Try our newest merchandise
Earlier than I begin this text, there’s one thing I have to confess: I don’t at the moment have a favourite Rolex Datejust. It’s not as a result of I don’t just like the watch or as a result of I’ve tried and failed to search out one — fairly the alternative. If I can’t shortly identify my favourite reference of this octogenarian Rolex mannequin, it’s just because I’ve by no means taken the time to search out out what it could be. What higher time to take action than as I write this? Procrastinatory implications apart, be a part of me as I determine what, in my (soon-to-be-established) opinion, is one of the best Rolex Datejust of all time.
Why don’t I do know already? Effectively, I’ve by no means been in a lot of a rush to search out out. The Datejust isn’t my favourite Rolex mannequin. I nonetheless respect its 80-year historical past and benefit from the idea behind the watch. I even genuinely just like the look of some configurations. That mentioned, because of the Datejust’s ubiquitous nature, I’ve by no means felt an ideal urgency to get one for myself. This isn’t helped by the truth that, to me, my 1961 Omega Seamaster ref. 14762 has served as a low-stakes stand-in with its jangly beads-of-rice bracelet, date window, and 34.5mm case. Some would possibly think about that sacrilegious, but it surely’s exhausting to really feel you want to scratch when the proverbial itch isn’t there. This has meant that I’ve by no means spent a lot time happening the Datejust rabbit gap. And let me let you know, after 80 years in existence, it’s a deep one.
My standards for the right Rolex Datejust
Now, I’ve not come completely unprepared (simply largely). There are a number of standards that I can use to considerably slender down the contenders in my seek for the right Rolex Datejust. In contrast to Mike or RJ, I don’t have any private attachment to a Datejust reference. However, as charming as it could be to have a narrative that pulls on the heartstrings and supplies a private hyperlink to the Datejust, not having one offers me the benefit of a clear slate. I can observe my nostril and convey collectively the important thing components that, to me, make an ideal Datejust. The primary one is a quick-set date. This, as I’ve realized by the use of my classic Seamaster’s lack thereof, is a strict necessity.
I’m a kind of individuals who is neurotic sufficient to desire a watch’s time and date set precisely earlier than carrying it. Having to set the date to the twenty ninth when it stopped on the third is sufficient to both damage my day or make me attain for one more watch, so quick-set is non-negotiable. The opposite standards are extra pliable however no much less necessary. First, I need my Datejust to really feel classic. This implies a 36mm case with a plexiglass crystal on a Jubilee bracelet. I like the Jubilee and plexi mixture’s heat, jangly classic really feel. Materials-wise, it’s metal for me: not gold, not two-tone, simply metal (effectively, and perhaps some steel-looking white gold on the bezel).
Ref. 1603 “Huge Boy”
On the subject of dials, much less is extra. “Huge Boy” or linen dials are about as loopy as I’d be prepared to go. You possibly can preserve your stone, wooden, tapestry, and Buckley dials. The ultimate be aware is that I’m not a fan of engine-turned bezels. A fluted bezel works, however I’m additionally a giant fan of a {smooth} bezel. At this level, these retaining rating may have discovered I’ll possible be touchdown on both a Datejust ref. 16014 or 16000.
The runner-up: Rolex Datejust ref. 16000
Let me let you know why the Rolex Datejust 16000 was nearly the winner right here. Till simply a few weeks in the past, the smooth-bezel 16000 would have taken the highest spot for me. At one level, I used to be contemplating a 16000 on an Oyster bracelet as my decide. Shortly after, I spotted that as interesting because the combo of a {smooth} bezel and Oyster bracelet could be, it wouldn’t really feel like a “correct” Datejust. At that time, I used to be making a pseudo-Oyster Perpetual and even being led astray by my desire for the 36mm Explorer. So the Jubilee needed to keep, and I made a decision additionally to maintain my distance from darker, Explorer-like dials.
Picture: Bulang & Sons
Since offered by Bulang & Sons, the one you see pictured here’s a prime instance of what I’d be after. The grey dial is sweet and refined, including a little bit of mysterious character to the watch. The silver print can also be much less harsh, and paired with the graceful bezel, it strikes a stability that leans ever so barely in a sportier path. So, why was this not the one? All of it goes again to what I already talked about. This 16000 is an unquestionably good-looking watch, but it surely simply wasn’t Datejust sufficient. And as a lot as I benefit from the contrarian enchantment of going with this as my best of all time, it simply didn’t sit proper in my thoughts. I used to be misplaced and out of solutions.
Picture: Bulang & Sons
Picture: Bulang & Sons
Picture: Bulang & Sons
That was till I visited a pal’s security deposit field, the place he picked up a few Datejusts. He was buying and selling as much as one thing particular and was confronted with a tricky name: solely one of many two may keep. One of many Datejusts had a {smooth} bezel and silver dial, and the opposite — the one he in the end stored — has continued to quietly hang-out me since I noticed it, and finally knowledgeable my resolution to go along with the 16014 you see beneath as my winner.
My favourite Rolex Datejust of all time: ref. 16014
Now that I’ve discovered the one, let’s shortly run by way of my guidelines as soon as once more. Fast-set date, plexiglass, Jubilee bracelet, 36mm case, white gold fluted bezel, and chrome steel case and bracelet. Yep, this one ticks all of the bins. The ultimate factor left to choose was the best dial. And that’s the place my pal’s Datejust comes into play. It launched me to this irresistible mixture of a golden “champagne” dial with a chrome steel and white gold watch. It’s one which I already knew from the patina on my classic Seamaster, however I didn’t understand it existed in a Datejust. As soon as once more, I headed to our associates at Bulang & Sons to discover a excellent (however sadly already offered) instance.
Picture: Bulang & Sons
The one factor I discussed that requires clarification is my refusal of two-tone. This was referencing the case and bracelet supplies. Now, fluted bezels are nearly all the time solely product of gold, however the white gold one right here maintains the white-metal look. The place it will get difficult is when you think about the dial and palms. These have a yellow-gold look that, mixed with the metal case and bracelet, could possibly be considered two-tone. Nevertheless, that is nonetheless a metal Datejust — maybe two-tone-ish at finest.
Nonetheless, I discover this oddball and probably doubtful mixture (the jury remains to be out as as to if these Datejusts left the manufacturing unit wanting this manner) to be as understatedly charming as they arrive. There’s a sure easy-wearing nonchalance with simply the correct quantity of grandeur that does this Datejust justice.
Simply taking a look at it, I shortly fade right into a daydream of a late-afternoon drive on a sweltering day someplace by the Mediterranean coast, in a boxy, convertible technique of transport (Defender, Mehari, you identify it — simply take the roof off), sun shades on, on the best way to spend the night at a shady native seaside bar with associates, good meals, chilly drinks, and nice music. I look down at my wrist, and telling me the time (not that it issues) is that this golden-faced Datejust. A man can dream!
Closing ideas
That wishful imaginative and prescient of my excellent Datejust looks like a superb place to depart issues. And look how far we’ve come since we began simply over a thousand phrases in the past! I now have a favourite Rolex Datejust. Within the analysis I’ve accomplished since choosing my contender, I’ve discovered that ref. 16014 Datejusts will run you about €4k–6k relying on situation and rarity (with some outliers that fetch slightly extra). The golden-dial apple of my eye sits on the increased finish of that vary and will be had for about €5,500.
What do you consider my standards for an ideal Datejust? And do you additionally like my ultimate decide? Let me know within the feedback beneath, and be a part of us once more on Saturday, once you’ll be capable to vote between everybody’s favourite Datejusts and crown one of the best of one of the best.
