Try our newest merchandise
Jamie Weiss
It’s truthful to say that Grand Seiko is the watch geek’s watch model, however because the model has grown and expanded internationally through the years, an increasing number of persons are discovering the distinct nature of what this particular Japanese model has to supply (pun totally meant). From vibrant and textural dial finishes to Zaratsu ending and distinctive actions corresponding to their famed Spring Drive calibres, their oeuvre is expansive, to say the least. This is the reason it’s so laborious to pin down what I’m about to do… So, on the danger of offending the numerous diehards on the market, I’ve assembled what we imagine are 15 of the very best Grand Seiko references of the trendy period, in no explicit order.
#2: Grand Seiko SBGA211 “Snowflake”
Let’s begin with the watch that put Grand Seiko on the map internationally. A darling amongst watch collectors the world over, the SBGA211 “Snowflake” will get its identify from its delicately adorned dial, which resembles freshly fallen snow. It’s additionally extremely exact due to its clean, sweeping Spring Drive motion, which pairs the “soul” of a mechanical watch with the accuracy of quartz.
Why it issues: The quintessential Spring Drive watch, the SBGA211 “Snowflake” is a cult favorite and bona fide trendy icon for a purpose. Its profitable mixture of an exquisite nature-inspired dial and its Spring Drive motion helped the broader watch-buying public cotton on to what makes Grand Seiko so distinctive. It embodies every little thing that makes Grand Seiko completely different and particular to observe geeks. Its Excessive-Depth Titanium case can also be typical of Grand Seiko, with its mixture of brushed and Zaratsu-polished surfaces. Worth: A$9,900
#2: Grand Seiko SLGH005 “White Birch”
Rivalling the Snowflake as probably the most recognisable Grand Seiko mannequin, we have now the SLGH005 “White Birch”. The winner of the 2021 GPHG Males’s Watch Prize in addition to the Pink Dot Design Awards ‘Better of the Finest’ in 2022, its dial is evocative of the white birch tree forests that encompass the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, the place all 9S mechanical Grand Seiko watches are manufactured and assembled.
Why it issues: The White Birch isn’t simply one of the vital acclaimed watches Grand Seiko has ever produced, however one of the vital acclaimed Japanese watches, interval. It additionally adroitly demonstrates one in all Grand Seiko’s calling playing cards: extremely detailed dial textures. It’s additionally important in that it was the primary metal manufacturing mannequin to utilise the 9SA5 calibre – the top of 9S calibre design, which boasts a ground-breaking twin impulse escapement and an 80-hour energy reserve. Worth: A$14,000
#3: Grand Seiko SLGT003 “Kodo” Fixed Pressure Tourbillon
Named after the Japanese phrase for ‘heartbeat’, the SLGT003 “Kodo” Fixed-Pressure Tourbillon is probably the most visually dramatic (and technically spectacular) watch in Grand Seiko’s repertoire and spent virtually a decade in improvement. The primary watch in historical past to mix a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism as one unit on a single axis, its openworked building and the musical high quality of its constant-force carriage’s rotation make this watch a sight to behold.
Why it issues: Merely put, that is Grand Seiko’s first mechanical complication and first excessive complication, so it’s extremely important. Its in-house calibre 9ST1, an evolution of the spectacular T0 idea calibre, has set new requirements for accuracy for the already uncompromising model, all whereas introducing a horological world first. It’s additionally important because it’s the primary watch to emerge from Grand Seiko’s new Atelier Ginza studio, the smallest of Grand Seiko’s manufacturing amenities that can focus virtually totally on mechanical problems – it’s set the stage for an ongoing legacy of excessive complication masterpieces. Worth: A$550,000
#4: Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph
It wasn’t till 2007 that Grand Seiko first launched a chronograph into the gathering, and it took one other 16 years for them to unveil their first mechanical chronograph – nevertheless it was properly definitely worth the wait. The SLGC001 Tentagraph’s identify refers to how its 9SC5 motion options TEN beats per second, has a Three-day energy reserve, and the way it’s an Computerized chronoGRAPH. The actually spectacular factor about that energy reserve is that it’s inclusive of the chronograph repeatedly working… Nice if you happen to love to depart your chrono working all day.
