Grand Seiko SLGC009 Tokyo Lion Tentagraph

Zach Blass

I do know I’m billed as Mr. Grand Seiko, however I’m not going to lie… I’ve blended emotions about this one. However it’s exactly its polarising nature that made the brand new Grand Seiko SLGC009 Tokyo Lion Tentagraph one of the crucial fascinating Grand Seiko launches at Watches and Wonders this yr.

My blended emotions largely encompass one ingredient of the design, and it is rather subjective. However as we dig into this SLGC009, I believe you would possibly discover there are much more fascinating and promising components of this watch that would make it a sexy proposition than subjective negatives, all of this relying in your parameters for watch sizing, style in aesthetics, and, in fact, your price range.

The case

Possible, the primary attainable criticism could be that the case is simply too large. This can be a level of suggestions I’d usually entertain, however this watch design is supposed to be large and works large. There may be nothing dainty a few lion, and let’s make clear what is definitely large right here. It’s a 43mm case, which is .2mm lower than the extra normal Tentagraph. It’s 15.6mm thick, which is .3mm thicker than the usual Tentagraph, however it’s 50mm lug-to-lug, which is definitely 1.5mm shorter than the usual Tentagraph. Now, a 43mm diameter with a 50mm lug-to-lug is definitely fairly wearable for many wrists. It’s actually the thickness, which is once more solely.3mm greater, which doubtlessly poses some extent of hesitation in my eyes.

The Tentagraph case, although complicated in its personal method, can understandably be perceived as a extra typical form. Grand Seiko’s ‘lion case’, nevertheless, is something however typical: a extremely faceted case type that’s virtually like an octagon set inside a diamond. There are such a lot of aspects that should be completely Zaratsu completed to the Grand Seiko normal, and I believe that Grand Seiko’s case finishers, regardless of being as much as the duty, broke out in a chilly sweat once they first discovered this case design was coming into manufacturing.

This Tokyo Lion Tentagraph case is in Grand Seiko’s newer Sensible Arduous Titanium alloy, which is a brighter, extra radiant titanium in hue than the model’s Excessive-Depth Titanium. Moreover, it’s 200 metres water resistant, which is twice the depth ranking of the usual Tentagraph. Take a look at the detailing on the pushers flanking the screw-down crown, too – these deep serrations make it look very purposeful.

A major design characteristic the Tokyo Lion brings to the desk is that its caseback is curved and cambered – a primary for Grand Seiko – and subsequently its case will hug and situate itself on the wrist very properly, creating the phantasm that the watch sits thinner than it truly does… Although I’m below no illusions that it’s going to look slender both.

So, with its extra structural type, twice the water-resistance, and its unconventional sporty design, I believe the scale, for the haters at the least, are extra forgiving on this context. I get that the Tentagraph, as a result of its look, will get stacked up in opposition to a aggressive set that may have tamer dimensions. However this Tokyo Lion Tentagraph has far fewer parallels to be drawn. It’s a really distinct type that possibly might drum up Offshore comparisons, however with such a comparability drawn, it solely additional justifies that that is merely a design meant to have an even bigger presence.

The dial

Turning to the dial, right here is the place I’ve a really private, subjective criticism. I do just like the lion’s mane throughline discovered within the color and texture of the dial. Nonetheless, I’m not the most important fan of getting two colour-contrasting chronograph counters and a 3rd small seconds counter that blends into the dial. However there’s an comprehensible purpose for this. The argument for such a structure is that, from a legibility perspective, it delineates which two counters are tied to the chronograph performance of the watch and the one which isn’t. However for some, like me, it’s a little off-putting. I recognise, although, that for a lot of, this lack of uniformity causes little problem.

As a Grand Seiko sports activities watch, the broad and well-finished Evolution 9 hours, minutes, and small seconds handset, together with the faceted utilized indices, are all crammed with LumiBrite for visibility in darkness. At 4:30, you might have a non-dial-blending date complication nestled between the two-hour indexes.

The strap

Maybe probably the most refined but in addition most important improvement launched with the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is its strap: the first-ever, arguably built-in however positively fitted, rubber strap from Grand Seiko.  Hopefully, that is an space Grand Seiko will discover extra, as I believe all Evolution 9 designs – whether or not staples just like the White Birch, the usual Tentagraph, or the dive watches – might actually stand to learn from their very own rubber straps.

For these important of Grand Seiko bracelets, such rubber-strapped choices would satiate these in that camp whereas additionally delivering configurations that may naturally be a bit decrease in worth, as bracelets usually increase the value of a watch. The strap is executed in a dial matching brown, and has a lion’s paw-inspired texture on the underside to not solely function a thematic tie-in but in addition enhance consolation.

The motion

As it’s the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph, it, in fact, makes use of the identical 9SC5 motion discovered within the unique SLGC001 Tentagraph and the newer SLGC007, which launched alongside this SLGC009 earlier this yr. It’s a high-beat automated chronograph motion constructed upon the pioneering Grand Seiko 9SA5, which notably launched a brand new dual-impulse escapement and the model’s first-ever overcoil hairspring. The spectacular motion, regardless of being a high-beat chronograph calibre, is billed with 72 hours of energy reserve. Nonetheless, that 72-hour quote contains the chronograph being run repeatedly. If the chronograph is just not working, then it can final 80 hours, similar to the 9SA5.

As a modular motion, the view from the exhibition caseback will look acquainted when you’ve got ever had a take a look at Grand Seiko’s 9SA5-driven watches, and you will notice its very good-looking ornament and structure impressed by the Shizukuishi river close to the place the watches are made.

The decision

I believe it’s truthful to say Grand Seiko has no illusions that the SLGC009 will topple the Snowflake or White Birch as its finest vendor. That is an train in making a daring, distinct sports activities watch design that’s unapologetic, artistic, and extremely creative. That being mentioned, these lion circumstances are likely to garner a cult-following, with the lengthy sold-out Grand Seiko SBGA405 Godzilla sixty fifth Anniversary Restricted Version and the SBGC275 Shinshu Dawn Restricted Version nonetheless extremely wanted by all those that missed out.

Grand Seiko not at all is wanting references in its catalogue. If you’d like one thing smaller and slimmer, I’d extremely advocate you try our assessment of the SLGB003 ‘Ice Forest’ – a slender 37mm watch that debuted Grand Seiko’s first-ever micro-adjust bracelet and the primary UFA Spring Drive motion correct inside 20 seconds per yr.

A remaining word: with its utilization of Sensible Arduous Titanium for its complicated case form, and being pushed by considered one of Grand Seiko’s most premium actions, the SLGC009 does are available in at US$16,900, or A$24,500, inserting it on the greater finish of Grand Seiko’s catalogue earlier than hitting the Masterpiece tier.

Grand Seiko SLGC009 Tokyo Lion Tentagraph pricing and availability

The Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009 is accessible now for buy. Worth: US$16,900, A$24,500