Introducing: The Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075BH — A Collector-Worthy Pilot's Watch For The Maison's 250th Anniversary
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What We Know
As a part of its 250th anniversary celebration, Breguet has taken flight as soon as extra — this time, over Manhattan. Following current celebratory stops in Paris with the Classique Souscription and Shanghai with the Custom Seconde Rétrograde, the model touched down in New York to unveil the brand new Sort XX Chronographe 2075BH, a pair of manually wound, solid-gold chronographs that breathe contemporary life into the pilot’s watch that after helped save the model. And whereas final yr’s metal Sort 20 and Sort XX marked the official relaunch of the gathering, this launch is one thing extra private — much less a reboot, extra a love letter.
The 2075BH assortment introduces two references: one with a black anodized aluminum dial, the opposite with a restricted version of 250 in vertically brushed stable silver. Each watches characteristic a 38.3mm case made from “Breguet gold”, a proprietary alloy unveiled earlier this yr with a heat, blonde tone that straddles yellow and rose gold. That measurement — and using a hand-wound motion — are direct callbacks to a 1955 civilian Sort XX reference 1780 that now sits within the Breguet museum.
Inside, the brand new fashions characteristic an evolution of final yr’s 5Hz caliber 728 chronograph motion, launched within the 2023 metal reference. For the 2075BH, Breguet has developed two manually wound variants: caliber 7279 (black dial with a 15-minute counter) and caliber 7278 (silver dial with a 30-minute counter and tachymeter). Each actions retain flyback performance, important for aviation use, and at the moment are adorned with a hand-engraved depiction of the Breguet 19 plane mid-flight throughout the Atlantic — a nod to the primary Paris-to-New York flight in 1930 by aviators Dieudonné Costes and Maurice Bellonte, who accomplished the flight in a Breguet-built plane.
That transatlantic achievement is the emotional coronary heart of this launch. The black dial is made from aluminum — a primary for Breguet — and pays tribute to Louis Breguet’s pioneering work with Duralumin in aviation. The silver dial, in contrast, is marked “Ag925” and delivers a extra basic class. Luminous Arabic numerals adorn the black variant, paired with the outsized minute register for a real military-derived utilitarian really feel. Utilized non-luminous Arabic numerals sit at 12 and 6 o’clock on the silver dial choice, whereas pointed batons make up the rest. Each are delivered with an identical gradient leather-based strap and crimson Moroccan leather-based field impressed by classic packaging.
The black dial Breguet Sort XX Chronographe 2075BH isn’t a restricted version and can retail for $43,500, and the silver dial is restricted to 250 items and carries a price ticket of $45,200.
What We Assume
To grasp the brand new 2075BH, it helps to recall a duo of Breguet releases from two years in the past. The 2023 metal Sort 20 and Sort XX fashions represented a major reset for the road, fastidiously break up into two distinct fashions — one patterned after a Nineteen Fifties military-spec watch, the opposite based mostly on a civilian model. These fashions have been bigger at 42mm in diameter, computerized, and aimed squarely at bridging Breguet’s high-horology ethos with the mass enchantment of its heritage design. They have been seen as a stutter step in the suitable route and helped to place the Sort XX again within the highlight, however left many collectors and lovers wanting.
The factor is, the Sort XX is a particularly vital mannequin in Breguet wristwatch historical past — arguably crucial. Beginning in 1953, the model would go on to supply roughly 2,000 examples of the military-spec Sort 20 wristwatch and one other 500 or so civilian Sort XXs. On this interval, Breguet’s annual wristwatch manufacturing was within the low lots of, so 2,000 over the course of some many years was a complete lot. Many imagine the unique Sort 20 and the civilian Sort XX are a big a part of the rationale Breguet exists in the present day, with a steady historical past again to its founding in 1775. A 250th anniversary would not really feel fairly pretty much as good if the model disappeared for some time, would it not?
The brand new-for-2025 gold 2075BHs are, for essentially the most half, precisely what lovers have needed from a contemporary Sort XX. That is Breguet in collector mode, refining the method for a distinct type of viewers. The specs are all there — manually wound, examine; sub 39mm case, examine. And the aesthetics again up the specs too; simply check out the numeral fonts within the outer monitor of the silver dial. Does it get significantly better than that for a classic watch fanatic?
At $43,500 and $45,200, respectively, these aren’t on a regular basis pilots’ watches. They’re stable Breguet gold anniversary items. Story-driven, detail-oriented, and constructed for individuals who discover and care in regards to the little issues. But it does not really feel pressured, all of it serves the brand new positioning, really feel, and angle of Gregory Kissling’s Breguet — aptly timed respect for the model’s wealthy historical past within the type of extraordinarily compelling and collectible releases.
Our very personal Mark Kauzlarich shall be going Palms-On with this pair briefly order. This is a stay photograph to carry you throughout till then!
The Fundamentals
Model: Breguet
Mannequin: Breguet Sort XX Chronographe 2075BH
Diameter: 38.3mm
Thickness: 13.2mm
Case Materials: 18k Breguet gold
Dial Colour: Anodized aluminum, vertically brushed stable silver
Indexes: Utilized luminous Arabic numerals, Utilized Arabic 12 and 6 with pointed batons
Lume: Sure
Water Resistance: 50mm
Strap/Bracelet: Interchangeable gradient black or blue calfskin with 18k Breguet gold pin buckle
The Motion
Caliber: 7279, 7278
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, flyback, 15-minute totalizer; hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, 30-minute totalizer,
Energy Reserve: 60 hours
Winding: Manually-wound
Frequency: 5Hz
Extra Particulars: Flat silicon stability spring, inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns
Pricing & Availability
Value: $43,500 (black dial), $45,200 (silver dial)
Availability: By way of Breguet boutiques
Restricted Version: No, sure of 250 items
For extra, go to Breguet on-line.
