Seiko Presage Classic Series Urushi SPB499

Russell Sheldrake

We spend far too lengthy on this job speaking in regards to the historical past and heritage of the Swiss watchmaking business, a lot in order that we will generally overlook that on the opposite facet of the world, in Japan, they too have been making some unimaginable watches for a really very long time. The brand new Seiko Presage Basic Collection Urushi SBP499 attracts direct inspiration from the very first pocket watch Seiko made in 1895, and it does so utilizing a dial-making approach that dates again hundreds of years. Let’s dig into precisely how this watch manages to attain all of that in what, at first look, seems to be a comparatively easy package deal.

The dial

The dial is the primary attraction right here, with its deep black shine and delicate gold printing; there’s a lot to unpack. Initially, let’s take a look at the approach used to create this extremely shiny dial. This impact is created by urushi lacquer, an historical craft that makes use of the sap from the lacquer tree, Toxicodendron vernicifluum,  which has been grown in Japan for hundreds of years. By means of a number of layers of lacquer and sharpening, it’s doable to construct up a dial of this high quality with a excessive degree of shine and an actual depth that ought to be virtually unimaginable to attain at this value level. In fact, this isn’t the primary time Seiko (or its premium Credor or Grand Seiko manufacturers) has used urushi lacquer, and it’s one of many many feathers of their dial-making cap that helps them stand out as a model.

Subsequent, now we have the gilt print, which has been stamped onto this dial, and specifically, the elongated Roman numerals. It’s this fashion of Roman numerals that has been straight impressed by the model’s first pocket watch, often known as the Timekeeper, again when the corporate was referred to as Seikosha. The design of those numerals makes them virtually resemble baton markers, as they’ve elegantly been elongated and compressed. Having these stamped in a matte tone of gold solely provides to the attract of this dial. With the practice observe minute markings and every part else on this dial utilized in a uniform tone, there’s a sense of minimalism about it that permits the lustre of the dial itself to shine by way of.

Sweeping throughout this dial are the centrally mounted hour and minute leaf arms and a particularly tremendous operating seconds hand with a crescent counterweight. Within the sub-dial at 6 o’clock is a 24-hour hand that acts as a day-night indicator, letting you realize if the primary hour hand is studying AM or PM. A sublime complication that does nothing to distract from the straightforward dial, but provides a pleasant additional layer of performance.

The case

Whereas every part about this watch’s dial screams classical, the proportioning of the case forces it right into a extra trendy class. Measuring 40.2mm throughout, 12.1mm thick and 48mm from lug-to-lug, this watch falls outdoors of the classic fashion sizing and into proportions many suppose are perfect for the trendy client. Whereas now we have seen Seiko go smaller in current instances, they usually have even gone smaller with the very same motion, right here they determined to let this watch really feel somewhat extra trendy when on the wrist.

What additionally helps this watch really feel trendy is the water resistance score of 100m, making it way more sensible than many different gown watches in the marketplace. The remainder of this case feels pretty unremarkable; it has straight lugs that stretch a good manner off the case, an open caseback to indicate off the automated motion inside, and a decent-sized, simply usable fluted crown. As with just about all Seiko designs, nothing feels misplaced right here, and every part is serving a practical goal whereas permitting the dial to be the primary attraction.

The motion

Protecting this watch operating is Seiko’s computerized 6R5H calibre: a powerful little motion that manages to maintain 72 hours of energy reserve while operating a typical and a 24-hour indicator hand. It’s a 3Hz variant of Seiko’s long-running 6R line of actions that has confirmed itself time and time once more to be constant and cost-effective for what you’re getting. There is no such thing as a fancy ending to talk of, however you do get a view of the brass rotor and the beating coronary heart of this watch by way of the sapphire caseback.

The strap

Holding this watch collectively is a straightforward black calf leather-based strap with a deployant buckle. What is sweet to find out about this strap is that the leather-based used for it was sourced from a tannery that has been licensed by the Leather-based Working Group (LWG) worldwide organisation as sustainable. However whereas it’s in your wrist, what is actually vital is how the leather-based enhances the deep black of the dial.

The decision

There may be all the time quite a bit to say a few Seiko dial, and when they’re combining an historical Japanese approach with inspiration from the very earliest days of the corporate, there may be much more to speak about. One factor that I’ve all the time admired this model for is making this degree of design and craftsmanship obtainable at such an accessible value level. It’s also fascinating to see that whereas a lot of the business appears to be shrinking their watches, Seiko just isn’t afraid to stay to the extra normal sizing that there’s undoubtedly nonetheless a marketplace for.

Seiko Presage Basic Collection Urushi SPB499 pricing and availability

The Seiko Presage Basic Collection Urushi SBP499 is out there from all Seiko retailers now. Value: US$1,650, £1,500, A$2,600