The best MIL-SPEC watches | BUYING GUIDES

Tom Austin

The watch world’s reference to the army is unequivocal, regardless of the time period “MIL-SPEC” – the abbreviation for army specification – changing into extra of a advertising time period just lately. In actuality, nonetheless, MIL-SPEC stands for one thing rather more tangible than an abused buzzword in terms of watches. MIL-SPEC stands for the very set of requirements that stop this stuff from occurring, and that’s what makes these watches among the hardest on the planet. Particularly, the time period originated as shorthand for “United States Navy Commonplace”, although it has since turn into a extra usually used time period for any kind of army normal, or extra usually, military-spec tools. Aside from these instances when these “requirements” require the gadgets to be as straightforward on the army budgets as attainable… However we received’t fear about that now.

However what makes a MIL-SPEC watch? A large number of options can carry a watch into MIL-SPEC requirements to be used in operations, particularly features equivalent to excessive sturdiness, low reflectivity, excessive dial legibility and comparatively simplistic perform. However all of them need to do a easy job: to be an operator’s instrument. So listed below are our favourites, chosen for his or her use by militaries around the globe, and although considerably stretching the unique utilization of the MIL-SPEC time period, they’ve all earned a spot on the record.

Casio F-91W

You can not have a listing of among the hardest, most sturdy watches on the planet with out the OG. The unique onerous case, the go-everywhere, do-everything Casio F91W. Whereas it’s not a G-Shock, which you would possibly presume is a army operative’s go-to, it’s nonetheless probably the most sturdy wristwatches you should purchase. This meant that it was notably standard amongst the newly enlisted, who wanted one thing low cost and purposeful that helped them discover their manner by way of coaching and into military life. Functionally, the F91W is likely one of the most simplistic watches you could find, that includes a full digital chronograph, an annual calendar with leap-year adjustment, alarms together with an hourly beep, a backlight, and 30 metres of water resistance. Launched in 1989, it’s gone on to be one of many best-selling watches ever made, with round 120 million in circulation immediately. Value: A$60 (or much less)

Seiko 5 SNKP21J1

The Seiko 5 is easy and reliable, and gives every part the seemingly common wearer may have in any state of affairs. That is actually the use case for an operator within the CIA, for which this explicit watch has turn into fairly synonymous. The CIA has a protracted historical past of issuing Seiko watches by way of the ’60s and ’70s, after which into the ’80s and ’90s, lots of the operatives spent an enormous period of time within the Center East. This implies the “Arabic Seiko” is extraordinarily extremely regarded by the CIA neighborhood. And fairly frankly, it appears rattling cool with it too. It’s a unique-looking, stand-out piece within the Seiko 5 vary. This 42mm watch is made in full stainless-steel and has an computerized motion that shows the time, day, and date. The black dial options sword arms resulting in jap Arabic numerals, which make the watch stand out as one thing particular. Whereas the watch is now discontinued, it may possibly nonetheless be discovered on the market at sure retailers. Value: ~A$250

Hamilton Khaki Discipline Mechanical 38mm

There’s not a lot to say that you just received’t already know in terms of the Hamilton Khaki Discipline Mechanical. Manually wound, with 24-hour markings on a legible, black dial, this is likely one of the hottest picks not just for a area watch, however for any watch at this value level total. The 38mm case accommodates Hamilton’s H-50 motion with 80 hours of energy reserve, and the 20mm lug width makes it tremendous versatile by way of strap choices. Value: ranging from A$950 from the Time+Tide Store (additionally accessible in our UK retailer)

CWC Mellor-72 Mechanical

The Cabot Watch Firm Mellor-72 is a tribute to the very first watch the corporate produced for the British Ministry of Defence, initially issued to the Military, Navy and Air Pressure trifecta. Powered by a hand-wound Sellita in a 38mm case, the straightforward dial has printed Arabics and a broad arrow insignia, whereas the strap is held in place by mounted spring bars. Value: £460

Benrus Sort I and Sort II

Benrus was a vital provider for the US army in the course of the Vietnam Conflict, equipping just about all of its specialist departments. MIL-W-50717 specified the design particulars for Benrus’ manufacturing, for each the sterile-dialled Sort I and Sort II with its 24-hour scale. Beforehand not accessible to the general public, Benrus is now providing each the Sort I and Sort II as limited-edition fashions, in a 42.5mm x 47.5mm case, powered by an unspecified ETA computerized or Soprod P024, respectively. Value: US$1,495 (Sort I and Sort II)

Marathon Massive Diver’s Computerized (GSAR)

The Marathon GSAR is the one watch on this record that’s truly at the moment issued to the army, constructed to US specs and supplied to troops in Iraq and Afghanistan. The sturdy diver boasts 300 metres of water resistance, whereas tritium tubes on its indices and arms guarantee fixed low-light visibility. Powered by a Sellita computerized motion, its 41mm diameter could also be too massive for some, so Marathon additionally provide a 36mm model. Value: US$1,500

