My Take on the Tudor Black Bay Pro Polar, as an Explorer II Fan

Right here, at MONOCHROME, we write about watches. That’s our job. Nonetheless, earlier than that grew to become what we do each day, all of us shared a sheer ardour for watches, with, in fact, our private preferences. Our founder, Frank, is well-known to be a fan of impartial watchmakers and monochromatic watches (clearly…) I, as an example, have a powerful curiosity in timeless sports activities watches – the icons of the business – and chronographs with a classic aptitude. One watch particularly has at all times been one in all my absolute favourites, the Rolex Explorer II, particularly the neo-vintage 5-digit references, and the polar variations. So when Tudor introduced the Black Bay Professional with Opaline dial earlier this yr, which we’ll nickname the Polar BB Professional, my expectations had been excessive. 

Wanting on the gathering group and myself for that matter, the traditional Explorer II – perceive by that what we name youngtimers or neo-vintage watches – appears to be on the rise these days, with robust curiosity from youthful collectors. Specifically, the references 16550 (1985 – 1988) and 16570 (1989 – 2010) with white “polar” dials. It’s a watch I personal and cherish, and it has been used because the illustration for this in-depth article. This, nevertheless, isn’t true for the trendy variations of the Explorer II, particularly the references 216570 (2011 – 2021) and 226570 (as of 2021). That is purely private, however I don’t like these watches. I discover them too giant, too daring. They lack refinement and discretion, because the numerals on the bezel, the palms and the markers are means too giant. And in the event you pay attention a bit to the gang, you’ll hear that many really want for the return of a traditional Explorer II in a thinner, smaller 39-40mm case, with a extra subtly designed dial, and perhaps some retro touches… However Rolex doesn’t give us that. That being mentioned, some just like the 42mm variations of the Explorer II, and this totally superb. To every his personal.

There are lots of the reason why I like the neo-vintage variations of the Explorer II. First, whereas it is a true instrument watch, meant for use and abused, additionally it is a reasonably refined watch with moderately compact dimensions – 40mm x 12mm. I notably love the combination of retro-styled components with the peace-of-mind supplied by fashionable components, such because the strong hyperlinks of the bracelet, the modern-ish motion with true GMT operate and the presence of a sapphire crystal. And if appropriately maintained, it is a watch that has correct water-resistance and a nearly indestructible motion. And sure, the white “polar” dial is the cherry on the cake, the aspect that makes it distinctive within the Rolex lineup, giving it a singular aptitude in comparison with a listing crammed with black dials.

When Tudor, in 2022, launched the Black Bay Professional with a black dial, I used to be very pleasantly stunned. Extra compact than an Explorer II, equally effectively geared up (true GMT, even stronger WR, T-fit micro-adjustment clasp) and with a moderately cool mixture of classic components with fashionable options. The black dial was (too) anticipated, and the vintage-toned palms and markers, nevertheless, didn’t do a lot for me. So when Tudor offered this yr at Watches and Wonders the Opaline model (let’s name it Polar…) of the Black Bay Professional, my expectations had been excessive. A primary have a look at the official photographs already made a powerful impression, solely to be confirmed when dealing with the watch. It seems like Tudor is giving the followers the Explorer II Rolex doesn’t need to give us. And Tudor could be very sincere about it. This Black Bay Professional, black or white, is its model of the watch first designed with mine explorers or speleologists in thoughts – sure, that’s area of interest to the max… However that was the very motive why the Explorer II was created within the first place.

This Tudor Black Bay Professional Polar or Opaline is all concerning the dial. The remaining, actually every part else, is similar to the unique black version of 2022. For higher or worse… As such, we’re a watch that blends traditional Black Bay options with further components of a 24-hour exploration watch. Let’s begin with the case, which retains its 39mm diameter and 47mm lug-to-lug, each dimensions which are shut if not smaller than a 5-digit Explorer II. Nice…? Not fully. As mentioned, a 5-digit Explo II is about 12mm in thickness, and a contemporary 42mm reference 226570 has been measured at 12.5mm – each with out together with the cyclops over the date. I wouldn’t name this skinny, however contemplating the complication and the general robustness of the watch, it’s pretty respectable.

Now, the Black Bay Professional has at all times been blamed for its thickness, measured at 14.6mm. We have now to keep in mind two issues. One, the watch is 200m waterproof. Second, there’s a domed sapphire crystal, which accounts for not less than a millimetre. However above all, it’s not solely the thickness that causes discussions, it’s the precise form of the flanks, that are straight and excessive – and the polished end doesn’t assist both. Widespread to most early editions of the Black Bay, this challenge has been corrected in latest variations – BB 41mm, BB58 – with shorter flanks and extra pronounced “bubble impact” on the caseback. And in the event you evaluate the BB Professional with the BB 58 GMT, you’ll see that Tudor could make a strong GMT watch measuring below 13mm. I assume we’ll have to attend for the subsequent era of Black Bay Professional to ensure that the thickness and form points to be mounted.

