Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lavender Vs. Grand Seiko Kiri SBGW323

Welcome to a different installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we determined to place the Swiss up towards the Japanese, every with a purple-dial chrome steel watch of their very own. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual with a lavender dial represents the Swiss, whereas the Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 represents the Japanese. Each got here out throughout Watches and Wonders this 12 months, have clear time-only dials, and are available in iconic chrome steel instances. That provides Thomas and Daan sufficient similarities to check them. However there are additionally greater than sufficient variations to name out and formulate a desire for one or the opposite.

As at all times, earlier than we get into our writers’ arguments, let’s shortly recap what occurred in final week’s Sunday Morning Showdown.

Beforehand, on Sunday Morning Showdown…

Final week, it was Oris versus Longines, exterior versus inner bezel, beige versus white dial, and date versus no date. In the long run, the Oris Divers Date collected 53% of the votes, whereas the Longines Legend Diver wasn’t far behind in any respect with 47%. Trying on the feedback, it appears the Oris obtained the good thing about the doubt as a result of it affords extra worth for the cash. At €2,450 for the Divers Date, the Legend Diver simply couldn’t compete with its worth of €3,800. Let’s see what is going to occur when Oris introduces a Calibre 400 model of the watch. Then, the costs will almost certainly be very comparable, and we’ll have a extra even competitors. The costs of this week’s contenders are a bit nearer collectively, so let’s see what is going to occur.

Daan: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender”

That’s proper; the 36mm Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 126000-0013 with a matte lavender dial prices €6,400, and the 36.5mm Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 is available in at €6,000. Worth-wise, then, our contenders aren’t that far aside this week. After all, a Rolex is at all times tougher to get on the checklist worth, and also you may even be capable to get a reduction on the Grand Seiko in in the present day’s market. Nevertheless, for the argument’s sake, let’s preserve these checklist costs in thoughts for in the present day’s battle.

I personal a Rolex Oyster Perpetual. All proper, it’s an Explorer variant, the reference 114270, from 2005. However nonetheless, it’s similar to the lavender model I’m defending in the present day. My Oyster Perpetual is the proper Rolex for me. Its 36mm measurement is so comfy on my 17cm wrist, and the Oyster bracelet is among the greatest bracelets within the enterprise. If I’m unsure precisely what my day holds, however I wish to put on a watch that may do something, I put on this one. And that occurs many days of the 12 months.

A matte lavender dial

The brand new Rolex Oyster Perpetual with a lavender dial could be a bit much less beneath the radar than my black-dial Explorer. Nevertheless, the dial on the brand new OP is matte as a substitute of shiny. So it’s colourful, sure, however modestly so. Due to the baton indexes, straight palms, and the all-steel case and bracelet, it’s an ideal watch to put on with informal apparel. That stated, you may even costume it up by swapping the bracelet for a complicated leather-based strap.

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual is a strong-looking watch with out being too cumbersome or in your face. That additionally depends upon the dimensions you select, after all. Nevertheless, particularly with this lavender dial, it affords the proper steadiness between muscle groups and playfulness. The colour is toned down, someplace in between blue and purple. So, it’s refined and pleasant, identical to the convex, polished bezel on high.

The most effective bracelet, interval

The Oyster bracelet on my 2005 Rolex Explorer has hole heart hyperlinks, and the clasp doesn’t supply on-the-go micro-adjustment. Nonetheless, it’s one of many best-constructed bracelets on the market. I dare say that the up to date model of the Oyster bracelet, with its utterly strong hyperlinks and 5mm toolless Easylink extension, is the most effective bracelet available on the market. It feels extremely strong and completely matches the appears of the Oyster case. For me, it’s the bracelet to beat.

Certain, Grand Seiko is thought for its high-level ending and strong development. Each of these issues are true for the bracelet on the SBGW323 as properly. Nevertheless, there’s no toolless micro-adjustment, and I nonetheless can’t recover from the truth that the bracelet- and case-design departments aren’t speaking to one another. The one matching attribute between the long-lasting 44GS case and the five-row bracelet is the combination of brushed and polished finishes. How nice wouldn’t it be if the bracelet hyperlinks matched the sharp angles on the case? It will make the Kiri look so a lot better. All proper, Thomas, let’s hear it for the SBGW323.

Thomas: Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323

Thanks, Daan! Nicely, this can be a powerful matchup — two very spectacular “easy” time-only watches following very totally different philosophies. It’s fairly fascinating how totally different the lavender Oyster Perpetual and the Kiri are, even when they pursue a really comparable idea.

