Girard-Perregaux x Bamford Deep Diver

Tom Austin

• Girard-Perregaux reimagines its 70s-era Deep Diver for 2025, with the assistance of British bespoke atelier Bamford Watch Division.
• This new launch types a part of Girard-Perregaux’s limited-edition sequence, the Legacy Editions, with solely 350 items obtainable for a set interval.
• Returning with a dial that’s bolder than ever, the Deep Diver has been handled with the joyful eccentricity that’s Bamford.

There’s a great likelihood that the Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver is a watch you by no means knew existed, and that’s no shock: it’s an more and more uncommon watch that has gone on to achieve cult standing in classic circles. The Deep Diver was Girard-Perregaux’s reply to the rising reputation {of professional} dive watches within the mid-Twentieth century, however got here with a extra distinct cushion-shaped 70s look, with a futuristic dial that regarded like one thing from Kubrick’s 2001: A Area Odyssey. 

Quick-forward to 2025, and the Deep Diver is making a return to the Girard-Perregaux lineup as a part of its restricted Legacy Editions sequence. What’s much more stunning is that it’s in partnership with British bespoke watch atelier/customiser Bamford Watch Division. BWD is liable for taking the idea of stuffy Swiss luxurious watches and turning it on its head, creating bespoke, vibrant reimaginings of iconic wristwatches.

We’re at all times cautiously optimistic when a model reintroduces a mannequin from over half a century in the past. It’s because manufacturers typically fail to stay true to the mannequin’s previous, and go overboard with modern options, fully shedding the very spark it’s attempting to re-ignite. I believe that BWD’s founder George Bamford had important enter on this, as a result of the identical can certainly not be mentioned for the brand new Deep Diver. George’s tenacity is fierce on the subject of manufacturers doing issues correctly, so it’s no surprise that the Deep Diver is true to its authentic type.

The cushion-shaped case, which is made from light-weight grade 5 titanium, measures 40.3mm by 38mm. It’s a good dimension, however it’s basically a diver’s instrument; it must be. Visually, it seems to be just about an identical to the unique mannequin, albeit barely bigger, with radial brushing on the entrance face and polished chamfers on the thick-set lugs. (The unique was cased in metal, making titanium a pleasant fashionable improve.) Framing the dial is a skinny, 14-faceted bezel, once more, like the unique, and a delicate nod to a different iconic 70s Girard-Perregaux mannequin, the Laureato. The general type oozes 70s coolness, and is purposeful in addition, providing a 200-meter water resistance.

The performance doesn’t cease there with the Deep Diver. You’ll discover there should not one, however two crowns protruding from the case, one at 4 o’clock, which is signed with the GP emblem and is used for setting the watch, and one other at 2 o’clock, which operates the internal ‘compressor’ bezel that rotates across the dial. The typography of the numerals on the bezel is impressed by the retro-futuristic model seen on the unique watch. By no means one to be delicate, BWD have gone to city on the dial, utilising the blocky aesthetic from the unique, and reimagining it with daring blue and neon orange particulars. It’s a courageous look, however it fits the watch and its 70s attraction.

Fortunately, the dial has minimal textual content, with only a easy Bamford signature and a retro Girard-Perregaux emblem, together with a well-integrated date window at 3 o’clock, once more, in step with its predecessor. It’s a transparent and purposeful dial which, at a look, you might say is busy, however when you think about its use case, it could really act as a really purposeful dive dial, as a result of distinction is so necessary when underwater, particularly at depth.

Initially, the 70s Deep Diver was powered by the Girard-Perregaux calibre 461, an in-house computerized motion, and fortunately, GP have caught with the acquainted recipe. The most recent mannequin options the GP03300 calibre, a extra fashionable in-house motion crafted solely on the model’s services in La Chaux-de-Fonds. It’s a trusted computerized motion utilized in round 36 different GP fashions, and as is typical for GP, fantastically adorned with linear and round Côtes de Genève, polished bevels, mirror-polished screws, and round graining.

Energy reserve is modest at 46 hours, which, towards many different luxurious diver watches it competes with, is considerably missing. Nonetheless, this motion is normally reserved for watches with maybe much less tool-like presence, and it’s meticulously completed, which is greater than could be mentioned for many dive watches, at the least (though you may solely barely admire this ending by a small, blue-tinted exhibition window).

One characteristic that didn’t make it over from the unique watch is the metal bracelet, as the newest model arrives on a rubber strap. Nonetheless, Girard-Perregaux have taken the time to reflect the slatted silhouette of its predecessor within the profile of the strap. Every mannequin comes with a pair of quick-release darkish blue and orange straps to select from. They match the dial options completely and are completed off with a titanium pin buckle, which is brushed to match the case.

Closing ideas

The Girard-Perregaux x Bamford Deep Diver is an thrilling addition to the normally fairly reserved GP lineup, and you may actually inform the place Bamford’s influences got here in. The wild colors are an ideal alternative: not solely do they swimsuit the 70s aesthetic and respect the mannequin’s heritage, however they’ve constructed on the performance of the unique by being so contrasting. Dial colors and case materials apart, your complete watch has been tastefully reproduced to honour the mannequin’s legacy, and as such, it’s a particularly becoming addition to the Legacy Editions sequence. It’s additionally only a bit wild, and hats off to Bamford – they’ve helped present how retro watches don’t must be boring.

Girard-Perregaux x Bamford Deep Diver pricing and availability

The Girard-Perregaux x Bamford Deep Diver is restricted to 350 items and is on the market by all Girard-Perregaux retailers worldwide and on-line at bamfordwatchdepartment.com. Value: US$15,100