Grand Seiko: Looking at What Makes the Brand so Special – And Grand Seiko is Definitely Special!

The primary affiliation for a lot of on listening to the phrase “Seiko” is prone to be reasonably priced quartz watches or computerized divers. Nonetheless, Seiko presents far more, notably by way of luxurious timepieces.

Grand Seiko, which grew to become its personal model underneath the Seiko Group in 2017, produces a number of the best luxurious watches in the marketplace, rivaling one of the best Swiss manufacturers at costs which can be nonetheless (considerably) attainable.

It took me a while to completely admire this. At first, I noticed “Seiko” and puzzled why anybody would spend hundreds on one after they might purchase a Rolex, for instance. What helped me most was seeing the watches in individual and understanding the hype for myself. Now, my subsequent watch want is a Grand Seiko. I’m an enormous fan and even satisfied a buddy to buy one earlier this 12 months. I’m not alone in having a change of coronary heart.

Google search developments present simply how a lot curiosity in Grand Seiko has elevated since 2017. It has grown sooner than Rolex and is in step with Patek Philippe.

Grand Seiko Google month-to-month search knowledge versus Rolex, Panerai, and Patek Philippe (graph to not scale, simply to indicate developments not relative quantity of searches – Rolex is far larger)

When in comparison with Panerai, it turns into clear that not all manufacturers have seen this degree of progress, regardless of the final enhance within the reputation of mechanical watches.

Grand Seiko Google month-to-month search knowledge versus Rolex, Panerai, and Patek Philippe (graph to not scale, simply to indicate developments not relative quantity of searches – Rolex is far larger)

I need to contact on what modified for me and why you need to begin taking Grand Seiko severely – when you haven’t already.

Why are Grand Seikos so good?

Ending

Swiss watches are synonymous with high quality. There are particular phrase associations which can be a given; for instance, German automobiles and very good engineering. Nonetheless, Grand Seiko is breaking this mildew. Shopping for a watch is a luxurious, and irrespective of who you might be, you need to count on to get an merchandise of high quality.

Dial of the Grand Seiko-Snowflake SBGA211

Sadly, this isn’t all the time the case. You may find yourself paying a premium for a model title or a model affiliation with a sport, which may be costly. With Grand Seiko, nonetheless, you get a watch price each greenback, pound, or euro, even with current value will increase.

It’s laborious to convey the standard in photos, which is why I used to be not satisfied till I noticed a Grand Seiko in individual. Holding and experiencing the watch permits you to absolutely notice the extent of the ending put into every one.

Grand Seiko Zaratsu polished case

One of many standout causes for that is Zaratsu sharpening. This technique of sharpening was first seen on the 1964 Self-Dater watch and is known as after the unique machines used on that mannequin. It’s a method the place the metallic is pressed towards emery fabric or paper abrasive on a rotating disk. This requires ability, and Grand Seiko takes delight within the outcomes of this meticulous process.

The outcomes are flat surfaces which can be distortion-free and have an ideal reflection, in addition to sharp edges. That is one massive facet of what makes a Grand Seiko a Grand Seiko, however it’s also the toughest to understand in photos. Seeing this for the primary time is mesmerizing. The indices and polished areas on the case completely mirror gentle, altering depth relying in your environment.

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Skyflake

The excessive degree of ending continues with different elements just like the dial, motion accuracy, and ending. That is actually a product that feels deeply thought of and regarded, as if plenty of consideration and vitality has been put into each watch. What this boils all the way down to is the impression that Grand Seiko desires to earn your cash.

Grand Seiko takes delight in what they promote, which supplies you, as the patron, the sensation that they respect the worth you’ll pay to personal one. In a world the place cash alone is not adequate to buy some watches on provide with different manufacturers – not naming names – it’s good to really feel as if your customized is appreciated. No less than to me.

They’ve delight in what they promote, and that provides the patron the sensation that the model appreciates the worth you may be paying to personal one. In a world now the place your cash alone is not adequate to buy some merchandise on provide with different manufacturers – not naming names – it’s good to really feel as if your customized is revered. No less than to me.

Dials

The dials of Grand Seiko are what units them aside – much more so than the general ending.

