Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGZ003 Reviewed by Tim Mosso: High-Tech Mechanical Masterpieces offering Sensational Hand Finishing and Excellent Value
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Grand Seiko usually is mentioned as a worth advantaged Japanese rival to stalwart Swiss luxurious mainstays comparable to Rolex, Omega, and Breitling. However the gorgeous scale of Seiko Group Company interprets to an unlimited scope of watchmaking each beneath and above the Swiss mainstream.
Whereas there’s all the time room on the earth for the standard Seiko 5, it’s the alternative finish of Seiko’s worth spectrum the place probably the most intriguing choices emerge. The Spring Drive SBGZ003 sits in Grand Seiko’s “Masterpiece” assortment – and for good purpose.
Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGZ003 on the wrist
The roots of the SBGZ003 lie someplace between Philippe Dufour’s Vallée de Joux and Seiko-Epson’s Nagano Prefecture-based Shinshu Watch manufacturing facility. Previous to establishing the “Micro Artist Studio” in 2000, Japanese watchmakers performed a grand tour of the world’s premier watchmaking operations.
Whereas few strategies or types have been borrowed straight – Micro Artist is a Japanese authentic – the requirements of high quality witnessed within the Vallée made a strong impression. Greater than something practiced by the Swiss “holy trinity,” Dufour’s method influenced the course of Micro Artist.
Right this moment, the Micro Artist Studio focuses on constructing a handful of watches per 12 months. Complete manufacturing doubtless quantities to not more than 40-50 whole timepieces, and lots of of them are constructed to order somewhat than stocked at retailers. As a result of Seiko watchmaking retains its historic bifurcation, mechanical luxurious watches are constructed on the Shizukuishi studio in Morioka, Iwate Prefecture.
Seiko Epson Company, the successor to Suwa Seikosha Co., operates the Shinshu studio and Micro Artist. As a consequence of the truth that Shinshu is a Seiko quartz and Spring Drive specialist, which means watches constructed underneath its roof all the time make use of one in every of these applied sciences.
Previous to 2016, the Micro Artist Studio launched no Grand Seiko-brand watches. Nevertheless, by the point the SBGZ003 arrived in 2020, Micro Artist was establishing small numbers of each Credor and Grand Seiko watches.
Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGZ003
The “003” is a singular timepiece as a consequence of its Spring Drive coronary heart and haute horlogerie execution. Whereas different Seiko and Grand Seiko watches boast one in every of these qualities, only a few embody each.
Ornament on the SBGZ003 is back-loaded however not unique to the caseback. Round entrance, the case has been mirror-polished on a spinning tin plate. The method, often called “Zaratsu” in Japan, requires roughly three years to grasp.
Though executed on Sallaz-style machines with European roots, at present’s foremost practitioners of this craft are the oldsters in Japan. As a consequence of the truth that the sharpening course of is freehand-guided, any tremble or slip can harm the case.
And because the 003 is a platinum watch, the method turns into much more fraught by this metallic’s tendency to smear, bubble, and pit.
Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGZ003
Grand Seiko considers this Spring Drive to be an “elegant” mannequin, so the case stays skinny, match stays unisex, and particulars just like the bubble sapphire evoke classic costume watches. Its dial features a set of Grand Seiko’s customary diamond-cut indices and palms.
Diamond-cut indices and palms on the dial of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGZ003
The impact of micro-facets and mirror end impart a sturdy luxurious ambiance. A fired metal middle seconds hand sweeps resplendent in blue. Dial engraving is a time-honored custom at Seiko, and it’s welcome on this software.
Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGZ003
Machine engraving of the time hashes and logos obviates the necessity for dial printing and imparts refined magnificence.
When Micro Artist launched the Credor Eichi in 2008, it was stung by criticism of the dial-side energy reserve indicator. However the firm clearly goals to please, in order that function moved to the caseback on the Eichi II of 2014.
