Some Thoughts about the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P

If you happen to ask your self what’s probably the most traditional costume watch ever made by Patek, and doubtless one of the crucial necessary fashions of the class, the reply ought to finally be the Calatrava. Not a lot to debate right here. The gathering, created in 1932 with the reference 96, has had such an affect on the watch trade that the phrase icon is reliable on this context. However in recent times, there’s been Calatravas and Calatravas… with pilot-inspired watches or weekly calendars. What issues right now is the 96 lineage, the important, timeless Calatrava. Fortunately, the one all of us take into consideration has returned this yr with the launch of the Calatrava 6196P. And right here’s what I give it some thought.

What’s a Patek Philippe Calatrava (the 96 lineage)

After we take into consideration the Calatrava, we should instantly point out the all-important reference 96 by Patek Philippe, the watch that not solely began this assortment but in addition 1. saved Patek again within the days,  2. launched a brand new fashion of case development, 3. was mainly the blueprint for the subsequent 90+ years and has virtually remained unchanged ever since.

Again then, Patek Philippe was going through tough occasions, and brothers Jean and Charles Henri Stern, dial makers (house owners of the Fabrique de Cadrans Stern Frères) and suppliers of Patek, bought a controlling curiosity within the firm to reserve it from chapter. Their answer: a simplified, mainstream mannequin that may broaden the attraction of Patek Philippe timepieces past high-end collectors while nonetheless sustaining the model’s distinctive repute for high quality and excellence in design and manufacturing. The reply was the Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 96, a watch designed in accordance with the Bauhaus precept of kind follows operate – so easy and pure that’s has change into ageless. The fashion was guided by geometric shapes with a simplified and unified design between case and dial, with out thrives.

An necessary factor of the unique Calatrava was its case form and development. Whereas now traditional, the 3-part structure was novel again then, with lugs that had been an integral a part of the case center, quite than being soldered on (normal within the early days of the wristwatch). The spherical bezel was a flat, so-called coin-edge factor, and the case combined a sure industrial look with class and discretion. And the recipe didn’t change a lot, up till the last-known era of the 96 collection, the long-lived 5196, which was discontinued in 2022. Certainly, for the previous three years, there was no such Calatrava within the assortment, regardless that the extremely interesting reference 6119 occupied a few of the spots, however with a Clous de Paris bezel.

Remembering the Calatrava 5196

Earlier than this new Calatrava 6196P, and up till 2022, the position of the traditional costume watch at Patek was given to the reference 5196, with a J, R, G or P subsequent to it for yellow gold, rose gold, white gold – all three with a traditional dial and obus-style hour markers – and platinum, with a completely beautiful two-tone silver dial with Breguet numerals. The 5196 was offered in 2004 and got here with a 37mm case, simply 8mm thick. Extra fashionable in proportions, it was nonetheless as traditional as a Calatrava might be, with its 3-part case with lugs built-in into the case center and its flat stepped bezel.

On the coronary heart of the 5196 was a hand-wound motion, the calibre 215. And there, some issues wanted to be addressed. Initially, this motion was removed from new in conception, relationship again to 1974. Second, it was small, like, actually small, measuring simply 21.9mm in diameter, but with a skinny profile of two.55mm (these dimensions clarify why the 5196 had a stable again). The drawbacks had been an odd place of the small second counter – means too excessive on the dial – and an influence reserve of simply 44 hours. After all, it has been upgraded through the years, and its 4Hz Gyromax steadiness is supplied with a Spiromax hairspring. However, all in all, it wasn’t probably the most fashionable of actions.

That being mentioned, I can’t assist however love the 5196, particularly the platinum model. It’s, regardless of all its flaws, my all-time favorite fashionable Patek Philippe Calatrava. It’s as shut as it could actually get to the unique 96 reference, elegant to a ridiculous level, stuffed with character and charmingly outdated. I’m totally conscious of every part that’s barely off with this watch, and but I completely find it irresistible and nonetheless rank it very excessive on my grail watch wishlist. At some point, perhaps…

The return of the traditional Calatrava with the 6196P

Right here’s a brand new watch within the Patek Philippe Calatrava xx96 collection… And consider me once I say this, it’s massive information. On Patek’s scale, it’s the equal of a brand new Submariner at Rolex or a brand new Speedmaster Moonwatch for Omega. It’s time for probably the most emblematic and timeless watch of the model to enter a brand new era – and I’m assured in saying that the Calatrava is as traditionally necessary because the Nautilus, if no more. And whereas the model targeted most of its communications this yr on the 8-day 5328G, additionally a watch a part of the Calatrava assortment, the arrival of the 6196P marks the model’s return to its most important codes. Which ought to have been below the highlight.

So what are we ? Basically, it’s an evolution of the vary, not a revolution. For the most effective, I ought to say. The brand new Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P is the direct descendant of the 5196 era, itself an evolution of the 3796, 3438, 570 and, after all, the all-important 96. As such, it’s an unmistakably traditional Calatrava, with every part that’s meant to be in it: traditional 3-part case, flat bezel, elongated lugs, hand-wound motion, clear dial. But, the 6196P feels extra fashionable than its predecessors. It’s not solely concerning the motion, it’s additionally about the way it feels on the wrist, the proportions and shapes and a few particulars on the dial. There’s a up to date edge added to the ultra-conservatism of the gathering, and if I’m biased in saying that I beloved the watch, this isn’t a completely unanimous opinion – extra on that once we come to the dial.