Why it issues: Grand Seiko is thought for its considerably restrained, conservative aesthetic however the Tentagraph reveals they’re greater than able to making a conventionally good-looking sports activities watch. It completely epitomises Grand Seiko’s present Evolution 9 design language, too, with its angular type issue that blends ergonomics with boatloads of favor. Worth: A$21,000
#5: Grand Seiko SBGA413 “Shunbun”
A contemporary re-interpretation of the celebrated 62GS from 1967, the SBGA413 “Shunbun” (typically additionally known as the “Cherry Blossom”) is impressed by an overwhelmingly Japanese seasonal expertise referred to as hana-ikada – the second quickly after the spring equinox (shunbun in Japanese, therefore the moniker) when cherry blossom petals scattered by the wind cowl the floor of a river. Its subtly textured pale pink dial is in contrast to some other in high-end watchmaking.
Why it issues: Initially a US market unique, the Shunbun grew to become such a fan favorite that Grand Seiko launched it to the vary worldwide… Which ought to go some strategy to explaining simply how well-liked and important this watch is. Just like the Snowflake, it additionally epitomises lots of the issues that make Grand Seiko so particular: a Excessive-Depth Titanium case with Zaratsu sharpening, a pleasant dial texture in a novel color impressed by nature, and a Spring Drive motion. It’s additionally been influential in getting males to understand pink in luxurious watches, in addition to serving to kickstart the broader development in direction of pastels and lighter dial colors we’re seeing within the watch business proper now. Worth: A$10,300
#6: Grand Seiko SBGY007 “Omiwatari”
Impressed by the waters of Lake Suwa to the southeast of the Shinshu Watch Studio, the place all Spring Drive watches are made, the SBGY007 is a classically good-looking, restrained piece. A manual-winding, time-only Spring Drive costume watch, it options an extremely gentle blue dial impressed by a phenomenon the place Lake Suwa freezes over and an extended ridge seems within the ice from one aspect of the lake to the opposite, which custom holds is the Omiwatari – or a bridge the place the Shinto gods stroll out over the ice.
Why it issues: As our editor Zach has famous, a variety of Grand Seiko followers have famous that whereas they suppose the Snowflake is fabulous, they’d reasonably if it got here in a time-only configuration, sans energy reserve indicator. Whereas it isn’t precisely a Snowflake dial, the SBGY007 scratches that itch. It’s additionally arguably probably the most fascinating Grand Seiko costume watch: that gentle blue dial is a masterstroke in subtlety. Worth: A$12,600
#6: Grand Seiko SBGH255
An uncompromisingly critical dive watch, the SBGH255 is the largest watch Grand Seiko produces, weighing in at a sturdy 46.9mm in diameter. Designed to face up to pressures encountered in saturation diving right down to a depth of 600 metres (with out a helium-escape valve, thoughts you) and that includes a dial manufactured from pure iron so as to shield the motion from the dangerous results of magnetism, this large daddy piece ain’t messing round.
Why it issues: Father or mother firm Seiko is well-known for its professional-grade dive watches, and whereas Grand Seiko has lengthy produced its personal dive watches, that is the very first professional-grade dive watch to bear the GS moniker. It’s a barely incongruous but masculine piece that demonstrates that distinctive finishes, top-grade actions, and extraordinary dials needn’t be reserved for less than the floor. That is the last word expression of a Seiko dive watch. Worth: A$14,950
#8: Grand Seiko SBGP017
An exemplary instance of Grand Seiko’s quartz choices, the SBGP017 is powered by the Calibre 9F, which is proudly on show behind a sapphire crystal caseback. That is no run-of-the-mill quartz motion or watch: totally hand-assembled by two professional craftsmen, the Calibre 9F within the SBGV238 is sweet for a minimum of ±5 seconds per 12 months; accuracy made doable by the choice of in-house-made quartz crystals which can be first “aged” for 3 months, with solely the very best chosen to be used within the calibre. The star on the scrumptious gentle blue cloud-textured dial at 6 o’clock denotes its high-accuracy quartz motion.
