HTD Hesagraph MkII Variante B

Time+Tide

Wanting on the historical past of horology previously 100 years, there are three genres of watches we most frequently examine: discipline watches, dive watches, and chronographs. The latter is what pursuits us at the moment because it hardly ever is the kind of watch micro and unbiased manufacturers launch – or extra particularly, mechanical chronographs, as there are many quartz and mechaquartz choices accessible available on the market at the moment. This could be on account of the price of utilising mechanical chronograph actions and the complexity of servicing them. However watch lovers have been asking for such timekeeping units which solely high-end Swiss and Japanese manufacturers sometimes provide at a extra inexpensive value – and increasingly more indies are answering the decision. The most recent model to take action is Italy’s HTD, with the Hesagraph MkII.

The case

The very first thing to notice with this mannequin is its total compact type issue which is surprisingly good for a mechanical chrono, which notoriously have a tendency in direction of the thicker facet. Made from 316L chrome steel, the case of the HTD Hesagraph MkII strikes a superb stability between being well-proportioned (learn: snug) and searching distinct (it’s totally polished) with out overdoing it. With dimensions of 39mm in diameter, 48mm lug-to-lug, and 12.4mm tall, the Hesagraph does certainly put on properly. as pictured right here on a 6.25-inch wrist. Its profile is extra straight than curved, provided that the lugs solely shyly flip down towards the wrist and that they’re broad and lengthy with an inside and slender chamfer. However this isn’t an issue for me and it received’t be one for you in case your wrists are of the identical diameter as mine or bigger.

One other factor to notice, and one which is maybe contradictory to the earlier paragraph, is the noticeable wrist presence the HTD instructions due partially to its meant function – the three sub-registers name for our consideration – and the actual form of the case. Apart from the lugs, the Hesagraph MkII has a masculine look with a bezel that appears broad in relation to the dial. This is because of its mountain-peak form the place the inside portion of it slopes down at a delicate angle in direction of the crystal whereas the outer part angles down extra sharply in direction of the mid-case. And with each side of the bezel being totally polished, it’s arduous to overlook it because it displays mild in any respect angles. It must be famous that the sharpening work right here is sort of spectacular as it’s constant and comes with a pronounced mirror-like look.

The dial

The easiest way to explain the dial of the HTD Hesagraph MkII, particularly this “Variante B” mannequin, is solely traditional. We discover a traditional tri-compax structure with a working seconds sub-register at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute totalizer at 3, and a 12-hour totalizer at 6. The latter sub-registers pop for having white backgrounds which distinction intensely with the black (and nearly brown at occasions) dial. Every sub-register is designed with a function-first method to be extremely legible even at regular watch-reading distance. For instance, the hours on the 12-hour totalizer are indicated by hashes and the 12, 3, 6, and 9 are highlighted with Arabic numerals while the half hours are indicated with dots. An identical design language is used on the working seconds sub-register the place the 5-second increments are indicated with hashes and punctuated with dots.

The latter design components of the Hesagraph MkII look fairly sporty and are paying homage to Nineteen Seventies/Eighties-era Rolex Daytonas and Omega Speedmasters. However one other contradiction comes when the remainder of the dial which appears to be like rather more elegant and “on a regular basis” than the sub-registers. The hour markers are totally polished and utilized, doubled on the twelve, and the pencil-style hour and minute fingers are additionally totally polished.

Minimal branding above the pinion enhances the tool-y facet of the Hesagraph MkII, as does the totally graduated minute observe which disappears at some angles on account of the distortions created by the curved, top-hat sapphire crystal. However combining the totally polished case with the quite a few polished accents on the dial – all six fingers and the hour markers – the Hesagraph additionally comes with a sure elegant Italian attract. Notice there’s a second colourway of this watch referred to as the Cannoli which has a bicompax structure and a cream dial, however in any other case boasts the identical specs and value.

The bracelet

Maybe unsurprisingly, the HTD Hesagraph MkII is shipped on a three-link chrome steel bracelet full with screwed hyperlinks and a small double-pusher deployant clasp. Nevertheless, one thing that’s an sudden shock is that the clasp has 4 old style factors of micro adjustment and no quick-release spring bars. (The lugs aren’t drilled.) The benefit of an old-school clasp like this one is being skinny and slender, and subsequently snug to put on.

The motion

Inside this HTD we discover a hand-wound Swiss-made Sellita SW510M which ticks at 28,800 BPH (4Hz) and has 56 hours of energy reserve. It’s a fully-fledged mechanical chronograph motion that’s extremely versatile and practical. The truth that it’s a manual-winding calibre additionally partially explains the relative thinness (12.4mm) of this mannequin.

HTD Hesagraph MkII Variante B pricing and availability

The HTD Hesagraph MkII assortment is obtainable now for rapid buy and delivery through the model’s web site. Worth: €1,549

Made in partnership with HTD. Nevertheless, the opinions expressed on this article are our personal in accordance with our Editorial Coverage.