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I wrote this prolonged assessment on the chrome steel Sort XX Chronographe 2067 late final yr. Yow will discover (and skim) it right here. If you wish to skip to the conclusion, I ended that assessment with the next paragraph: “I hope Breguet will introduce extra variations of the fashionable Sort XX which might be nearer to the Solely Watch 2021 version with its 38.3mm case. Add the brand new motion and a black dial as a substitute of a brown one, and it might break the web.”
Breguet Sort XX Chronographe 2075
Nicely, they did. Meet the 2 new Breguet Sort XX Chronograph 2075 fashions. One comes with a black anodized aluminum dial, and the opposite with a pure (Ag925) silver dial. Each Sort XX Chronographe watches keep true to the unique measurement of the 38.3mm talked about above. These fashions are a part of Breguet’s 250th anniversary celebration fashions, after the Custom 7035 and Souscription 2025. I’ve not seen these new watches within the flesh but, however I’m smitten by these new Breguet 250th anniversary watches. I can’t wait to offer them a spin, as I really feel the brand new Breguet CEO is doing an incredible job getting the correct watches and design again into the gathering.
Breguet Sort XX ref. 1780 from 1955. Picture: Breguet
Sort XX Nr. 1780
Based on Breguet, these fashions are based mostly on a Sort XX from 1955, with serial quantity 1780. I’ve proven you this watch earlier than, right here.
The Breguet Sort XX above from 1955 was one of many three gold watches produced again then, and you may admire it within the Breguet Museum in Paris. Utilizing the Sort XX nr. 1780 for instance, Breguet designed the brand new Sort XX Chronographe reference 2075, obtainable with two totally different dial configurations. Along with the watch’s applicable dimensions, we’re happy that it doesn’t embody a date window. Lastly!
In my hands-on assessment, I wrote that the date window didn’t trouble me a lot throughout my time with it. And I nonetheless stand by that. Nonetheless, it merely seems to be a lot better with out one. And right here’s the proof!
Two totally different dials
We discover a reference to the fabric used on the black dial model. It’s an aluminum alloy, so there’s this “Al” reference between the 7 and eight numerals. The silver dial model exhibits “Ag925” on the similar place because the black dial model. Let’s say I’m not bothered by it, however utilizing these indicators additionally goes a bit past my understanding of why placing them there’s vital. The dials have the Breguet wordmark utilized in gold, as are all of the fingers on the black dial variation. The silver dial makes use of gold hour and minute fingers, and the smaller fingers and chronograph second hand are blued metal ones. The silver mannequin has gold utilized numerals and indexes, whereas the black dial Sort XX makes use of painted indexes and numerals.
Breguet’s black dial Sort XX ref. 2075 intently resembles the unique gold Sort XX and the watch as an entire. Based on Breguet’s archives, the unique civilian mannequin in gold was initially delivered with a satin-finish silver dial, which was later changed by a black one. Consequently, Breguet additionally created a reinterpretation of that gold watch with a silver dial, restricted to solely 250 items. I’m extra drawn to the brand new Sort XX with the black anodized aluminum dial, however a few of my staff right here desire the extra classic-looking silver dial variation.
Two Breguet calibers
Along with the dial materials and shade, there’s one other distinction. As you’ll be able to see within the footage, the silver-dial Sort XX has a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, whereas the black-dial Sort XX includes a 15-minute counter. The actions are based mostly on the self-winding caliber 728 launched in 2023, however they’re now hand-wound. The caliber 7279 powers the black-dial Sort XX with a 15-minute counter, whereas the caliber 7278 is used within the silver-dial model with the 30-minute counter.
Each actions are, after all, outfitted with the fly-back perform. It was thought of a time-saver for pilots utilizing the chronograph to not must cease, reset, and restart the motion once more. One click on on the reset button is sufficient to reset and restart the chronograph perform. Moreover, each Breguet actions have an influence reserve of 60 hours and tick at 36,000vph (or 5Hz).
Breguet XIX Plane
Breguet’s new hand-wound motion leaves sufficient house for a lovely engraving on the mainplate, and that’s exactly what they did. The actions are gilded within the Breguet gold launched earlier this yr. Then, they engraved the Breguet 19 plane and a map with the precise route it took in 1930. It flew from Paris to New York and was the primary airplane ever to take action. This airplane is displayed (since 1937) on the Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace at Le Bourget, Paris. The motion is a pleasure to take a look at through the sapphire crystal on the again facet.
Availability and pricing
As written above, the case measures 38.3mm in diameter and 13.2mm in thickness. The whole lot is crafted in 18K Breguet gold, which means it has this barely rose hue to it. The gold weight is 53 grams for the Sort XX reference 2075. The silver dial version is individually numbered on the case again, as much as quantity 250/250.
The retail worth of the black dial Sort XX (reference 2075BH/99/398) is CHF 36,500, together with taxes. The silver dial restricted version Sort XX (reference 2075BH/G9/398) has a retail worth of CHF 38,000, together with taxes. Breguet delivers every watch in a lovely pink leather-based case that includes the 250th anniversary emblem.
Some afterthoughts on the Breguet Sort XX 2075
It appears to me that Breguet is having run in 2025. This third introduction for the 250th anniversary yr is one thing a variety of fanatics have been asking for. Based on Gregory Kissling, Breguet’s CEO, this assortment will proceed to evolve when it comes to diameters, finishes, and supplies. Out of the three new releases in 18K Breguet gold, it’s not simple making a alternative, which is an effective factor! I can’t wait to strive these on, and I barely desire the aluminum dial model.
However as you recognize, that may all change when attempting them within the flesh. Gregory Kissling and his staff achieved that Breguet is commonly the subject of dialogue amongst fanatics once more. And I believe that these Sort XX 2075 are value discussing for certain!
Extra data through the Breguet web site.
