H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy

Nina Scally

• Moser’s surprisingly versatile Pioneer Tourbillon will get a luxe fumé burgundy twist.
• The calibre HM805 inside exposes the gear prepare and wheels via a wider opening-up of the mechanism.
• This 18ct crimson gold iteration encompasses a flying tourbillon with a double hairspring to cut back the consequences of gravity and friction.

When you’ve got a marked desire for colored dials, the brand new H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is certain to coax an involuntary smile out of you. Aiming to please followers with this newest launch, the producer (who is understood for its lack of overt branding on its dials and playful strategy to watchmaking) will seemingly remind collectors of that cherry-red lollipop second again in 2020, when the Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Pink launched, wooing followers with tones akin to a bottle of full-bodied Merlot or juicy crimson cherries.

That 42mm sports activities watch was a major instance of a design that efficiently blended simplicity and wonder with sensible good-for-anything ergonomics. The scalloped lugs and case sides, with a curved case and a supple, rally-style perforated rubber band, conjured an odd combine till you could possibly see how they interacted with each other within the flesh. This new Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy, nevertheless, shrinks the case sightly and dials up the posh, presenting time on extra muted velvety crimson nuances.

Recently, deep crimson shades appear to be proving well-liked in each the higher echelons of watchmaking and entry-level manufacturers. Final yr, IWC experimented with a burgundy dial and contrasting gold-plated arms with its Portugieser Chronograph Yr of the Dragon. On the identical time, Panerai teased an oxblood dial color out of its Luminor Due assortment. Even Montblanc dabbled in a little bit of maroon, straying from its glacier-inspired palette with a courageous and compelling crimson dial to pep up its Iced Sea assortment. In fact, burgundy is a shade that evokes the uncommon patina bezels of well-liked classic references, too.

A Moser Pioneer with a gold case isn’t any new factor. Nonetheless, of the model’s present sports activities watch assortment, this new 18ct crimson gold possibility is a pleasant knitter between the sportier metal fashions and a dressier providing, proving that it may even praise a black tie ensemble do you have to want to break the no-watch-with-tux rule. Anybody with expertise in carrying the Pioneer will know that the refined curvature of the case and the cut-out sides make it the wear-anytime-and-anywhere sort of watch that it’s. However with a extra compact case dimension of 40mm in comparison with the time-only Mad Pink, there’s extra grace to take pleasure in its domed sapphire entrance with out concern of it feeling too clunky.

These proportions and case finishes, mixed with a (contextually spectacular) 120-meter water resistance, screw-down crown, and military-green rubber band, make the brand new burgundy Pioneer Tourbillon a robust contender for a strong, dependable grab-and-go watch… Which is bizarre to say of a gold tourbillon piece. Additionally, the concept H. Moser & Cie may mix one thing as elegant as this crimson gold and burgundy watch with a khaki strap is considerably of a curve ball, but it surely works. Even so, the prospect to change out the strap to a leather-based or sailcloth possibility may add an fascinating spin to this dressier design. H. Moser & Cie does point out there are alligator leather-based and textile strap choices accessible, so selling this watch to go well with or smart-casual duties shouldn’t be an issue.

The fumé dial is one in all Moser’s specialties and requires over 200 steps to realize. The one element throughout its huge sea of deep crimson is the crimson gold hour indices and the softly tapering dauphine arms, which tie in properly with the case. The H. Moser & Cie emblem itself is executed in a clear lacquer at 12 o’clock that appears nearly invisible in some lights. The shortage of branding on a dial is an idea some fanatics (like me) will wrestle with, but it surely does adjust to the Pioneer’s simplicity.

Moser clearly desires to fortify a way of minimalism throughout this dial – apart from the tourbillon, in fact. The round cut-out at 6 o’clock is in whole service to the intricate workings of its manufacture calibre HMC 805, which has been fastidiously thought-about for extra viewing pleasure. It advantages aesthetically from skeletonised bridges in an anthracite end and a bevelled rotor that enables for a broader view of the gear prepare. It performs at a fee of 21,600 VPH, guaranteeing a three-day energy reserve, and boasts a double hairspring to counteract the consequences of gravity and friction. The part is developed by the model’s sister firm, Precision Engineering AG – an escapement part producer that’s a grasp at enhancing isochronism. Improvements like its personal cylindrical hairspring function in Moser designs.

H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy pricing and availability

The H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is out there now. Value: US$65,900/CHF 59,900