Based in 2016 within the Swiss Jura by Sébastien Muller, a fourth-generation watchmaker, Brellum is an unbiased model identified for its direct-to-consumer mannequin and restricted annual manufacturing of not more than 299 COSC-certified chronometers. The model debuted with the Duobox assortment, recognised for its basic design, accessible pricing, and restricted editions, together with fashions that includes a full calendar chronograph. Final 12 months, Brellum expanded the gathering with the Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase LE Chronometer, a stainless-steel timepiece with a silver-toned dial, an evolution of the sooner Traditional Chronometer, providing the identical capabilities. Now, Brellum enhances the provide with a fascinating salmon-coloured dial and a alternative between stainless-steel or light-weight titanium circumstances, elevating this refined timepiece’s aesthetic and attraction.

The newest model of the Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase LE Chronometer arrives in a alternative of stainless-steel (90 grams) or titanium with a metal bezel (72 grams), waterproof to 100 meters. The case with alternating brushed and polished surfaces measures 41.8mm in diameter and 11.7mm thick, excluding the domed sapphire crystals on each side. With these box-style crystals included, the full top comes to fifteen.9mm. At 3 o’clock, a big knurled crown engraved with the Brellum brand is flanked by the 2 polished piston-style chronograph pushers.

The opaline salmon-coloured dial units this version aside, completed with a delicate sunburst impact. Utilized metal Roman numeral hour markers add depth to a multi-level design, whereas triangular indices on the cardinal factors cleverly liberate dial house, stopping visible muddle. Across the edge, a date observe and minutes/seconds scale are neatly built-in. At 12 o’clock, the 30-minute chronograph counter additionally homes the day and month home windows. The moon section show is nestled inside the 12-hour chronograph subdial at 6 o’clock, whereas operating seconds are proven at 9 o’clock, full with a day-night indicator.

The diamond-cut hour and minute arms are handled with Tremendous-LumiNova for higher low-light visibility. All arms are completed in silver tone, aside from the blued central chronograph hand and the day-night pointer, including a pleasant distinction.

The watch is powered by the automated Brellum Calibre BR-751, primarily based on the Valjoux 7751, a full-calendar evolution of the basic 7750. This COSC-certified motion incorporates a Glucydur stability, Anachron hairspring, and beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour, delivering a 46-hour energy reserve. Ending touches embrace perlage, Geneva stripes, heat-blued screws, and Brellum’s signature 4N gold-coated “moon-inspired” rotor.

The watch is paired with a home made black leather-based strap and comes with a stainless-steel or titanium deployant clasp, matching the case materials. Restricted to 33 items, the salmon Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase LE Chronometer is priced at CHF 3,690 in metal and CHF 3,890 in titanium (incl. taxes). Pre-orders are open now, with deliveries beginning on the finish of April. For additional particulars, go to brellum.swiss. 

Brellum releases many small runs of watches throughout any given 12 months, so I used to be shocked to seek out that it’s been almost six months since our final evaluate. Now we’re again with a have a look at the brand new Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase LE Chronometer. Sure, that’s a mouthful, however the welcome information is that the watch now has a salmon dial. Plus, it’s obtainable in a alternative of case supplies.

Final 12 months, we reviewed the brand new Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase. At the moment, the watch debuted with a silver dial and was restricted to 46 items. The newest launch sports activities a modern salmon dial. It’s additionally on pattern with the choice of a titanium case. Let’s take a better look.

The newest Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase

The most recent Brellum introduction sports activities a well-known 41.8mm by 51.8mm case with a 15.9mm thickness/ Patrons can have the choice of a stainless-steel or titanium case and matching clasp. People with bigger wrists can rejoice that this piece bucks the present pattern of smaller watches. Regardless of this Duobox’s dressy appears to be like and a number of problems, the model achieves a 100m depth score. That’s a bonus when bigger manufacturers wrestle to have their chronographs attain rankings above 50. The strap is handmade with an alligator sample and a signed deployant clasp.

An opaline salmon dial

A part of the large information surrounding the newest Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase is a brand new opaline salmon dial. This tone has grow to be more and more widespread throughout a number of watch manufacturers and appears particularly good on difficult watch dials. Certainly, the combination of polished steel parts, such because the indexes, brand, and arms, works properly with the dial. The very best contrasting particulars, although, have to be the blue central chronograph hand and moonphase show. In comparison with final 12 months’s silver mannequin, this one appears to be like hotter and smaller due to the colour decisions. It additionally permits the entire particulars to face on their very own. Different particulars embody Tremendous-LumiNova on the principle arms and two small pips on the prime of the dial.

