Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time

Russell Sheldrake

LVMH Watch Week 2025 appears like a lifetime in the past, now that we’re approaching Watches and Wonders Geneva at mild velocity. However one launch from Louis Vuitton that actually caught my eye was the reintroduction of the Spin Time complication. It has been of their catalogue since 2009, however ever because the relaunch of the Tambour again in 2023, Louis Vuitton (in partnership with La Fabrique du Temps) has been displaying the watch world precisely what a “trend home” is able to. So after they introduced a brand new look and calibre for the Spin Time, I used to be intrigued: in spite of everything, the brand new Tambour was my watch of the yr in 2023 which led to me getting maintain of the blue dial/stainless-steel model and evaluating it with Andrew and his chocolate dial/rose gold mannequin for per week on the wrist.

This time round, I managed to pay money for two of the 4 new Tambour Taiko Spin Time fashions – particularly the usual 39.5mm model and the horologically fantastic flying tourbillon – to see if Louis Vuitton has managed to drag it off once more. Attending to expertise each case sizes for this new household of watches, and each ends of the value spectrum, was an ideal alternative – right here’s my ideas.

The dials

The Spin Time’s dial has captivated me from the day I first noticed the press launch. These new examples are an training in discount, stripping every part proper again to the fundamentals in essentially the most elevated manner potential. Beginning with the stable dial 39.5mm Tambour Taiko Spin Time, the small central dial has a singular minute hand working from its center, and a sunray brush following it, with a minimal, pad-printed “Louis Vuitton, Paris” logomark. It is usually potential to get this central part in Hawk’s Eye on the diamond-encrusted model. We transfer out from there to a lowered minute monitor and refined (nearly defunct) utilized hour markers which all make manner for the star of the present: the twelve rotating hour cubes. These cubes are surrounded by a stable, monochrome ‘dolphin gray’ dial, permitting the silver cubes to raised stand out and permit for simpler time studying.

Switching over to the Flying Tourbillon, the one a part of the dial that actually stays constant within the minute monitor and the spinning cubes – every part else will get tailored right here. Within the center, we get a 60-second flying tourbillon with an LV flower motif cage. That is an extremely tall element, spanning nearly the whole peak of the motion. However we are going to speak extra about that later on this evaluate. As soon as we transfer exterior of the tourbillon properly, we discover a rotating ring with a white minute hand hooked up that’s learn from the lowered minute monitor surrounding it. After which, the dial all of the sudden stops, because the 12 cubes protrude out, seemingly floating above the wrist when worn. These cubes are barely competing on your consideration with the tourbillon within the centre, however provided that one among them is much extra practical when it comes to time telling than the opposite, they don’t compete in relation to admiration.

The circumstances

The circumstances listed below are just about the identical, past being completely different sizes (39.5mm and 42.5mm), completely different water resistances (100m vs 50m), and one boasts a show caseback whereas the opposite is closed. So let’s concentrate on the commonalities right here. Maybe essentially the most spectacular a part of these circumstances is the lugs. They’re produced individually to the case and screwed in, which implies that they are often completed to a a lot increased degree of complexity than a typical lug. Right here we see a concave floor that has been laser completed to a satisfying matte texture that mirrors that used on the skinny bezel, whereas the remainder of the lug is given a excessive polish that permits its curved floor to play with the sunshine splendidly.

These white gold circumstances definitely carry the load of the valuable steel properly, with the stable caseback model having an ideal really feel on the wrist. Whereas the transparency of the Flying Tourbillon nearly makes the case disappear when in your wrist, the skinny bezel with the 12 letters of Louis Vuitton spelt out in aid is basically the one discernible element of word right here.

The actions

The bottom of each of those actions is actually the identical, however rather a lot has needed to be reworked to accommodate the flying tourbillon. The LFT ST13.01 acts as the bottom calibre by way of the whole vary: a refreshed model of the motion developed by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini in 2007 who have been on the time working BNB Idea and now head up La Fabrique du Temps. It was made particularly for Louis Vuitton, and now Navas and Barbaisni have improved on their authentic design. Not solely do two cubes bounce instantaneously, however they’ll now be set ahead or backwards due to additional security precautions being in-built.

To create area for the flying tourbillon, the whole motion works needed to be shifted to the perimeter of the bottom plate, and all this whereas solely including 1.72mm to the general thickness of the calibre. Whereas each the usual LFT ST13.01 and LFT ST05.01 are absolutely automated with full rose gold rotors, they’re restricted to simply 45 hours of energy reserve. However they’re extremely small actions and constructing larger energy reserves into them would require a dramatic shift in dimensions. The instantaneous leaping of the cubes is achieved by Maltese cross gears being actuated on the finish of every dice’s stem by way of an intricate leaping hour system that continues to be hidden on each of those fashions, however it could be nice to get a view of it in a skeletonised model additional down the road.

The straps

The smaller, time-only Tambour Taiko Spin Time comes on an built-in rubber strap with an LV texture all through. This rubber strap could be one of many comfiest I’ve tried on and there’s something oddly reassuring about having a pin buckle on this selection, moderately than an overcomplicated deployant. The Flying Tourbillon comes on an especially refined calf leather-based strap in beige, once more with a white gold pin buckle. The rubber strap makes the usual mannequin really feel far nearer to the sporty commonplace Tambour, whereas the leather-based strap offers a dressier vibe that makes this lugged Tambour mannequin really feel nearer to the brand new Escale.

The decision

It’s clear from this newest step from Louis Vuitton and La Fabrique du Temps that this duo are set to compete with the large field manufacturers in relation to design and watchmaking prowess. Whereas the relaunched Tambour line remains to be devoid of issues, the Taiko Spin Time fashions are clearly the playground of LFT, permitting the watchmakers there to show their excellence to an business and buyer base the place they’re nonetheless thought of relative newcomers.

It’s a threat to launch such costly watches at a time when purse strings look like being drawn tight and so I think about it a courageous transfer by Jean Arnault and his staff to convey these watches out after they have. (Editor’s word: suppose these are dangerous? What in regards to the new €550,000 Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6?) There might have been extra commercially viable choices accessible to them, however they’ve as an alternative opted to make an announcement of intent with these releases that present the energy of the Tambour case form, and the breadth of their watchmakers’ skills. All that mentioned, I’d nonetheless take the straightforward, time solely, 39.5mm Spin Time over the remainder of the gathering for its pure wearability, and dressy-sports aesthetic.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time and Taiko Spin Time Air Flying Tourbillon pricing and availability

Each the Lois Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time and Tambour Taiko Spin Time Air Flying Tourbillon are restricted to 150 items every. Worth: US$72,500 (Taiko Spin Time), US$172,000 (Taiko Spin Time Air Flying Tourbillon)