Grand Seiko Caliber 9R02A drives the Spring Drive SBGZ003
And out again is precisely the place the enterprise finish of the SBGZ003 may be discovered. Caliber 9R02 is a big step ahead from the Eichi II’s 7R14. First, the brand new motion boasts 84 hours of energy reserve to the 7R14’s 60 hours.
That is made attainable by stacking two mainsprings in a single barrel and equipping the watch with a “torque return” system that diverts surplus torque from the drivetrain again to the mainsprings.
Superlative hand completed anglage of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGZ003
Second, the graceful bridge contours of the 7R14 give method to a dramatic Vallée-worthy inside angle that boasts each sharpness and depth. Few “inside” angles exhibit this sharp a junction between bevels and that’s earlier than acknowledging how deeply the crease is drawn throughout the highest of the bridges.
Energy reserve indicator on the again of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGZ003
In actual fact, all of those bevels are shockingly vibrant, spherical, and horizontally prolonged in the direction of the highest of the bridges. That is what true hand-beveled anglage seems like; it’s the kind of shine that finishes with sharpening wooden somewhat than felt on drill bit.
Bevels apart, the bridges of the 9R02 in any other case are virtually austere given the horizontal satin brushing. Nevertheless, prospers of opulence do come up within the type of fire-blued screws and mirrored sinks for screws and pivot jewels.
The Micro Artist Studio emblem of a bellflower opens the mainspring to the attention
Micro Artist’s emblem, the bellflower, is featured as an engraving on the smaller bridge and in define kind on the barrel cap. If you see this emblem on a Seiko product, you understand it’s a product of Micro Artist Studio. The mainspring barrel consists of three bellflower outlines on its skeletonized cowl.
To the artisans’ credit score, the interiors of those cutouts have been cleanly polished and rounded.
Again of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGZ003
From a technical standpoint, Spring Drive stays distinctive. Analysis and growth stretched from 1977 till the primary business software of manual-wind Spring Drive in 1999. No motors, battery-scale capacitors, or batteries drive the palms; all movement is derived from the mainspring.
Because the mainspring turns the drivetrain, a unidirectional governing wheel rotates in a magnetic area. This induces {an electrical} present which prompts a quartz timing circuit. That circuit, in flip, applies electromagnetic braking drive to the governing wheel.
The governing wheel is geared on to the palms of the watch. In abstract, mechanical drive from the mainsprings to the palms is an uninterrupted direct drive, therefore “Spring Drive.”
There’s a distinction between “low-cost” and “worth”; worth is assessed relative to alternate options. Even on the high of its catalog, Grand Seiko is a powerful relative worth.
Much less finely adorned three-hand watches such because the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu value way more on secondary markets. Much less technically subtle watches such because the Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II command increased costs nonetheless.
Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGZ003
On a qualitative and technical foundation, the SBGZ003 must be on the radars of open-minded collectors who worth innovation and refinement in equal measure.
For extra info, please go to www.grand-seiko.com/us-en/collections/sbgz003j
Fast Information: Grand Seiko SBGZ003
Reference Code: SBGZ003
Version: Launched in 2020
Case: Platinum; 38.5mm diameter; 10.3mm thick; 43.5 lug-to-lug; 19mm lug spacing; 30 meters of water resistance; push down crown
Strap: Blue alligator leather-based strap with calf lining
Clasp: Platinum single-fold deployant with set off launch; exterior buckle in PT950 and inside folding ingredient in PT900 for power.
Dial: Machine-engraved model, logos, and hash marks; indices manually crafted and positioned by hand; fired blue middle seconds hand
Motion: 9R02A by Seiko Micro Artist Studio, guide wind, 84-hour energy reserve; two mainsprings in a single barrel; torque restoration system; 39 jewels; Spring Drive; +/- 15 seconds per 30 days; hacking seconds
Features: Hours; minutes; seconds, energy reserve indicator on caseback
2024 MSRP: $57,400
2024 Preowned Value: $46,000-$49,000
* Tim Mosso is the media director and watch specialist at The 1916 Firm. You may try their very complete YouTube channel at www.youtube.com/@the1916company.
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