Some might decry the sheer quantity of knowledge on the dial of the Triple Calendar Moonphase, however the mannequin’s title is a not-so-subtle trace that this isn’t a easy time-only watch. The higher register incorporates a 30-minute counter with home windows for the month and day of the week. The decrease register exhibits the moonphase indicator and homes a 12-hour counter. Then, the left register exhibits operating seconds with a sophisticated hand, and an underlying blue hand signifies day or evening. Lastly, the middle exhibits hour and minute arms, the chronograph seconds, and a date pointer.

The COSC-certified Brellum BR-751

The Triple Calendar Moonphase makes use of the model’s automated BR-751 caliber, which makes use of the chronometer-certified Valjoux 7751 as a base. The slight modification is using a skeletonized bespoke 4N-gold-coated and numbered oscillating rotor. Whereas the motion might not qualify as unique, it’s a beautiful sight througa the case again’s domed sapphire crystal. Spec-wise, the automated caliber has a frequency of 28,800vph and 46 hours of energy reserve. Perlage, Geneva stripes, and blued screws are a part of the package deal.

Excellent news for these with medium to giant wrists

With right this moment’s shift to smaller diameters, the 41.8mm Triple Calendar Moonphase might strike some as passé or out of contact. Nonetheless, our readers continually remind us that there’s an enormous (actually) marketplace for bigger watches. This Brellum might not work properly on my wrist, however watch manufacturers should proceed to provide items to suit totally different market segments.

The Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase — pricing and availability

The opposite purpose why providing a bigger watch is smart is that Brellum creates very small batches. Simply 33 of those watches will likely be made, and that features a mixture of stainless-steel and titanium fashions. In different phrases, the precise quantity of every is unknown till the orders roll in, however solely 33 will likely be made with a salmon dial. The metal possibility has a retail value of CHF 3,690, which is similar value as final 12 months’s silver-dial mannequin. Titanium brings a slight improve and involves CHF 3,890.

We’ve at all times been impressed by the end of those watches, and patrons have reported an ideal customer support expertise. What are your ideas on Brellum and this latest launch? As at all times, we encourage you to share your opinion within the feedback part beneath.

Watch specs

Jamie Weiss

Yearly, it appears there’s a brand new pattern in dial colors that takes the business by storm. In 2021 it was blue, in 2022 it was inexperienced, and in 2023 it gave the impression to be rainbows… However among the many fleeting enthusiasm and the short-lived tendencies, one color has lingered to develop into a staple of the diehard watch-collecting group – specifically salmon. There’s simply one thing about this pinky tone that screams class. Now, I’m extra of a barramundi kinda man, however on this case, I’ll make an exception to convey you my listing of the very best salmon dial watches in no explicit order. Order up!

Baltic MR01 Salmon

Baltic salmon will be discovered within the seas round Lapland and Iceland, however you’ll be able to catch a Baltic MR01 Salmon within the Time+Tide Store. An reasonably priced mechanical entry level into the world of salmon dial watches, its Artwork Deco aesthetic pairs with the old-school vibe of a salmon dial completely, with an offset small seconds and Breguet numerals giving it a jaunty edge. It’s powered by a Hangzhou micro-rotor motion and measures up at an approachable 36mm. Worth: €545 (~US$600), from the Time+Tide Store

Fears Brunswick

The Brunswick from UK-based model Fears is one other salmon-dialled choice that received’t have you ever promoting kidneys and can also be out there within the Time+Tide Store. With a dial galvanically coated in rose gold and copper, it has a wealthy salmon color and a vertically brushed end that’s utilized by hand. Including to its clear design, we’ve a small seconds at 6 o’clock that has stunning round graining. The design as a complete is a throwback to early Fears watches from the ’40s and ’50s, cased in a chic cushion form. It’s classic, elegant and the proper pairing to the candy salmon color of the dial. Beneath the hood is the ETA 7001, a motion that has been in use for years. It’s not a lot to put in writing dwelling about aesthetically, therefore using a closed caseback, but it surely will get the job achieved and makes for a dependable each day wearer. Worth: US$3,895 (on a leather-based strap), US$4,390 (on a stainless-steel bracelet), from the Time+Tide Store

IWC Portugieser 40

This yr, IWC unveiled a bunch of scrumptious new dial colors within the Portugieser assortment, together with horizon blue, sand gold and onyx… However this salmon-dialled Portugieser 40 stays a powerful contender for the prettiest (and maybe most underrated) costume watch within the Schaffhausen model’s secure. That includes a wealthy sunburst salmon complemented by comparatively minimalist Arabics, this timepiece affords expanses of salmon tones. Worth: US$7,450

Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42

Think about for a minute, if you’ll. You’re a younger skilled. You’ve simply obtained your first pay cheque, and, being an avid reader of Time+Tide, you need to blow all of it on a pleasant watch. One thing particular, maybe. After seeing somebody on Instagram carrying a Patek Philippe 5172G, you say to your self: “that’s the one!”, and promptly head to your native AD, solely to be advised that you just’ll most likely by no means be supplied one. At first, you’re dissatisfied, however as you exit the boutique, you see a beautiful little Breitling out of the nook of your eye. “Is that this out there?”, you whisper to the gross sales affiliate, relieved on the sight of his nodding head. Though the Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph bears a putting resemblance to the aforementioned Patek, it completely stands by itself. With its in-house motion, considerate date execution and delightful salmon dial, it’s a winner in my books. Worth: US$9,350

