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A rattrapante, split-second, or double chronograph will not be one thing you see day-after-day. Such a chronograph, able to measuring intermediate occasions with out interrupting the continuing measurement of an extended elapsed time, is a critically difficult watch. For a lot of, together with me, the double chronograph is likely one of the most fascinating problems the world of Haute Horlogerie has to supply. And Montblanc has one on supply. It’s a split-second chronograph that sits in an extended and engaging timeline. The burgundy-dial Montblanc 1858 Break up Second Chronograph Restricted Version is a rattrapante chronograph with a high-end, handmade, and hand-finished Minerva motion. The watch is proscribed to 100 items, that means it is going to be a rarity, similar to all creations of its sort. Fortunately, a kind of uncommon creations made its approach to Fratello HQ, the place we acquired to expertise the magic of a top-end split-second chronograph.
This Montblanc 1858 Break up Second Chronograph Restricted Version will not be the primary of its sort. In 2019, the 1858 Break up Second Chronograph debuted in a restricted version of 100 bronze watches, a shocking materials for a watch of the very best horological stage. What adopted was a titanium model with a blue Grand Feu enamel dial, a one-off for the Solely Watch charity public sale in titanium with a blue agate dial, and an 18-piece restricted version in Lime Gold with inexperienced particulars. Now Montblanc introduces a metal model with a white gold fluted bezel and a smoky burgundy dial in a restricted run of 100 items. This 44 × 15.2mm watch is spectacular and charismatic in equal measure. Sure, it’s massive, however it additionally has nice proportions. The colorway is heat, and the additional central seconds hand of the chronograph makes a watch lover’s coronary heart bounce.
The Montblanc 1858 Break up Second Chronograph Restricted Version: The Minerva background
Richemont, the group of which Montblanc is a component, acquired Minerva in 2007. The Minerva model title was first registered in 1886, however the brothers behind the model, Charles and Hippolyte Robert, began their watchmaking atelier in Minerva in 1858, the 12 months that’s within the title of the watch. Over time, Minerva grew to become well-known for its actions, equivalent to its first chronograph caliber, the 19-9. Later, caliber 13.20CH, one of many first monopusher chronograph actions, debuted, and a number of other outstanding actions adopted.
What these well-regarded actions had in frequent was the excessive stage of ending. A Minerva motion stood out with its trademark V-shaped bridge and “satan’s tail,” the latter of which is, actually, the arrow within the model’s historic emblem that honors the Roman goddess of crafts (amongst different issues, equivalent to knowledge and warfare). The distinctive V form of the bridge is impressed by the towering mountains outdoors the watchmaking atelier in Villeret.
Quick-forward to the 2000s, with Minerva within the arms of luxurious watch conglomerate Richemont. What was the group going to do with Minerva — have it proceed as a standalone model or combine it and its savoir faire into one of many manufacturers within the portfolio? Panerai was eager to soak up it, however it was Montblanc that acquired fortunate. In 2007, Minerva was affiliated with Montblanc, and the Villeret facility grew to become the Institut Minerva de Recherches en Haute Horlogerie (Minerva Institute for Excessive Watchmaking).
Producing grails
Montblanc watches with a Minerva coronary heart had been one thing particular from the get-go. Our very personal Andreas Ahrens noticed the 2019 1858 Break up Second Chronograph, and it grew to become his grail watch, which he finally purchased. That is what he wrote about that watch:
“I realized that Montblanc, after Richemont purchased Minerva and made it a part of the model, was providing high-end chronographs with hand-finished actions at surprisingly honest costs. In 2019, Montblanc offered the 1858 Break up Second Chronograph. I might hardly consider it — a full-fledged conventional rattrapante with a blinding, hand-finished motion! A type of chronographs then joined my assortment.”
Andreas agrees that the watch is massive, however I agree with him when he writes that “the M16.31 pocket watch motion inside requires these dimensions.” It’s tempting to name the hand-wound and hand-finished caliber MB M16.31 the star of the present. Sure, the dial and metal case with its finely fluted white gold bezel are additionally lookers, however the motion is a three-dimensional microspectacle. All the superbly adorned surfaces stand out brilliantly, and when you realize that Minerva produced the hairspring in-house, you see it with totally different eyes. Minerva chronograph actions are traditionally famend for his or her lovely structure and ending. The motion inside the brand new burgundy-dial rattrapante lives as much as that fame.
A glance by the case again’s sapphire crystal reveals Geneva stripes, perlage on the bottom plate, bridges in rhodium-plated German silver, interior anglage, polished bevels, black sprucing, round graining, and a number of different old-school methods utilized by hand.
The dazzling 287-part MB M16.31
The ability supply of the brand new burgundy-colored rattrapante provides a have a look at the wealthy historical past of Minerva. The 287-part, 25-jewel caliber MB M16.31 pays homage to the historic pocket watch calibers 19-09CH and 17-29. This explains its beneficiant 38.4mm diameter. Caliber MB M16.31 is an advanced evolution of the MB M16.29, because it now options an added split-seconds mechanism. It has two column wheels for the chronograph and split-second operate, a horizontal coupling, and a 50-hour energy reserve. The massive steadiness wheel, with 18 screws and an in-house overcoil hairspring adjusted with a swan-neck regulator, beats at a chilled frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour.
44mm on the wrist
The Montblanc 1858 Break up Second Chronograph Restricted Version takes inspiration from the Nineteen Thirties 42mm navy monopusher split-second chronographs. The massive MB M16.31 wanted a barely greater case to really feel snug, so Montblanc opted for a 44mm one. Topping this metal case is a set and finely fluted 18K white gold bezel.
Sure, the watch sits prominently on the wrist, however since I’m used to carrying a spherical 44mm watch, my Chronoswiss Timemaster, it by no means felt too massive or uncomfortable. If you put on this watch, you’re totally conscious you’re carrying it, however you additionally need to be totally conscious due to what it’s — a high-horology complication.
Although I’m not the most important fan of smoky dials, I make an exception for this one. The darkish burgundy shade with its radiant sunray ornament, contrasting black chronograph counters, and white luminescent Arabic numerals works splendidly. The black sub-dials correspond to the dial’s darkish edges, and the contemporary white particulars present lightness and glorious readability.
Classical hour, minute, and small seconds arms, white-lacquered central chronograph arms, and a 30-minute chronograph counter in the identical shade, full a glance I’ll describe as “lavish instrumental.” The tachymeter scale (base 1000) that runs across the dial gained’t see a lot on a regular basis use, I think. Nonetheless, it’s a historic and useful nod to the unique watch. It additionally places the cherry on the cake of this spectacular but charming rattrapante.
Lastly, the worth of the burgundy-dial Montblanc 1858 Break up Second Chronograph Restricted Version
This watch comes outfitted with a darkish burgundy calfskin strap with an alligator print and a chrome steel dual-deployant clasp with a positive adjustment system. The strap, which has a quick-release system for simple tool-free swapping, is of nice high quality. Its shade is wealthy and deep, and the calf leather-based feels delicate and nice, displaying a excessive stage of ending. Working the folding clasp is a bit (too) difficult for my style, however I perceive why Montblanc makes use of it. A pin buckle on a watch that prices €60,000 is a fake pas in many individuals’s eyes.
And there may be the worth of the most recent Montblanc 1858 Break up Second Chronograph Restricted Version. Certainly, I intentionally waited to say the worth as a result of Haute Horlogerie split-second chronographs not often include a five-digit price ticket. I’m not saying this can be a low-cost watch within the slightest. Nonetheless, it might put the legendary rattrapante on the achievable bucket lists of extra watch aficionados than earlier than.
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