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Watches and Wonders 2025 has left us, however did it depart an impression? The straightforward reply is “sure.” This was a a lot better present than the 2024 rendition. Correct new releases got here to Geneva, and, general, we left feeling happy. With out additional ado, listed below are my picks for the very best watches from the present.
Patek Philippe 6196P — kicking off the very best Watches and Wonders 2025 releases
Since I’ve grow to be conscious of and concerned with Patek Philippe, I’m undecided if the model has launched something that I’ve really favored. Huge, flashy items with a great deal of glitz have been the usual, and truthfully, I haven’t liked any of them. I’ve pleaded for a plain-Jane Calatrava, and one lastly debuted this 12 months at Watches and Wonders. Granted, it’s in platinum and retails for €47,520, however I suppose that’s the value of doing enterprise today.
The salmon-dial 6196P is bigger than I’d like with its 38mm case. I’d additionally like to see a manual-winding central-seconds mannequin once more as an alternative of a sub-seconds dial, however it is a minor quibble. The 30‑255 PS caliber with its 65 hours of energy reserve isn’t as finely bridged as classic actions, nevertheless it’s nonetheless beautiful. This watch is straightforward, clear, and, unexpectedly, reveals how exhausting it’s to make a rattling good costume watch. Welcome again from the land of Cubitus, Patek Philippe. Keep tuned for a lengthier evaluation of this one.
Arnold & Son Fixed Power Tourbillon 11
I’m a fan of pocket watches, however I can’t admit to proudly owning a tourbillon model. The Arnold & Son Fixed Power Tourbillon 11 is a wristwatch made on this model that celebrates the enduring friendship between Abraham-Louis Breguet and John Arnold. The watch in query is an version of simply 11 items, and it’s rattling costly at CHF 129,800. Nonetheless, the white Grand Feu enamel dial is stunningly clear and delightful.
The constant-force tourbillon doesn’t wreck the dial, nevertheless it appears to be like like one thing from centuries previous. It has 100 hours of energy reserve and shows true-beat seconds. Flip the watch on its bottom, and there’s a historical past lesson. The messaging on the again is evident, as is the motion structure. I liked this watch, and even when its 41.5mm case is simply too huge on my wrist, it’s a lovely object.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF 36mm Stone Blue
For 2 years now, I’ve lusted over one thing from Parmigiani Fleurier, and whereas the 36mm Tonda PF in Stone Blue isn’t a novelty within the truest sense, it was the primary time I noticed it. This watch is a correct competitor to the entire largest names within the integrated-bracelet style, and for my cash, it wins and wins huge. Parmigiani watches really feel strong, however they put on like jewellery. The ridged platinum bezels, sublimely skinny bracelets, and comfortingly sparse dials come collectively to create a few of the loveliest trendy watches on the scene.
The PF770-HM computerized motion inside a Parmigiani can also be worthy of reward. Ending is a precedence together with efficiency, together with 60 hours of energy reserve. Too usually, we ruminate about resale worth when desirous about this sum of money (CHF 21,400). Frankly, for no matter purpose, Parmigiani doesn’t appear to fee among the many huge children within the trade, however that’s a crying disgrace. Screw the secondary market and go after one among these watches. They’re that good on the wrist.
Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB003
It’s not that I haven’t loved what Grand Seiko has executed over the previous years, however nothing has stirred me fairly like the brand new U.F.A. A 37mm titanium case and bracelet make for an ideal mixture on the wrist. Certainly, the watch looks like nothing, nevertheless it’s a lot extra. At €12,000, it’s not cheap, nevertheless it stacks up effectively in opposition to the competitors.
The woven, snowy-landscape-like dial appears to be like beautiful, even when we all know there’ll be extra variants sooner or later. Who cares, although? That is what Grand Seiko does finest when the corporate isn’t overly hooked up to its previous. Breaking out and making a normal that bests the competitors is why we love this model. Oh, and a brand new Spring Drive 9RB2 caliber with 72 hours of energy reserve and gorgeous accuracy doesn’t harm! The advantageous people from Grand Seiko UK talked about {that a} 12 months has over 3,000,000 seconds, and this watch errs by simply ±20 of them. Let that sink in…
Eberhard Contodat Chronograph — the final picks for the very best Watches and Wonders 2025 releases
You’ll get a full evaluation of this one within the subsequent day or so, however Eberhard dropped a beautiful shock on us at Watches and Wonders. The Contodat Chronograph is a reissue of the early ’70s Contograf. Even when we’re working on empty with retro releases, it is a rattling good one. The 39mm watch appears to be like like high quality, and it matches properly.
A top-grade Sellita motion, a snug bracelet, and a 100m water resistance score make this a compelling introduction. Plus, at lower than €3,970, it’s fairly compelling. Eberhard isn’t a family title, however the firm has been round for ages. Why not strive a definite providing as an alternative of sticking to the mainstream?
That’s all for now
I finished at 5 picks for my finest Watches and Wonders 2025 releases. I might have chosen extra, which is telling. Lange, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and different manufacturers introduced the products too. This was a greater 12 months than 2025 in so some ways. Positive, there have been new dial colours, however I witnessed many new strains and a give attention to actions. Let me know what you consider these picks, and prepare for extra of those articles from my colleagues.