Why it issues: Whereas many luxurious watchmakers don’t like to point out off their quartz actions, Grand Seiko’s Calibre 9F treats quartz with the respect it deserves – a mirrored image of Seiko’s legacy in introducing the world to quartz watches. Superbly completed and impressively correct, the Calibre 9F dispels the notion that quartz is one thing to be ashamed of. Fairly the other, really. Merely put, the SBGP017 is the best Calibre 9F: the star on the dial and the blued GS emblem, in addition to the characteristically beautiful dial, mark it out as one thing particular. Worth: A$5,995
#9: Grand Seiko SLGB003 “Ice Forest U.F.A.”
If we’re speaking about high-accuracy actions, although, we have now to speak concerning the new SLGB003, which debuts the Calibre 9RB2 Spring Drive motion and the “Extremely Effective Accuracy” or “U.F.A.” designation. This time period is a nod to the “Very Effective Accuracy (V.F.A.)” watches Grand Seiko produced between 1960 and 1975, which represented the top of Grand Seiko’s mechanical watchmaking and, because the identify implies, had been very correct, concentrating on -2/+4 seconds per day. The SLGB003’s Calibre 9RB2, nonetheless, is correct to ±20 seconds a 12 months, making it probably the most correct watch motion powered by a mainspring at present in the marketplace.
Why it issues: The SLGB003 can be a big look ahead to its motion alone. Nevertheless it additionally debuted Grand Seiko’s first-ever on-the-fly micro-adjustment clasp. That is one thing that GS followers have been crying out for, for years! It additionally measures up at 37mm, an eclectic case dimension that’s emblematic of the development in direction of smaller diameters but additionally additional proof that GS listens to its followers like few different manufacturers. And, just like the Snowflake or Shunbun, it embodies a lot of what makes GS nice: Zaratsu-polished titanium; an extremely correct, unique motion know-how; and a surprising textured dial. It’s arguably probably the most enthusiast-focused watch an enormous field model has ever produced – positively one price nerding out on. Worth: A$16,300
#10: Grand Seiko SBGZ009
A limited-edition “holy grail” creation of Seiko’s Micro Artist Studio – an unique division that’s accountable for solely the highest-end Grand Seiko and Credor watches – the SBGZ009 incorporates a hand-engraved platinum case and dial in Grand Seiko’s “White Birch” sample, and represents the last word ending of the manufacture. The Grand Seiko emblem, dial textual content and minute observe are additionally hand-engraved, whereas the indices and palms are constituted of 14ct Zaratsu-polished white gold. The in-house, manual-winding Spring Drive Micro Artist Studio calibre 9R02 that powers the SBGZ009 is the crème de la crème of Grand Seiko actions.
Why it issues: It issues as a result of it reveals the complete would possibly of the Micro Artist Studio. Not solely can Seiko end a motion to a stage that Philippe Dufour can be impressed by, however they’ll additionally end a case in a manner that no different watchmaker is doing. Platinum is a tough metallic to work with, so the very fact Grand Seiko can current it with such immaculate hand-engraving is masterful. However let’s not overlook the motion: the motion Calibre 9R02 is GS’s configuration of the 7R14 that’s within the much-lauded Credor Eichi II, however has the added worth of their torque system, which boosts the ability reserve by 24 hours. It additionally has extra rounded bevelling, which, to my style, is much more interesting to the attention and much more spectacular. That is Seiko on the top of its energy. Worth: A$120,000
#11: Grand Seiko SBGJ269 “Pink Flannel Flower”
The primary-ever Australian restricted version Grand Seiko ever launched, the SBGJ269 “Pink Flannel Flower” was impressed by the eponymous blossom, which solely blooms after bushfires – a poignant tribute to the 2019–20 bushfire season that devastated Australia. (Grand Seiko even raffled off a mannequin to help the Basis for Nationwide Parks & Wildlife.)
