Monceau Model 01 | MICRO MONDAYS

Borna Bošnjak

The information of a loved-but-lost watch model being introduced again to life shouldn’t be an unusual sight within the watch business. Whether or not that’s giant conglomerates like Breitling shopping for the Common Genève and Gallet manufacturers, or independents like Guillaume Laidet selecting and selecting cult classics like Nivada Grenchen and Excelsior Park, it’s a simple manner for the brand new homeowners to carry quick legitimacy and recognition regardless of the interval of dormancy. It’s a double-edged sword, nonetheless. In the event you don’t do them justice, particularly within the eyes of devoted collectors, it may well all go downhill fairly shortly.

A safer, however definitely harder various, is to try to revive a comparatively unknown model. Not solely will or not it’s simpler to affect future designs, it’ll additionally generate intrigue among the many gathering neighborhood, who will likely be wanting to know extra. That’s the trail Simon Ryan is taking – possible better-known by his on-line moniker Escapement24 – as he re-launches Monceau with the brand new Mannequin 01.

The dial

In contrast to a lot of the classic examples you’ll come throughout, the Mannequin 01 shouldn’t be a chronograph. As a substitute, Ryan opted for a easy, three-hander with date format atop a dimensional, wave dial. The obelisque handset is kind of easy, with the seconds hand getting a low-poly, octagonal tip. The true deal with on the dial for me, although, is the stable blocks of lume used for the indices. For a flexible sports activities watch, it’s an effective way of making certain the dial will keep legible after darkish, with out compromising on look, and I’m glad to see increasingly manufacturers utilizing them.

Additionally commendable is that Ryan didn’t go overboard with textual content. A easy Monceau brand and textual content is front-and-centre at 12 (the minimalist in me would shrink the complete title much more), with the water-resistance score colour-matched to the child blue highlights at 6. Of the 4 color variants, the black and white are stable, whereas the gray and purple additionally get a delicate smoked gradient in the direction of the minute observe.

The case

Although it’s been leaping round a bit, it looks like the perfect dimensions for a contemporary, built-in bracelet sports activities watch have just about settled round 39mm. Monceau matches that with the Mannequin 01, combining it with a thickness of 10.2mm and lug-to-lug of 44.7mm. It’s the previous dimension that’s notably spectacular, because the Mannequin 01 doubles the standard 100-metre water-resistance score we’re used to with this type of watch. The metal case is completed as you’d anticipate from a watch of this type, with brushing dominating its flat surfaces, highlighted by large, polished aspects.

The bracelet

Now, I did say allude to built-in bracelet watches within the final paragraph, however the Mannequin 01 isn’t actually a real instance of 1. Trying intently on the tops of the lugs, you’ll discover a reduce line that unveils the form of a detachable end-link. Monceau is capitalising on this with the choice of a leather-based strap at launch, however I do suppose that this mannequin appears greatest on its bracelet, as the entire design appears to have been centred round this built-in aesthetic.

And so far as the bracelet goes, its H-link design will get a extremely large, polished aspect down the shoulder for a reasonably cool look, ending in a dive-style folding clasp. Regardless of not being as cohesive in design, that is my most popular sort of clasp over a butterfly because it permits for micro-adjustment. Having stated that, we’ve seen just a few manufacturers now bringing micro-adjustable butterfly clasps too, so I wouldn’t be offended if Monceau selected to improve within the subsequent iteration.

The motion

Eager to proceed the lineage of these Sixties, manually-wound Valjoux chronographs, Ryan has chosen the Sellita SW210 to energy the Mannequin 01. The particular/elaboré grade means an honest diploma of commercial ornament – primarily Geneva stripes on the gear prepare bridge – and tighter accuracy requirements as per Sellita’s pointers. To be completely sincere, I’d’ve most popular this watch to be computerized, on condition that it’s a sports activities watch, although I do admire the thinness that’s possible contributed to by the shortage of a winding rotor. With a 42-hour energy reserve and 4Hz beat fee, it’s a typical set of specs for an entry-level Swiss motion in 2025.

Monceau Mannequin 01 pricing and availability

The Monceau Mannequin 01 is launching on Kickstarter on the thirtieth of Might, with the marketing campaign ending on the fifteenth on June. Head to monceauwatches.com to join precedence updates forward of the Mannequin 01 launch in addition to particulars of the early-bird reductions accessible when the Kickstarter marketing campaign and pre-order window opens. Value: £599 (early hen, 48 hours after launch solely), £679 (Kickstarter value, ~25% off RRP) 

Made in partnership with Monceau. Nevertheless, the opinions expressed on this article are our personal in accordance with our Editorial Coverage.