Chopard L.U.C 1860

Launched at Watches & Wonders 2023, the Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a devoted replica of the first-ever L.U.C watch from 1996. Though the true focus of this watch is the motion, the L.U.C 96.40-L, Chopard has knocked it out of the park with the dial. It’s constructed from gold, completed with a handmade guilloché and made salmon through a galvanic therapy. What a stunner! At 36.5mm, it’s the proper measurement for a costume watch – inform me this wouldn’t look superb with a tuxedo. It’s additionally constructed from Chopard’s Lucent Metal, {a partially} recycled alloy that’s 50% tougher than its 316L counterparts. Worth: US$23,200

Grönefeld 1941 Principia

Let’s transfer up the dimensions (pun totally meant) with the Grönefeld 1941 Principia Automated Salmon Dial. In true haute horlogerie trend, this salmon dial magnificence has all of the hallmarks we’ve come to like from the Horological Brothers. Ridiculous motion ending, intricate case design, unique straps (howdy buffalo), and a spotlight to element that places most to disgrace. At 39.5mm, in both white gold, pink gold or chrome steel, this can be a look ahead to the marginally flamboyant and deep-pocketed watch collector. As an apart, go and take a look at the Grönefeld web site; they go into wonderful element on their specs web page. Right here’s what they are saying in regards to the winding system of the calibre G-06: “for twenty-four hours of autonomy, 633 rotations of the oscillating mass are required”. Basic. Worth: ranging from €36,900 (~US$40,000)

Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 6196P

One in every of Patek Philippe’s spotlight releases from Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, the ref. 6196P is a scrumptious salmon tackle probably the most archetypal costume watch of all time. Formally, Patek describes this dial as “opaline rose-gilt”, electing to pair this matte salmon quantity with surprisingly modern anthracite white gold indices for a high-contrast look. The richness of the salmon is complemented by a cheeky little diamond set into its platinum case at 6 o’clock – an uncharacteristically playful contact from probably the most sober of manufacturers. Worth: US$47,130

Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit

Wish to actually splash out on a salmon dial watch? (Sorry, I can’t assist it with the puns.) Then, look no additional than this Laurent Ferrier. It’s virtually the proper mix of conventional and trendy: its built-in bracelet and motorsports-inspired design give it a contemporary (or at the least mid-century) aptitude, however the truth that it’s acquired a tourbillon motion that doesn’t present through the dial aspect is a very old-school contact… And one of many largest delicate flexes in trendy horology, which significantly blew the thoughts of our artistic director Marcus when he acquired hands-on with it. The smoked salmon dial is simply the icing on the cake. Worth: US$202,000

Honourable point out: Studio Underd0g Collection 03 Salm0n

Strictly talking, Studio Underd0g’s Salm0n isn’t a salmon-dialled watch, though it does have a salmon-coloured chapter ring and chronograph subdial! However we needed to embrace it as a result of, effectively, it’s actually a salmon dial – with a mottled gray centre that resembles salmon pores and skin. It’s the type of characteristically cheeky contact we’ve come to anticipate from this design-focused model, however the Collection 03 Salm0n can also be one of many British model’s most horologically credible watches but, because of its use of a Sellita monopusher chronograph motion. As of publishing, this watch is presently bought out, however there are more likely to be extra drops sooner or later, so keep tuned. Worth: US$2,000, completely in-store on the Time+Tide Store

The title Tank at Cartier means way over only a watch… It’s a complete vary of watches, all distinguished by some design components first outlined by the so-called Tank Normale of 1917. From there, the gathering expanded to dozens of designs, such because the Tank Louis Cartier, the Cintrée, the Française and the Asymétrique, simply to call a couple of. In 2023, Cartier relaunched the Tank Américaine, a Tank watch with an elongated and curved rectangular case, first launched in 1989. The return was made with ultra-classic variations in metal or gold, with white dials. However some months in the past, with out making a lot noise about it, the model unveiled a pair of treasured variations with Artwork-Deco sector dials, together with this good-looking platinum-salmon model. 