Grand Seiko Taisetsu Particular Version Reference SBGA415

You don’t see many manufacturers (dare I say any?) taking the extent of time and care into their watch dials like Grand Seiko. Every Grand Seiko dial displays a special facet of Japanese nature, becoming with their inspiration – the character of time.

Their dials take a canvas strategy permitting them to create an summary, inventive impression of what the particular mannequin is representing.

Grand Seiko White Birch

For instance, for inspiration the ‘White Birch’ makes use of the Shirakaba white birch forests within the areas of northern Japan close to the Shizukuishi and Shinshu studios of Grand Seiko.

Grand Seiko Nature of Time assortment

One other instance is the Nature of Time Japan Seasons particular version assortment, that includes 4 references with every trying to seize the essence of Japan in these moments – the Spring mannequin is a light-weight pink reflecting the cherry blossom, the Summer time a deep inexperienced imitating the inexperienced of fields and grass, the Autumn a darkish blue celebrating the moonlight across the autumnal equinox and eventually, Winter in an off-white for the deep snow.

Okay, this may all sound long-winded, however ignoring the associations you might be nonetheless left with a stupendous, textured dial with colours which can be apparently completely different. This creates one thing visually pleasing with depth, permitting the watch to vary in several gentle circumstances, particularly as the feel provides an additional dynamic – and don’t neglect the Zaratsu polished indices on high of this!

You aren’t selecting only a dial colour whenever you buy a Grand Seiko. You might be deciding on texture, a timestamp in Japanese nature and genuinely one thing near artwork. Sure, there are various levels to this throughout their lineup – you will notice some fashions with out texture in case that’s not what you might be after or simply basic black and white fashions.

However, this all simply provides us much more to select from and plenty of alternatives to search out the mannequin that speaks to you.

Innovation

Grand Seiko doesn’t simply make beautiful-looking watches; there may be additionally quite a bit to say concerning the actions driving them. They’re all in-house and vary from their 9F quartz, 9R Spring Drive to the 9S mechanical. Given the quantity of engineering that goes into every motion there’s a lot to unpack right here, however basically there’s something for everybody and it permits for broad pricing permitting as many individuals purchase into the model as doable.

Grand Seiko actions (L-R): 9f Quartz, 9R Spring Drive, and 9S Mechanical

Every considered one of these actions has one thing particular about them. The 9F quartz is extra than simply common quartz. To begin, Grand Seiko grows and ages its personal quartz, deciding on solely one of the best for the ultimate product. The motion encompasses a “Backlash Auto-Regulate Mechanism” (their very own phrases) which means the seconds hand lands completely on the indices, including to the precision, in addition to an on the spot date change mechanism.

One other underappreciated facet is that it generates sufficient torque in order that Grand Seiko can use the identical arms as their mechanical fashions, versus thinner, lighter arms discovered on different quartz watches. It’s an especially over-engineered quartz motion – once more Grand Seiko trying to earn what you are promoting.

The 9R Spring Drive has sufficient to speak about for a complete publish in itself. The idea and engineering that went into designing this motion are nothing in need of extraordinary. It’s distinctive to Grand Seiko, partly as a result of no different model has managed to attain what they’ve achieved. The Spring Drive combines one of the best of quartz and mechanical into one. It generates vitality like each different mechanical watch, however makes use of a quartz crystal to control the timing, making a excessive degree of precision.

What it additionally does is give the seconds hand a steady sweep. No, not like different computerized watches, however a real steady motion. It’s fairly one thing to see, and even when you don’t like the way in which the watches look, I might extremely advocate going to see one simply to see the Spring Drive in motion. If you wish to purchase into their nature advertising, then the Spring Drive permits you to see the fixed circulate of time.

Computerized Spring Drive Caliber 9R86 powering the Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT

You possibly can view the 9R in two methods. Both, it has quartz and due to this fact, just isn’t a real mechanical motion, or, it’s an engineering achievement and my watch is extra correct and distinctive for it. I’m within the latter camp, and if I’m ever ready to buy a Grand Seiko, it could be a Spring Drive because of this.

