F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif | INTRODUCING

Russell Sheldrake

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• The brand new Chronomètre Furtif is the newest addition to F.P. Journe’s normal manufacturing catalogue.
• It contains a case and bracelet made solely from tremendous heavy tungsten carbide, with extra components in tantalum.
• The motion has been redesigned to place the seconds hand within the centre while sustaining a way of symmetry. 

There often is one watch that sticks with me yearly after Watches and Wonders. Final yr, it was the Minimize from Hermes, however this yr, it got here from exterior of the Palexpo with the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif. This monochromatic monster of a watch had me from the outset. It makes use of tungsten carbide for almost all of its case and bracelet, whereas constructing off the distinctive tantalum piece made for the Solely Watch public sale final yr, making a singular proposition that caught me off guard after I dealt with it for the primary time.

Tungsten carbide is a dense and difficult materials that’s extra at residence in industrial settings than on the workbenches of the proficient watchmakers at Journe, although it has been utilized in watches earlier than. To see it getting used right here, and with such a excessive degree of end, proves simply how rewarding it has been for Journe to have his personal casemaker, particularly as a totally built-in watchmaker from whom we anticipate such high-end ending.

The bracelet itself follows the principles set out within the LineSport assortment, with a tapering, three-link model that integrates properly into the spherical case. There are a few tantalum components within the development as properly, particularly the case aspect bumper, the clasp, the crown, and the caseback ring. Tantalum, after all, is one other materials that’s notoriously tough to work with, which right here gives a tiny little bit of shine and distinction that helps the Chronomètre Furtif stand out.

The subsequent component on this watch that requires our focus is the dial. The whole idea behind the Furtif is that studying the time is a secret that belongs solely to the wearer. This implies visibility is purposefully low, with the dial being constructed of grand feu enamel over a white gold disc that’s then mirror-polished. The numerals are laser-engraved onto this extremely reflective floor, which leaves them seen solely at sure angles and below sure mild situations. In any other case, they honestly disappear into the depths of the dial. Whereas the numerals and textual content on the dial are laborious to learn, the fingers are given a excessive white distinction and subsequently stand out as the one factor you may see with any consistency.

The motion contained in the Chronomètre Furtif has been given simply as a lot (if no more) thought than the remainder of it. One thing that may be simply missed in trendy watchmaking is simply how difficult it’s to make a motion look a sure means whereas sustaining the entire options you need. Right here, Journe knew that this watch wanted to have a central seconds hand, however he nonetheless needed to maintain the motion trying symmetrical – an actual trademark of essentially the most proficient watchmakers and motion designers.

Journe has gone to the extremes to ensure this seemingly easy motion (designated the Calibre 1522) with simply time-telling capabilities on the entrance and an influence reserve and moonphase on the again, seems as elegant because it probably can. Breaking with custom, the Chronomètre Furtif has its stability mounted on a bridge quite than a cock, which not solely affords higher symmetry, but in addition higher shock-resistance which is sensible given it is a pseudo-sports watch.

As all Journe actions have been for almost all of the corporate’s existence, the Chronomètre Furtif’s Calibre 1522 is constructed solely from rose gold. This provides the watch two extremely juxtaposed sides, with a dial that’s nearly unattainable to discern and a motion with ending that begs you to stare at it for hours on finish.

Total, the Chronomètre Furtif is stuffed with surprises and is one thing that must be held to be believed. The load and density will catch you without warning, and given the model’s ambition to make between 50 and 100 of those a yr, there’s an opportunity you might even see one… If you happen to’re fortunate.

F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif pricing and availability

The F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif is now out there from the model’s boutiques. Worth: CHF 85,000