Grand Seiko Snowflake | IN DEPTH

Zach Blass

Few watch manufacturers have such a loyal tribe of cult followers and patrons as Grand Seiko. Certain, many individuals journey the hype trains of assorted different manufacturers, however my favorite factor about sporting my Grand Seiko hat strolling down the streets of New York Metropolis are the numerous glances and nods of approval I get by these passing by. By way of that look of recognition alone, I do know I might be quick buddies with these individuals, share a pint, and discuss Grand Seiko for hours.

As soon as a distinct segment Japanese home model, now a worldwide horological phenomenon, as of late increasingly more individuals can rapidly spout reference numbers; know that Zaratsu shouldn’t be a katana design method and that Spring Drive isn’t a joyride in a convertible in sweater climate; and are conversant in all the assorted dials the model has develop into celebrated for. And there’s one particular watch mannequin that’s the clear turning level for the model gaining worldwide recognition: the Grand Seiko Snowflake.

Now there are two of them!

Whereas most individuals are conversant in the SBGA211, it’s actually the SBGA011 that kicked off the entire Grand Seiko insanity. The 2 watches are equivalent in design, with the very notable exception being how the watches are branded. The SBGA011 is the OG Snowflake, first launched in 2005, with the dial branded Seiko at 12, and Grand Seiko on the 6 o’clock. At the moment, Grand Seiko had not established itself internationally, however as phrase quietly unfold concerning the unimaginable Spring Drive expertise and a good-looking white dial that mimicked the feel of fallen snow, an issue started to come up: what’s the distinction between Seiko versus Grand Seiko?

In 2010, 5 years after the SBGA011 Snowflake was launched, Grand Seiko lastly started distributing internationally. Nonetheless, for a watch that performed at a value level that was a lot increased than most had been used to for a “Seiko”, its branding threw individuals off, at the very least these past the borders of Japan. Regardless of this confusion, the model was beginning to acquire traction, and after that grew to become clear, Grand Seiko would set up itself as an independently working model. That very same yr, in 2017, the SBGA211 would make its debut, starting the period of Grand Seiko watches being strictly branded as such, as a substitute of “Seiko Grand Seiko”. In October 2018, Grand Seiko Company of America was established, and the flag firmly planted overseas for Grand Seiko’s pursuit to develop into a worldwide pressure of precision.

Although the SBGA211 Snowflake has an impeccably hand-finished case courtesy of the Zaratsu method, and a motion correct inside 15 seconds monthly, what undoubtedly attracts individuals in first is its crisp, white dial. The feel is the results of a meticulous, multi-step technique of silver-plating and coating. Upon nearer inspection, you’ll discover the intricacy of the stamped sample, although one which’s born from a handmade mould.

On Spring Drive

This turns into the segue for studying about Grand Seiko’s heavy affect from nature, and its motto “The Nature of Time”. The following step, maybe, is the place Spring Drive enters the dialog. As soon as individuals began to note the superbly heat-blued seconds serenely gliding throughout the dial, intrigue rose for this new motion expertise. Is it mechanical? Is it quartz? What’s it?

Grand Seiko’s 9R collection Spring Drive was first, debuting in 2004, only a yr previous to the SBGA011. The 9R65 sports activities a formidable three-day energy reserve, and unparalleled accuracy for a mechanically powered watch motion, finishing the artistry of the Snowflake design. The character-inspired particulars inform the calibre design, too. It’s no coincidence that the automated bridge is formed like a mountain: the very one which conjures up the dial.

Nonetheless, Spring Drive made its business debut in Seiko and Credor-branded timepieces in 1999. It was solely when the ability reserve might be prolonged from two days to a few that it entered the world of Grand Seiko, and on this newly redesigned calibre, the structure additionally modified. So, its incorporation of a mountainous form for the bridge was very a lot intentional and a merging of the Seiko philosophy of precision with the Grand Seiko artistry of seeking to nature as its muse.

Precision Zaratsu sharpening

With those that ventured down the rabbit gap having their piqued with the invention of the Snowflake’s nature-inspired dial and extremely correct proprietary motion, the subsequent step, after all, was to strive the watch on. Like all watch, you may actually solely totally recognize all of its nuances within the metallic. The millennium-style case, as it’s recognized, is a good ambassador for the Zaratsu dialog to start, because it isn’t as wild as what you may discover within the 44GS case, as its flat planes totally respect Grand Seiko’s Grammar of Design.

The Snowflake is a little more typical in form, and something however in its price-to-finish ratio. The Grand Seiko precept of sunshine and shadow is clearly conveyed; with the bezel, case flanks, and bezel mirror-polished, creating accented surfaces that go black beneath direct gentle.

Such surfaces stand out towards the predominantly hairline-brushed end that the case and bracelet obtain, retaining a shiny distinction. It’s necessary to recognise as nicely that in 2005, titanium wristwatches had been nowhere close to as widespread in luxurious watchmaking, and experiencing one thing so light-weight on the wrist was a novelty in itself. To see such well-finished surfaces solely additional showcased Grand Seiko’s mastery. They had been polished in a fashion that essentially the most prestigious manufacturers on this planet would solely apply to small motion parts in far costlier watches. The titanium canvas added yet one more problem, because the light-weight materials is way harder to machine and end than commonplace stainless-steel.

Regardless of the model’s large development over the a long time for the reason that SBGA011 first launched, any measured Grand Seiko fan will inform you that its most iconic watch has been and can doubtless proceed to be the Grand Seiko Snowflake. Regardless of new collections ushering in case shapes just like the Evolution 9, flagship fashions just like the White Birch, and next-gen actions just like the 9RB2 and 9SA4, the Snowflake is the gateway mannequin, and the simplest to grasp when it comes to creative imaginative and prescient and technological distinction.

Sure, Grand Seiko is well-known for its wide selection of colors and textures. However for newcomers to the model, and even the world of watches as a complete, its crisp white dial provides a superb place to begin in versatility. It was the mannequin that gave GS the arrogance to enter the worldwide market, set up its independence, and develop to be the model it’s right this moment. It additionally stays one of the vital stable picks for an elevated day by day wearer, and a rightful fashionable icon.

Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake pricing and availability

The Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake is now obtainable for buy from all Grand Seiko retailers. Worth: US$6,600