The Tank Américaine may not be the preferred mannequin within the model’s assortment – the Louis Cartier holds the title. It’s additionally a watch that may, in a method, simply be confused with the Tank Cintrée. However it shouldn’t. Regardless of having a basic Twenties-30s look, the Tank Américaine – which has been explored intimately right here – is a reasonably current creation, first made in 1989. The design is modelled after that of the Tank Cintrée, albeit with bolder dimensions, bigger brancards on the edges and a much less curved general profile. The Américaine is thicker and wider than its inspiration, and although the design has been tweaked through the years, it remained largely unchanged – even after the 2023 replace. The refreshed automated model is a bit smaller than earlier than, leaner and fewer curved. The dials had been additionally streamlined with a finely brushed background changing the stamped guilloche sample of the older variations. However importantly, the big mechanical mannequin was not hand-wound however automated as an alternative.

Quick ahead to some months in the past, once we had been launched to a brand new model of the Cartier Tank Américaine LM, with out understanding a lot in regards to the watch aside from what I had in my arms… a platinum model with a completely attractive Artwork Deco, sector-styled salmon dial… Properly, now that was one thing that speaks to me, being a fan of salmon and sector dials – have a look at this, you’ll perceive… Now we all know every little thing about it, and I needed to shortly introduce the watch and provides my tackle it.

In essence, this new model (in addition to its yellow gold with anthracite dial sister, reference WGTA0295) is nothing greater than a dial and materials animation primarily based on the 2023 refreshed Cartier Tank Américaine LM Computerized. In all equity, and whereas I can have some love for some Tank fashions (often the shorter or extra uncommon fashions), the redesigned Américaine left me chilly – so did the outdated mannequin anyway. Perhaps it’s the lengthy case, the marginally bulbous flanks, the reasonably sterile dial of the basic model, or very probably the mix of all three, but it surely didn’t go away me with an important impression. I don’t have something in opposition to it, however I don’t have something particular for it both.

Issues modified after I considered this new Artwork Deco salmon dial… I’ve stated it on a number of events however a special dial color or structure can drastically change the enchantment of a watch. This platinum Américaine is the proper instance of such a metamorphosis. As stated, technically talking, we’re wanting on the similar watch as earlier than. This implies a slim 24.4mm case with a tall(ish) measurement of 44.4mm – it’s not notably lengthy on paper, but it surely feels elongated even on the wrist. Don’t be fooled by the size, it has a extra stable wrist presence than anticipated.

What’s completely different listed below are two issues. One, the case is fabricated from 950 platinum, including some weight to the watch – a sure sense of luxurious for some collectors – whereas not making it luxurious taking a look at first… That’s one thing I like about platinum, a type of “if , ” enchantment. The one clue that the watch is fabricated from treasured steel is the pink ruby cabochon on the crown, a trademark of platinum watches at Cartier. As with all Américaine, the brancards on the facet are rounded and polished, the edges are brushed, and the connecting half between the lugs can also be vertically brushed. At 8.6mm in thickness, it’s additionally a reasonably slim watch that can actually work in a sartorial atmosphere, whereas the stable caseback is acceptable on this context.

However then, there’s the dial. And it’s the place this version marks probably the most factors. A drastic evolution in comparison with the basic silvery-white, brushed dial of the basic model, this one opts for an Artwork-Deco, extremely geometric and completely matches the form of the case. And to make it even higher, there’s this wealthy, two-tone salmon color that distinction so effectively with the chilly metallic really feel of the platinum case.

The dial has a number of finishes and sectors, because it ought to. The central half is freed from all frills, solely displaying the Cartier signature over a matte floor. Then, there’s an oblong hour chapter ring with a radial-brushed end and a succession of Roman numerals and markers, all linked to the outlines – making it extremely graphic and, largely, it does create a coherent really feel with the form of the dial opening. Lastly, the outer part additionally has a matte end with a railroad minute monitor. As soon as once more, I believe this works a lot better than the oval-styled minute monitor of the usual mannequin. As well as, it’s additionally extra related to place the minute monitor on the periphery, the minute hand being longer than the hour hand. Traditional Cartier sword arms in blued metal point out the hours and minutes.

Contained in the case is the pretty new Calibre 1899 MC, a small automated motion beating at 4Hz and delivering a ample 40-hour energy reserve. As usually with Cartier watches, the motion isn’t precisely probably the most engaging half, but it surely does the job. The watch is worn on a burgundy alligator strap with a white gold (not platinum) folding clasp.

There’s no denying that this watch is good-looking. Its dial appears extremely good over the platinum case, and the general feeling is elegant and barely quirky, but it performs on basic watchmaking vibes. I nonetheless assume that the Tank Américaine lacks a little bit of the refined class of the Tank Cintrée, however the latter is simply out there with openworked actions or in restricted editions – such because the 2023 Tank Cintrée Réédition in platinum – and at the next value vary. This Artwork-Deco Américaine is thus an important various that’s simpler to accumulate, and it does add an important sense of favor with its sector salmon dial. Out there now from Cartier boutiques at EUR 25,600 or USD 23,400. Simply word that these will not be restricted editions however restricted manufacturing fashions that gained’t keep indefinitely within the catalogue. Extra particulars at www.cartier.com.