Why it issues: the Pink Flannel Flower is noteworthy not solely as a result of it displays how a lot care Grand Seiko pours into its regional exclusives, but additionally as a result of it’s an excellent instance of the model’s Magnificence GMT watches, in addition to how GS isn’t afraid to experiment with off-beat colors. Oh yeah, and it doesn’t damage that this was Australia’s first restricted version Grand Seiko. Australia, as a small and distant marketplace for most luxurious watch manufacturers, is normally ignored in relation to doling out particular editions. That Australia obtained such consideration – and a very thought-about restricted version at that, which pays homage to a distinctly Australian flower – is especially considerate. We even have it on good authority that the Pink Flannel Flower was the primary and solely watch to not be impressed by a component of Japanese nature. In that sense, it’s completely distinctive. Worth: A$10,600
#12: Grand Seiko SBGD202
One other uncommon creation of Seiko’s Micro Artist Studio, the diamond mud dial of the SBGD202 is each refined and demanding of consideration, as is its Zaratsu-polished rose gold case. What’s actually particular, although, is the manually-wound 9R01 motion inside, which options an eight-day energy reserve whereas sustaining a outstanding precision fee of 10 seconds per thirty days.
Why it issues: Grand Seiko doesn’t make many gold watches, however after they do, they’re knock-outs, and this timepiece is a living proof. Its spectacular 9R01 motion isn’t simply Grand Seiko’s very first manually-wound Spring Drive motion, nevertheless it boasts the longest energy reserve of any GS, too. The diamond mud dial of the SBGD202 shouldn’t be ignored, both: produced by way of an unique course of that options each plating and portray, it’s intriguingly three-dimensional (images don’t do it justice); much more three-dimensional than gold flux dials produced by a number of the world’s highest-end watchmakers. Worth: A$68,200
#13: Grand Seiko SLGW003
If we’re speaking manual-wound Grand Seikos, the SLGW003 (and its rose gold SLGW002 sibling) unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2024 positively must be within the dialogue. Solely 9.95mm thick, it incorporates a distinctive tackle a White Birch dial with a horizontal texture reasonably than a vertical one, and is crafted from Good Laborious Titanium: a proprietary Grand Seiko alloy that’s brighter and extra corrosion-resistant than conventional titanium.
Why it issues: The 9SA4 within the SLGW003 is the primary high-beat manually-wound motion Grand Seiko has made in half a century, and it’s a gem of a motion. Boasting an 80-hour energy reserve due to its twin impulse escapement and twin barrels, it’s technically extremely competent. The very best factor concerning the 9SA4, although, is that its click on is formed like a wagtail – a chicken generally seen across the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi – with the press showing to peck because the watch is wound; an uncharacteristically whimsical contact. It’s additionally only a cracking costume watch that proves Grand Seiko’s mastery of titanium isn’t solely reserved for sports activities watches. Worth: A$16,500
#14: Grand Seiko SBGA405 Godzilla sixty fifth Anniversary Restricted Version
Lastly, we have now the limited-edition SBGA405, first launched in 2019 to commemorate the twentieth anniversary of the Spring Drive in addition to the sixty fifth anniversary of the enduring Godzilla film franchise. Enjoyable truth: within the first Godzilla movie, the kaiju rampages by Tokyo’s Ginza and destroys the clock tower of the Wako retailer, the luxurious division retailer that serves as Seiko’s head workplace and marks the birthplace of Seiko. It incorporates a crimson dial impressed by Godzilla’s warmth ray beam, a black and crimson shark-leather strap that re-creates the tone and tough texture of the monster’s pores and skin, in addition to a graphic on the caseback that reveals Godzilla destroying the Wako retailer. It’s a enjoyable and strange piece that revels in its Japanese-ness.
Why it issues: Grand Seiko has a popularity for being considerably conservative, however the Godzilla proves that they know the way to have a little bit of enjoyable, too – in addition to how they’re in contact with the model collaboration zeitgeist. That stated, it’s a really refined and tastefully executed collaboration: on the wrist, it’s not instantly obvious that it’s a collab, with its secret solely being revealed by taking a look at its caseback. It’s additionally a premier instance of Grand Seiko’s chunky and angular Sport (or ‘Lion’) case design: GS isn’t nearly conventional watch shapes. Lastly, crimson is a not often used color in luxurious watchmaking, and this radiant crimson dial is an actual knock-out. Worth: A$16,000
