qualité Fleurier certification was devised within the early 2000s by three manufacturers from the identical area — Bovet, Parmigiani Fleurier, and Chopard. Since 2022, Chopard has been the one remaining initiator to make use of the extraordinarily strict standards. To be granted the Qualité Fleurier seal, the watch should move the COSC exams, the watch head must be 100% made in Switzerland, and the ending, sturdiness, and reliability should meet extremely excessive requirements. You won’t see this at a look, however you may really feel a way of utmost high quality if you choose up the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier.
A sublime two-tone, sector-style dial with presence
In 2024, I wrote that “the introverted styling of the Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier makes it a watch that’s onerous to ‘get.’” Understanding the CHF 19,300 worth of final 12 months’s monochromatic, silver-toned, soberly styled metal model takes time. The gold model, nonetheless, is simpler to get. That’s not solely because of the timeless attract of gold but in addition the gilded brass dial’s design, which is far more outspoken.
The distinction of the sector-type dial is refined but highly effective. Its vivid sector format showcases a sunburst satin-finished middle encircled by a circular-brushed chapter ring. The concentric-grained sub-seconds register at 6 o’clock provides depth and visible texture to the dial.
A component that units this L.U.C creation aside is the handset Chopard makes use of. The gilded hour and minute palms have the attribute syringe form of earlier L.U.C Qualité Fleurier fashions. Fashionable Tremendous-LumiNova on the utilized markers and palms makes it doable to learn the watch at nighttime.
Sculpted goodness
Like its metal predecessor, the yellow gold L.U.C Qualité Fleurier has a 39mm case with a mere 8.92mm thickness and a 46.5mm lug-to-lug size. Simply because the dial takes you again in time, the finely sculpted welded lugs even have a classic contact. A case like this, particularly in yellow gold, is pure watch romance. The swooping strains of the elongated welded lugs merge seamlessly with the case and have a definite classic feeling. This sort of case harks again to a time earlier than CNC machines existed. And guess what: the slender silhouette and form of the watch make it very snug to put on. After all, the shimmer of the yellow gold and the two-tone dial add lots of richness to the expertise as nicely.
The primary and the final
You get that very same sense of richness when wanting on the L.U.C 96.09-L motion by way of the case again’s sapphire show. This isn’t a brand new motion. Quite the opposite, it’s a refined evolution of Chopard Manufacture’s inaugural caliber and may be very acceptable for a watch celebrating the twentieth anniversary of the primary L.U.C Qualité Fleurier timepiece. The micro-rotor motion has a slim 3.30mm profile and options Chopard Twin expertise. In different phrases, two stacked barrels get energy from a bidirectional micro-rotor crafted in 22K gold. The motion exemplifies revolutionary Haute Horlogerie watchmaking as a result of it gives a powerful 65-hour energy reserve.
One other Haute Horlogerie facet is the motion’s ending. You could possibly spend hours wanting on the bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève and thoroughly beveled edges with out losing interest. And as you recognize by now, this caliber doesn’t simply look good. The motion additionally underwent rigorous testing by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), confirming its precision over a 15-day analysis.
It doesn’t finish there, although. The watch additionally handed the Chronofiable protocol, a three-week gauntlet simulating years of wear and tear. By the point it arrived at Fratello HQ, it had already been uncovered to temperature modifications, humidity, magnetic fields, repeated winding and crown manipulation, and shock resistance. This elegant gold watch additionally handed the Fleuritest, a 24-hour simulation of real-world wrist put on, and it maintained a mean every day charge between 0 and +5 seconds, a powerful demonstration of outstanding mechanical accuracy and reliability.
Last phrases on the Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier twentieth Anniversary Version
It’s robust to discover a flaw. The Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier twentieth Anniversary Version handed the harshest exams with flying colours in a really elegant model. Objectively talking, it is a practically good watch. However I do have one comment. The supple brown calfskin strap is comfortable and cozy; there’s little doubt about that. I additionally applaud Chopard for selecting an moral 18K yellow gold pin buckle over a folding clasp. However I don’t get the beige topstitching of the strap. The distinction stitching appears to be like too sporty and attracts an excessive amount of consideration to itself. In my view, the case and dial have to be within the highlight. They don’t want the most cost effective a part of the watch to attract consideration as nicely.
So, ultimately, I discovered a flaw in a licensed dream watch. The nice factor is, it’s a simple repair. Pair it with a strap with non-contrasting stitching, and the Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier twentieth Anniversary Version is ideal. Or did you discover one thing that makes you beg to vary? In that case, please share within the feedback.