Let me begin by admitting I discover your arguments very compelling, Daan. I agree that the fashionable Oyster bracelet is second to none in its class. In reality, it outshines virtually any bracelet in any class. That stated, if we take that because the be-all and end-all of watch high quality, Rolex wins any comparability. Equally, we must be cautious to not revert to evaluating specs sheets over all else. Certain, toolless micro-adjustment is good, however we’ve worn watches with out it for many years with out difficulty.

There may be an attention-grabbing distinction between these two watches in that sense. I’d argue that the Rolex feels of upper high quality, whereas the Grand Seiko appears higher-end. The lavender-dial Oyster Perpetual might be machined to the next customary, whereas the Kiri is completed to the next customary. The query, then, is whether or not you worth the look or the texture. In the event you maintain these facet by facet, the Kiri will dazzle you with mild play from its razor-sharp Zaratsu surfaces. The Rolex will wow you with the way it seems like a bit of precision engineering. As a bit of apart, who else would like to see a Rolex completed by Grand Seiko? That may be killer!

The Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 over the Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender”

I can comply with your arguments concerning design, Daan. I agree that the Rolex appears extra cohesive. That stated, we each view these watches by way of Western eyes, whereas solely one in every of them is made within the Western design custom. If you wish to spend your Sunday morning studying a bit of bit extra about design, might I like to recommend this video on Western versus Japanese design philosophy? I’m satisfied you’ll respect the Kiri far more after that.

Nonetheless, there are a number of the reason why I believe the Grand Seiko is the one to get right here. For starters, it’s got the higher dial colour. The Paulownia-inspired tint is lighter and fewer saturated. This makes the distinction between a watch that works with any outfit and one you need to rigorously pair along with your attire. Remember the fact that these are everyday-type watches, so that you need that versatility. I can see the Oyster Perpetual’s lavender dial clashing with blue shirts, for example, however the Kiri’s dial a lot much less so.

Talking of the dials, the Kiri options a lovely texture that makes it far more dynamic. Particularly once you add the Zaratsu-polished markers and handset, you get a watch that may be a pleasure to behold. You can find your self gazing at it in several ambient mild simply to see the way it reacts. You received’t even want lume as a result of the watch will decide up the faintest mild and mirror it. As a Grand Seiko proprietor, I can solely say this can be a pleasure I want upon any watch fanatic.

The extra unique alternative

As a watch fanatic, I really feel the Kiri can be the extra unique alternative. It’s extra of a dialog starter and a extra distinguishing choice. Whereas the lavender-dial Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 may convey that you’re a part of the Rolex in-crowd, the Grand Seiko Kiri says that you’re a distinctive particular person with a style of your personal. What would you quite have your watch say about you?

It additionally helps you could pursue an SBGW323 with out having to grovel. Your Grand Seiko boutique will welcome you and kind you out quite than smirking arrogantly and asking you about your buy historical past. I don’t find out about you, however I do know what I really feel is the extra fascinating luxurious expertise. You even get to maintain a bit of cash in your pocket, sufficient to deal with your vital different to a really fancy dinner whereas rocking your new Grand Seiko.

A extra concerned expertise than the Oyster Perpetual

Lastly, I believe you get extra of an expertise altogether once you decide the Kiri over the lavender-dial Oyster Perpetual. Apart from the mesmerizing dial and case, you get a hand-wound caliber. As it’s possible you’ll know, I’ve a tender spot for manually winding GADA watches. I like the little second of attentive interplay along with your watch within the morning. It seems like a reciprocal course of — I deliver the watch to life, and it’ll serve me all day in return.

Particularly with a caliber as good because the Grand Seiko 9S64, winding is a pleasure. It feels buttery clean with a refined however assured ratchet. And even in case you are a convenience-first kind of watch fanatic, the Grand Seiko works. In any case, you’ll be able to select to not wind it every single day. I don’t know why you wouldn’t, however the 72-hour energy reserve affords ample freedom in that regard.

All in all, I believe the Grand Seiko will really feel extra participating and private. In consequence, I’d decide the Oyster Perpetual in black or darkish blue to make it the proper sling-it-on-and-go versatile GADA watch. In terms of extra particular dial colours, corresponding to mild purple, I’d at all times decide the extra participating Grand Seiko.

Forged your vote

There you’ve gotten it — two very comparable watches that, on the identical time, might hardly be extra totally different. Which might be your decide? Forged your vote and share your motivation within the feedback part under.