With how a lot effort is put into their 9F and 9R actions, it ought to be no shock that their mechanical 9S motion has acquired the identical consideration. As with the opposite two, there may be an excessive amount of depth to enter for this publish, however the 9S can obtain 36,000 vibrations per hour (the Omega Co-Axial 8900 is 25,200 vibrations per hour for reference) and has as much as 80 hours of energy reserve relying on the precise mannequin. Additional, that is achieved with an accuracy of +4/-2 seconds per day.

That’s unbelievable. To have a watch that makes use of extra vitality to energy this excessive beat charge, however final as lengthy, if not longer, then the competitors ought to clarify all of it.

One massive issue as to why they’ll obtain that is using MEMS know-how (Micro Electro Mechanical Techniques). This technique makes use of know-how initially developed for semiconductor manufacturing, and it essentially permits Grand Seiko to create some elements completely and at a decreased weight. The escape wheel is 5% lighter, for instance, decreasing the vitality required in driving it.

With a short contact on every motion, you’ll be able to see that the care that goes into every watch is superb. You realize that in shopping for one, from what you see to what you don’t, you’ve got purchased one thing of remarkable high quality.

Availability

The ultimate level is availability. Lots of watches are in a lot demand, that getting one at RRP is a problem, to say the least. This may change sooner or later, however as of now, it’s an unlucky actuality. Regardless of having some in style fashions such because the Snowflake or White Birch, Grand Seiko’s are typically accessible.

There may be a restricted version that may be more durable to get, or possibly a hyped model that upon launch is briefly provide, however I’ve by no means had a difficulty strolling into an AD and making an attempt on a number of fashions. I’m coming to understand this issue much more lately.

Then, whenever you do determine to enter a boutique, the workers have all the time been extraordinarily useful and passionate concerning the watches. The earlier time I went in, I brazenly talked about I used to be not buying however the gross sales individual serving to me introduced out each mannequin I used to be fascinated with and extra. They had been extraordinarily educated concerning the completely different variations, and if something their ardour matched mine and it left me with an especially constructive impression.

The place Grand Seiko must do extra

Regardless of my love for his or her watches, there may be nonetheless extra that Grand Seiko must concentrate on to proceed on its upward development. As all the time, these are all simply my impressions. Firstly, they launch many new watches per 12 months, with many editions restricted to sure numbers and areas. All of it will get complicated.

The Snowflake and White Birch are the preferred and well-known as a result of they’re the manufacturers’ id merchandise. They’re the staples that stay fixed, and to some extent, they might slim down their wider providing to assist focus and construct a stronger model picture.

Secondly, the bracelet wants some work. It’s quite chunky, there isn’t a taper to it which makes it really feel much less refined, and there’s no micro-adjustment that you’re seeing on competitor watches (even the brand new Tudor Ranger now has this). Grand Seiko has nailed all the things else, so now it’s time for them to enhance their bracelets.

Grand Seiko SBGW285

Lastly, for me, it’s Grand Seiko’s advertising. I really like the thought of nature inspiring what they do, however a number of the inspirations really feel somewhat too farfetched. Additional to this, they then produce imagery in entrance of their inspiration and a few studio photographs of the watch. It could be good to see some extra ‘within the wild’ photographs and movies to only carry the story alive.

Conclusion

I really like Grand Seiko. I’m so completely happy that I’ve had the prospect to see them in individual as this opened my eyes. From their motion innovation to the Zaratsu sharpening and dial element, all the things feels extraordinarily effectively made. Grand Seiko goes to excessive lengths to earn your cash and give you a product of remarkable high quality.

Grand Seiko Seasons Winter Taisetsu

There’s a sense of event with every watch – it feels particular. Perhaps that is helped by the actual fact you don’t see too many in public, or possibly it’s as a result of to understand what you’re looking at, it’s worthwhile to perceive the watch past simply the model title on the entrance. There’s a saying – you purchase a Rolex to impress others and a Grand Seiko to impress your self.

Perhaps shopping for a Rolex to impress others I can disagree with, however I couldn’t agree extra about shopping for a Grand Seiko for your self.

Now I simply must determine which I need to purpose for, and begin saving!

For extra info, please go to www.grand-seiko.com/

* This text was first printed 23 April 2023.

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