So, in 2025, the traditional Calatrava returns in all its glory. A brand new era of xx96 Patek Philippe, with some main modifications below the hood (lastly…) and a few minor updates on the case entrance. Let’s begin with the size: 38mm in diameter, making it 1mm bigger and 9.33mm in thickness, thus an extra 1.33mm in comparison with the previous, long-discontinued mannequin. We’re not speaking about vital modifications right here, and the watch retains the proportions you’d count on from such a traditional costume watch, with all of the class connected to the gathering. However only a bit extra presence on the wrist. Only a bit… Relating to the thickness, I didn’t discover the rise notable, and the watch stays skinny, but it could actually’t actually enter the ultra-thin class anymore. This being mentioned, the development of the case, with a skinny center case, makes this 6196P really feel thinner than the numbers recommend.

On to the design… No surprises. The 6196P remains to be every part you need from a traditional Calatrava, beginning with the center case that integrates these skinny and elongated lugs, topped by a flat, polished coin-edge bezel, itself framed by a flippantly box-shaped sapphire crystal. The case is usually polished, with brushed flanks and being platinum, there’s a brilliant-cut diamond inserted between the lugs at 6 o’clock. For the primary time within the 96 lineage, there’s a sapphire again – and it makes good use of the see-through capability. As for my emotions about this case, it retains the edginess of the traditional Calatrava – pointy lugs, squared edges for the bezel, flat flanks – with a bit extra curves than earlier than… I’ve a tough time discovering precisely why, however it feels a bit softer than a 5196. Perhaps there’s a bit extra curvature on the exterior facet of the lugs, perhaps that’s the impact of the extra pronounced dome of the sapphire.

However what’s extra necessary: it nonetheless seems to be brilliantly elegant on the wrist, with the type of discretion you need in such a watch. The type of watch that solely these within the know will acknowledge as a tasteful and well-thought alternative, a watch with the “if you already know, you already know” impact. I’m speaking concerning the case specifically, because the dial has extra punch than the 5196. That mentioned, the chance of seeing gold evolutions within the close to future is excessive, and we might see extra traditional dial colors. The watch is worn on a strap that, to my style, is the least interesting a part of this Calatrava 6196P. It’s unquestionably properly made, however this shiny, large-scale brown alligator leather-based feels a bit outdated. I’d change it for a flippantly textured calfskin strap in a mid-grey tone. Nicely, to every his personal. It’s closed by a pin buckle and comes with quick-release spring bars, so altering it will likely be simple.

On to the dial… A rose-gilt opaline dial, or in watch-nerd phrases, salmon. A clever alternative for the introduction of a brand new era of Calatrava and a fantastic match with the chilly tone of platinum. The dial has a matte impact (opaline) with a really wonderful grainy floor. It’s not your traditional rose gold-plated sunray-brushed dial, however one thing much more discreet and informal. A color that feels in step with the present tailoring traits, comfortable and pure tones with an earthy contact (the watch nerd in me tells me to cease speaking about this…). However, the bottom of the dial has an interesting color that isn’t new to Patek and remembers the latest Perpetual 5320G, Chronograph 5172G or the in-line calendar 5236P. It even made it to the 5270P Perpetual Calendar.

Look intently in any respect these references and also you’ll see that all of them have in frequent blackened or anthracite-toned markers and arms. The Calatrava 6196P isn’t any exception and comes with anthracite white gold utilized faceted obus-style hour markers and dauphine-style arms. But, since these are the one parts to be discovered on the dial, their presence is quite arduous to overlook. I personally like them. Particularly, as a result of their polished floor ensures that the color isn’t too harsh at sure angles. Frank Geelen, our editor-in-chief, is much less constructive and would have most popular conventional rhodium-plated parts. What’s sure is that in actual life, it’s much less contrasted than the unique press photos steered. I’ve saved the most effective for the top: the place of the small seconds sub-dial. Precisely the place it ought to be, because of a brand new and much bigger motion.

Inside beats the calibre 30-255 PS, which made its debut contained in the Clous de Paris Calatrava 6119 and is a significant improve in comparison with the outdated calibre 215 on all doable ranges. One, because of its massive diameter (31mm), it could actually now be seen by the again, and it properly fills all of the obtainable house. Second, it is a fashionable hand-wound motion with a twin-barrel structure (in parallel) providing a stable 65h energy reserve. Subsequent, it retains the identical 2.55mm skinny profile because the 215 and provides a cease seconds to the equation, subsequent to the now-usual Gyromax steadiness and Spiromax hairspring. Final, it’s a good-looking motion with fantastically formed bridges and an actual sense of class. It’s properly adorned with Geneva stripes, polished bevels and perlage. It’s regulated to -3/+2 seconds/day.

Ideas and value

What to say… I feel this text speaks for itself, and sure, the brand new Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P is an especially interesting watch, all of the extra because it opens the door to a brand new era of Calatrava and a number of evolutions – white gold with silver dial, anybody? The respect of the standard Calatrava look mixed with discreetly fashionable design parts and stable mechanical content material inside makes for a watch with sturdy arguments. This watch is a real Patek Philippe in probably the most conventional means. Elegant, timeless, restrainedly luxurious – not all fashionable Patek watches are born this manner. So sure, I’m extraordinarily constructive about this launch. Up till I noticed the value.

Previously, the traditional Calatrava – perceive the 5196J, R, G or P – was once the entry-level (valuable metallic) mannequin. Not so way back (in 2021), the yellow gold model was priced at slightly below 22,000 euros, and the platinum model was round 35,000 euros. The brand new Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P retails for EUR 46,800, USD 47,135 or CHF 40,000. That’s some huge cash for a time-only watch, even in platinum and even contemplating the brand new motion, even with out debating how lovely it’s. Now, understanding {that a} Calatrava 6119R or G with the identical motion inside and a barely extra advanced case presently retails for 33,700 euros, we are able to absolutely count on the doable future gold 6196J or 6196G to be round 32,000 euros. Nonetheless not accessible, however that’s what now we have to take care of now. For extra particulars, please seek the advice of patek.com.