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Selecting my favourite Datejust wasn’t a easy train. From 2021 by way of most of 2023, I acquired a number of classic references. Every one was chosen for a cause. Arduous-to-find dials mixed with sharp circumstances and atypical bezels had been my recreation. Two years later, these Datejust fashions stay as common choices in my carrying rotation. They’re implausible, match fantastically, and run like diesel tractors. However there’s one mannequin that edges out the remainder, and that’s the 1601 no-lume lavender dial.
Practically two years in the past, I wrote a radical accounting of the Rolex Datejust 1601 I bought from Wind Classic. The watch was virtually a missed alternative, however luck stepped in on the finish. Nonetheless, I lined that portion together with the situation of the watch and the dial’s beautiful hue. So, what can I write about in the present day? Nicely, I’ve worn the watch comparatively usually since 2023, and I’ve come to understand its magnificence much more. Oh, and Charlie Dunne from Wind Classic despatched a pleasant piece of proof concerning these lavender dials that I’ll be blissful to share.
A recap: the 1601 no-lume lavender dial
I’m an everyday watcher of the Wind Classic website. Eric and Charlie are continuously including new items, and even when I can not afford most of them, it’s enjoyable to have a look at beautiful examples of uncommon and/or fascinating fashions. It was early 2023, and our household was wanting ahead to our annual Easter journey to South Florida. Within the background, I had been following a number of watches in preparation for a aspect go to to see Eric. The 1601 no-lume lavender dial was a curious piece. I had heard of those dials, however I hadn’t completed a lot analysis on them.
Picture: Wind Classic
Quick-forward to my go to, and Eric introduced out a pile of cool issues to strive on for measurement. Curiously, the 1601 wasn’t amongst them. I requested, and to my shock, after what felt like months of sitting on the positioning, the watch had bought the night time earlier than. Nonetheless, he introduced out the watch, and I used to be instantly taken with it. Wind Classic posts constant pictures, however the piece was totally different within the steel. The dial was hotter and confirmed stronger hints of lavender in individual. Plus, the situation was unreal for a watch that left the manufacturing facility in 1971. I left with the proviso that I’d fortunately purchase the 1601 if the client determined to negate the acquisition. Lower than every week later, fortune smiled on me, and the watch was mine.

To this point, two years of uniqueness
Let’s be sincere, most classic Rolex watches should not unusual. Go to any huge metropolis classic watch store, watch an public sale, or head to a get-together, and there’s an excellent probability that Rolex is the commonest sight. Due to this fact, when seasoned Rolex collectors cease and look twice on the 1601 no-lume lavender Datejust, you start to understand that it’s comparatively distinctive.
Overtly, I didn’t purchase this 1601 for attention-grabbing functions, however I did purchase it as a result of it’s so totally different. Rolex provided beautiful blue dials on its Datejust fashions, however the bulk of the choices had been comparatively subdued. Black, grey, silver, and white are the traditional fare. They’re beautiful, however a lighter shade of purple? Now that’s wild!

Myths versus actuality
Many, together with myself, had been underneath the impression that these dials started life as grey or silver and that point had altered the hue. Nonetheless, seeing one in individual reveals a tone so constant and clear that the same old age spots or edge coloration variations present in a closely aged dial don’t exist. Plus, on the no-lume lavender model I personal, there’s no tritium to change the paint. However moderately than persevering with to touch upon this anecdotal proof, let’s share one thing extra resolute.
1972 Rolex Japan Catalog
Charlie Dunne, the tenacious researcher that he’s, shared a screenshot of a 1972 Rolex Japan catalog. Right here, we are able to see varied dial colours, and lavender is a transparent choice. It’s fascinating as a result of on this catalog shot, the photograph exhibits a luminous model. Mine is with out, which was typical for the Japanese market because of import restrictions on radioactive materials. Nonetheless, we now have proof of manufacturing facility manufacturing of those uniquely coloured dials.

Different the explanation why this 1601 no-lume lavender dial is my favourite Datejust
A fantastically preserved dial is simply a part of the explanation why this watch is my favourite Datejust. Different elements, similar to the truth that this watch is nearly untouched, enable us to see what the watch would have regarded like virtually 55 years in the past. The case is beautiful with its slim, but sturdy lugs, and the 18K white gold fluted bezel is amazingly crisp. Then there’s the Homosexual Freres-built 6251 Jubilee bracelet. Within the final two years, I nonetheless preserve that it’s probably the most snug bracelet ever created. As soon as once more, this instance is minty and provides us a really feel for what it was prefer to stroll right into a Rolex AD in the course of the 70s and take a look at on a Datejust.

On the wrist, the 36mm seems like a pure extension. It’s mild with out being rattly, and stylish with out wanting stuffy. It’s an superior look ahead to all environments, too. I introduced it to the Keys in Florida, and the pastel dial was excellent for dinners and drinks on the water. With formal put on, the dial shines subsequent to a light-weight blue costume shirt. Better of all, whereas it’s a Datejust, it’s nowhere close to as blingy or nouveau riche-looking because the hordes of contemporary 41mm fashions I see in every single place now.

Parting ideas
For 80 years, the Datejust has stood as a flagship mannequin for Rolex. It launched spectacular improvements, and even fashionable variations remained fairly near the unique fashions in spirit. For my tastes, although, the 16xx sequence strikes the proper steadiness between outdated and new sufficient to hold out every day duties. Certain, the dearth of a fast set date is considerably annoying, but it surely ensures that the watches can be worn. This small niggle can’t overcome the proper steadiness and wearability of the 1601. Including a element, such because the no-lume lavender dial, merely elevates it to best-in-class standing. Nicely, for me at the least…
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