Resco Blackfrog UDT

The U.S. Navy SEALs appear to know quite a bit about their MIL-SPEC watches, so if you happen to have been to create a watch for the SEALs, who can be higher to create one than an precise Navy SEAL? Retired veteran Rob Smith based Resco Devices in 2009, alongside along with his spouse, U.S. Coast Guard veteran Nicole Smith. They set about designing and manufacturing wristwatches that serve a objective: to be modern, easy, and rugged. Particularly with Resco, kind follows perform, with no dial, sub-dial, nor bezel current when not serving a objective. As a result of watchmaker’s nonetheless busy army schedule, the numbers produced are comparatively low. Nevertheless, quite a lot of them have discovered their manner onto energetic army wrists. The Blackfrog UDT retains issues easy with a quartz motion, permitting for fewer mechanical parts to go incorrect within the area. Nevertheless, if you happen to’re a purist, the watch could be specified with a Sellita W200 computerized. The 42mm stainless-steel comes full with a full DLC coating for sturdiness, and the dial is deliberately darkish, so it doesn’t glow too brightly if you don’t wish to be seen. Value: A$2,940 (quartz), A$3,326 (computerized)

Micromilspec Milgraph

Whereas many watchmakers have well-established reputations for army fee watches, Norway’s Micromilspec (hell, it’s within the identify!) stands aside from the remainder of the trade by primarily producing army commissions, lots of that are completely distinctive fashions. This hardy chronograph is one in every of solely a handful of fashions the Norwegian model makes accessible to the general public, but it surely’s nonetheless operator-ready. Its left-hand-mounted pushers and crown are super-slimline, whereas its “QuadGrip” bezel is designed to be straightforward to control whereas sporting gloves. Every of its subdials is explicitly labelled for optimum legibility, whereas its robust titanium case homes a La Joux-Perret L121 motion. Value: US$3,850

Tudor Pelagos FXD US Navy

Launched in September 2023, the FXD was a considerably controversial watch on the time. The watch world has been begging for a re-imagined Tudor Submariner for what seems like an eternity now, and when the watch was teased, they launched reminders of Tudor’s heritage with the US Navy, offering them with their Submariners all through the Nineteen Sixties to the late ’80s. It felt like a Submariner was on the best way. Nevertheless, what we obtained was a black dial and bezel model of the Tudor Pelagos FXD, a barely totally different model of the watch utilized by the French Marine Nationale. A nice wristwatch in each manner, but it surely then obtained an entire heap cooler when it was uncovered just a few days later that the U.S. Navy SEALs had been testing the watch in motion for effectively over a yr. Objectively, it’s the right dive watch. The 42mm case is titanium and, subsequently, light-weight, sturdy, and never overly flashy. There are not any spring bars to fail, as an alternative, a extra distinctive built-in lug design retains the straps locked in place securely. The rotating ceramic bezel is brilliant and massively legible due to full lume, and the dial is brilliantly legible behind an anti-reflective crystal to make studying the watch underwater extraordinarily straightforward. It’s understood that the suggestions from the SEALs is that the FXD was a implausible instrument watch – I don’t learn about you, however I’d belief their judgement. Value: A$6,140

Rolex Explorer II

You could be forgiven for considering that Rolexes are for puffer vest-wearing finance-bros, usually discovered wiping a tear once they get their first scratch on the clasp, and in lots of instances, you’d be proper. Nevertheless, there’s a motive that Rolex has a status for making arguably among the greatest watches on the planet. The Explorer II is an ideal instance of this. It’s a watch that, on the floor, appears like a standard GMT and can stand up to any quantity of desk-diving you throw at it, however beneath the floor is a watch that’s hard-as-nails. Like, actually, actually onerous. It’s issued to none apart from the SAS, the elite particular forces unit of the British Military. It’s broadly identified that these guys practice the very best of the very best and function in excessive secrecy, nonetheless, a handful have made it onto the open market. Engraved with distinctive serial numbers and the enduring winged dagger badge, with the motto “Who Dares Wins”. Moreover, we all know {that a} younger Prince Harry, throughout his time in energetic service, wore an Explorer II as his unit watch, specifically made for his Assault Helicopter regiment. Value: A$15,550

IWC Huge Pilot’s Watch 43 High Gun

There’s nothing worse than being mid-mission, hiding within the shadows, and getting noticed due to a brilliant silver reflective scratch in your watch case. What a nightmare. Properly, worry not, fellow espionage-ists. IWC has simply the factor: a army field-style watch with an unscratchable black ceramic case. Launched to have fun the launch of the latest High Gun film, the IWC Huge Pilot’s Watch High Gun is not any film prop. It’s a critical piece of package, that includes a 43.8mm full again ceramic case, a sort A dial for final legibility, and an IWC 82100 motion to maintain the watch operating completely. Particularly designed for army pilots, the Huge Pilot High Gun might be one in every of IWC’s most favoured latest designs, with the straightforward and extremely legible dial, the contact of crimson for the TOP GUN textual content, the titanium caseback and crown, and the black textile strap. It’s undoubtedly a type of “if you realize, you realize” watches. Value: A$15,700