Take a look at our newest merchandise
Time+Tide
The primary week of April has been nothing wanting a horological Christmas come early, with Watches and Wonders – now securely the one most vital watch honest on the planet – happening in Geneva, Switzerland. Naturally, the Time+Tide workforce have been on the bottom to see the business’s most fun releases… However Watches and Wonders wasn’t the one recreation on the town. We additionally noticed smaller exhibitions like Time to Watches and the AHCI’s Masters of Horology, in addition to quite a few different manufacturers exhibit in accommodations just like the Beau-Rivage, their ateliers and past throughout this broader “Geneva Watch Week”.
In brief, it’s been one hell of every week. Now that we’ve all headed again residence and had an opportunity to digest what we noticed and what was launched, we’ve taken it upon ourselves as a workforce to share our favorite watches from this Geneva Watch Week – a few of which you bought a style of in our “Kiss, Marry Kill” video. We’re additionally eager to listen to what your favorite watch of the week was, so get in contact on our socials. Anyway, let’s get into it!
Jamie’s decide: Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135
Final 12 months, I ended up nominating a distinct watch as my favorite of Geneva Watch Week than the watch I mentioned I’d marry in our workforce video. Name it the good thing about hindsight. Nonetheless, I’m sticking to my weapons this 12 months, as my “marry” watch stays my favorite watch of the week, even after getting again to Australia and having a while to replicate. That watch is the Zenith G.F.J., which isn’t only a gorgeous and surprisingly complicated gown watch however a potent celebration of Zenith’s a hundred and sixtieth anniversary.
I don’t suppose I’ve ever had fairly as visceral a response to a watch as I had after I tried the G.F.J. on. Cased in curvaceous platinum, its dial is a murals – combining guilloché, lapis lazuli (stone dials are trending, child!) and dyed mother-of-pearl – however its motion, a contemporary revival of the legendary Calibre 135, is a cracker too. Placing it beneath a 10x loupe in Geneva, it’s completely flawless, from the emblem printing on its dial to the brick-like machining on its bridges, a nod to the distinctive uncovered brick motifs adorning the facade of Zenith’s manufacture in Le Locle. The bracelet is especially baller (and greater than doubles the G.F.J.’s retail value if optioned)… What a triumphant return to decorate watches and métiers d’artwork.
Zach’s decide: Grand Seiko SLGB003 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ice Forest
Admittedly, that is an apparent alternative for me as a well-established Grand Seikophile (and for anybody who watched our Kiss, Marry, Kill video). The SLGB003 Spring Drive U.F.A., with its smaller 37mm dimension and new micro-adjustment clasp, affords every little thing many Grand Seiko followers have lengthy been begging for. The compact case and micro-adjust clasp have been desired for thus lengthy that they virtually utterly outshone the headlining information of this launch – the brand new 9RB2 Extremely High-quality Accuracy Spring Drive motion. With an accuracy ranking of inside 20 seconds per 12 months, it’s the most correct Spring Drive watch available on the market immediately.
It is a watch that ticks the “affords every little thing I want in a single watch” field, and in a 100-metre water resistant titanium case, on an identical bracelet with a brand new micro-adjust system, with an extremely correct motion, if I had zero Grand Seiko watches in my assortment, this might undoubtedly be my first decide. Sadly, with a Snowflake and some different blue dials in my assortment, this blue-tinted silver feels a bit too repetitive for my assortment. Maybe if a extra adventurous dial will get merged with this format I’d soar on it. However the actual purpose why this launch excites me a lot is {that a} smaller Spring Drive motion hints at the potential for different watches utilizing its derivatives, together with a smaller Grand Seiko dive watch.
Buffy’s decide: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Extremely Grand Complication
There could also be a thinness battle unfolding year-on-year ad infinitum (with Bulgari most not too long ago taking one other file), however Vacheron Constantin is out right here breaking a file which will take many years to beat. The Les Cabinotiers Solaria Extremely Grand Complication is now essentially the most sophisticated wristwatch on the planet, however what’s extra spectacular than its 41 problems is its wearability and usefulness. 45mm x 15mm isn’t that small, however when you think about all of its capabilities, it’s downright astonishing. Who else however Vacheron Constantin might make a mechanical watch that allows you to calculate celestial objects’ future positions and have it’s slimmer than most automated chronographs? It’s not only a masterclass of watchmaking, but in addition an thrilling demonstration of the way forward for astronomical problems.
Borna’s decide: Nomos Membership Sport Neomatik Worldtimer
Nomos is a model that not often places a foot improper, however I’ll be utterly trustworthy, their final two main unveilings had me barely anxious. The 31 completely different dials launched at W&W 2024 have been cool, however not that progressive, and the Tangente 2date was simply nonsensical in my thoughts. Fortunately, Watches and Wonders 2025 was a whole 180 and return to kind for the Glashütte watchmaker, bringing precise enchancment to a mannequin that has lengthy languished semi-forgotten.
The brand new Membership Sport Worldtimer took every little thing that was nice concerning the Zürich, however made it higher, with a extra wearable case (40.5mm x 9.9mm x 48mm lug-to-lug), a lot improved calibre, and truthfully one of the crucial nice dial designs I’ve seen for some time. The 2 regular-production variants with their sunburst finishes are good sufficient, however it’s the pastel LEs that actually caught my eye. Whereas Nomos is admittedly focusing much less on its entry-level items, I consider there’s loads of worth available right here, and I believe that speaks volumes, given the extent of competitors at W&W.
Pietro’s decide: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extremely Tourbillon
Sure, I can already see what you, readers, are considering: “It’s simply one other additional skinny Octo Finissimo”. However it’s one thing particular. It doesn’t make any sense in actual life, but it nonetheless exists. Whereas I actually loved all of the earlier iterations, regardless of them being literal technological marvels, I didn’t really feel linked to them. This time, it was completely different – a lot completely different. It was virtually as if holding all of the earlier fashions was the important preparation to understand this one totally.
For individuals who don’t know me already, this isn’t even my type! Normally, I’m going for gown items that look classical. Effectively, that is so far as potential from that concept, however the second I put it on, every little thing simply fell into the suitable place. And after I closed the clasp, with the paper-thin bracelet becoming like I glove, I knew that out of all of the watches I attempted on, the Octo Finissimo Extremely Tourbillon was the one.
Alex’s decide: Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets
Cartier stays one of many uncommon watchmakers able to crafting timepieces that enchant the broader public whereas additionally honoring the extra eclectic creations which have helped form their legendary id. There’s one thing thrilling about seeing a maison as grand as Cartier flip inward, reflecting on their wealthy archives and reintroducing revered items just like the Tank à Guichets: a watch that balances a real classic allure while holding a powerful modern enchantment to the trendy collector. I can’t decide only one variant of the factor ever since seeing Zach evaluation them, although… As an fanatic, fan-appealing releases like these rekindle the romance that first drew me into this world and supply a hopeful glimpse at the way forward for our business from the large manufacturers. Now, in the event that they’d solely deliver again the Tank Basculante, I would simply discover myself weighing up the market worth of considered one of my non-essential organs.