That being mentioned, and whereas I can’t argue towards the numbers, another manufacturers don’t do higher. Actually, many are worse on this matter (I see you, Omega…) On the wrist, this interprets right into a watch that has a sure heft and presence, but with consolation. Seen from above, the Black Bay Professional is comparatively compact – not too giant and pretty brief, not less than for a watch of that class. The low centre of gravity, due to a bracelet articulation positioned far down, and the barely domed again additionally assist the watch to remain flat on the wrist.

Design-wise, once more, there’s no evolution between this polar version and the prevailing black mannequin. The case is completed in conventional Tudor vogue, with satin-brushed high surfaces, polished sides and a sophisticated bevel operating from one lug to a different. The crown is a traditional fluted aspect (no extra colored tube, as in early BB watches) and there’s this wonderful mounted chrome steel with a 24-hour scale. That is the place Tudor positive factors factors, with thinly engraved numerals, a radial-brushed floor and a structure that’s near what Rolex used within the classic Explorer II reference 1655. When you evaluate this 24-hour bezel with the one discovered on the trendy reference 226570, you’ll see that there’s an plain magnificence and allure in the way in which Tudor does it. And I don’t actually care concerning the higher distinction and legibility of the one utilized by Rolex.

Let’s speak about the principle aspect of this new Black Bay Professional Polar, the white opaline dial. As a fan of the Polar Explorer II, I can solely applaud the arrival of this color to the gathering. Whereas the dial isn’t similar to what Rolex makes use of – white lacquered dials, with a shiny impact – this opaline dial has its personal allure with a barely grained, barely metallic and matte impact. And because the palms and markers are outlined in black – as they need to, clearly – the watch not solely reads at a look but additionally appears to be like implausible. Sorry, I’m very, very biased right here. The yellow 24-hour hand is just not essentially what I’d have chosen at first (darkish orange would have been my alternative) however it appears to be like the half.

There’s a fashionable facet to this retro-looking watch, with utilized markers manufactured from ceramic blocks, offering a long-lasting luminescent impact. And being a part of the BB assortment, you’ll discover the inevitable Snowflake handset with sq. lollipop seconds and GMT palms. And with the usage of white Tremendous-LumiNova as an alternative of the cream-toned components discovered on the black mannequin, the general watch feels more energizing, extra purposeful, extra technical and (private) extra interesting.

Contained in the Tudor Black Bay Professional Polar is similar motion because the black version and the Black Bay GMT, particularly the Calibre MT5652 made by long-time associate Kenissi. This automated motion is chronometer-certified by COSC (no METAS Grasp Chronometer certification but) and fitted with an anti-magnetic silicon hairspring. Additionally, the variable inertia stability is held in place by a strong transversal bridge. The motion beats at 4Hz and shops as much as 70 hours of energy reserve as soon as absolutely wound by its bidirectional rotor. Relating to the precision, regardless that COSC requirements are between -4 and +6 seconds, Tudor insists on between -2 and +4 seconds’ variation in its operating when watches are fully assembled. A widely known motion, which is fitted with a sensible “true GMT” operate. Its 7.52mm top actually contributes to the general thickness of the watch.

Identical to its black sister, the Black Bay Professional Polar is obtainable on a 3-link rivet-style metal bracelet, closed by a folding clasp with T-fit micro-adjustment (as much as 8mm). A hybrid rubber and cloth strap with metal folding clasp, or a black cloth strap with yellow band, are additionally accessible.

Ideas & Value

What do I take into consideration the Polar BB Professional GMT? Properly, I actually like this watch. It feels to me just like the watch Rolex ought to have in its assortment, as an alternative of its present 42mm Explorer II. It’s good, largely relating to the thickness and the form of the flanks, and Tudor ought to quickly revamp it with the motion discovered within the Black Bay 58 GMT, and thus ship a 12.5mm model. On that, I agree with the gang. That being mentioned, I can reside with the watch as it’s now and I do assume that the look, the dimensions, the polar dial and the record of options supplied are onerous to beat.

Priced at EUR 4,410 on metal bracelet or EUR 4,080 on strap, it’s additionally considerably extra accessible than a brand new Explorer II, priced presently at EUR 10,050. It’s additionally extra accessible than most 40mm white reference 16570 fashions available on the market, as later fashions with SLN dials presently commerce round EUR 7,000. So, in the event you can transcend the status of the identify printed on the dial, I’d say that this Tudor Black Bay Professional Polar is a really critical choice to think about. And this white opaline dial modifications drastically the watch, to the purpose of feeling fully completely different from its black sibling.

For extra particulars, please go to www.tudorwatch.com.