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After I was requested to compile my listing of favourite Watches and Wonders 2025 releases, the Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Metal Rose was the primary that sprang to thoughts. So, after I acquired the chance to spend some respectable time with it, I jumped on it. I spent a few days with this magnificence on the wrist; that is how we acquired alongside.
The Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Metal Rose prices CHF 17,900. The model has produced solely 25 of those. A gray-dial model, additionally restricted to 25 items, and a yellow gold mannequin, restricted to fifteen, got here out alongside this one.
The Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Metal Rose’s specs
The Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Metal Rose piqued my curiosity as quickly as I examine its 37mm diameter. It’s atypical for retro chronographs like this to be executed in vintage-correct sizes. The chrome steel case has a mere 9.25mm thickness. Angelus pairs these modest dimensions with a comparatively outsized 44mm lug-to-lug, offering the watch with some better prominence on the wrist. We discover a box-style sapphire crystal up prime and a sapphire window within the case again. Angelus charges the watch’s water resistance at 30 meters.
Inside ticks caliber A5000. This monopusher chronograph motion is produced by La Joux-Perret, however it’s far out of your common ébauche chronograph motion. For starters, this one has a lithe 4.2mm profile. Simply as importantly, it appears nice, which is uncommon in a world dominated by spartan Valjoux 7750 derivatives. The hand-wound caliber runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour and has a 42-hour autonomy.
The motion options outstanding Côtes de Genève ending and a two-tone colorway of metal and yellow gold. All in all, the caliber doesn’t come throughout as an ébauche. Angelus has a protracted historical past of manufacturing in-house monopusher calibers, courting again to 1925. Whereas this A5000 breaks with that custom, in fact, it isn’t precisely noticeable.
The Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Metal Rose’s dial
The star of the present right here, nonetheless, is the dial. Angelus refers to it as a rose-bronze domed dial. I might name it salmon. It options concentrically engraved sub-dials inside a grained fundamental dial, and the outermost fringe of the dial shows round brushing. Though three finishes on a single dial seems like loads, the composition doesn’t seem excessive. The truth is, you don’t consciously register it, which is nice. What you do register is that the dial is continually altering with the sunshine, all the time providing one thing completely different.
Angelus plates the utilized indexes with black rhodium. The ensuing laborious distinction ensures legibility and a really clear, cohesive general aesthetic.
I’ve to provide additional credit score for the typography. The Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Metal Rose honors classic watches’ typography traditions. The sort options all of the hallmarks of classic dial printing, such because the flat-topped 4 and A, hooked 7, and open 6 and 9. The attribute sharp serifs to stop ink pull-up are additionally current. All in all, it appears like a classic dial in each approach aside from the very trendy crispness of its execution. I additionally give Angelus bonus factors for the shortage of ugly digital distortion of the fonts.
Sporting the Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Metal Rose
Instantly upon strapping the Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Metal Rose to my wrist, I knew I used to be proper to choose it as a W&W favourite. It in some way combines the perfect of classic and trendy watchmaking. I’m not used to classic watches offering the sharpness, crispness, and solidity I felt right here. In the meantime, a chronograph on this measurement is definitely uncommon in right now’s market.
The principle cause for that’s the lack of accessible calibers. The most typical reasonably priced chronograph actions, based mostly on the Valjoux 7750, measure over 7mm thick. Due to this fact, you must go high-end to search out one thing subtler to be used in a watch of those proportions. Sadly, most higher-end manufacturers are likely to make massive chronographs with quite a lot of visible affect. To me, nonetheless, that is what a contemporary Holy Trinity chronograph ought to really feel like. Kudos, Angelus! Spot on!
The lengthy lugs completely curve to the contour of my wrist. They supply a stronger presence, preserving the watch from wanting dainty with out sacrificing classic attraction. At lower than 10mm thick, the Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Metal Rose slides underneath the cuff with out concern. The very supple nubuck strap completes a supremely comfy bundle.
Seems are subjective, or are they?
This watch jogs my memory of cilantro. Because it seems, a genetic variation determines folks’s response to aldehydes, which comprise a lot of the herb’s aromas. You both adore it otherwise you don’t. I can solely think about the Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Metal Rose will break up audiences in an identical method. Why? Nicely, due to the sub-dials’ placement.
I think you both love the classic look otherwise you see it as cross-eyed. I’m firmly within the former class. To me, the 2 sub-dials hunched into the middle of the dial add a ton of attraction. It has a slight awkward dissonance to it, which serves to make it extra stunning.
The spacing is the results of the La Joux-Perret base caliber’s structure. The sub-dial pinions sit 5.5mm left and proper of the central hand stack. Angelus makes essentially the most of it through the use of the ensuing house on the skin of the dial for clearly legible telemeter and minute scales. These can be way more crammed in a wider-eyed chronograph structure.
Closing ideas
All in all, you’ll be able to in all probability inform that I’m deeply infatuated with the Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Metal Rose. Its proportions, modern case, stunning dial, typography, and good-looking motion all hit the spot. My solely gripe is that I’ll seemingly by no means see one once more. Resulting from its CHF 17,900 worth and restrict of simply 25 items, I’m extraordinarily unlikely to ever personal one and even run into somebody sporting one. And that, my beautiful Fratelli, is a serious pity.
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