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When Biver launched to nice fanfare in 2023, the debut watch displayed watchmaking maximalism at its best. Father and son Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver should have requested themselves, “What if we flip the whole lot as much as eleven?” The younger model’s second mannequin, the Automatique, dialed issues down considerably. Nonetheless, it regarded distinctly intricate and actually Biver-esque. As we speak’s new Biver Automatique Japan Version takes a distinct method. Watchmaking maximalism meets aesthetic minimalism.
I normally chorus from sharing my opinions till the top of an introduction article, however permit me to make an exception. This system works for me — these are my favourite Biver watches but! Let’s have a more in-depth look!
The Biver Automatique
First, let’s soar again to final 12 months’s launch as these new fashions are, in essence, new dial variants of the unique Automatique. Whereas Biver’s inaugural mannequin, the Carillon Tourbillon, paired a minute repeater and a tourbillon, the second mannequin provided hours, minutes, and seconds — nothing extra. I felt that the preliminary mannequin was a press release of intent: “Be careful, watch world; the Bivers are again!” The second mannequin most likely informed us extra in regards to the aesthetic going ahead. The Automatique seems like an excellent platform on which to construct.
Seeing new variants at this time isn’t all that shocking, then. What is shocking is the design restraint practiced, impressed by Japanese watchmaking. These two new variations are exclusives for Biver’s Japanese approved seller, The Hour Glass.
We see the identical 39mm case with its 10mm thickness and 47.6mm lug-to-lug. The steeply angled lugs accommodate 19mm alligator straps in black or brown. The case additionally options an exhibition again and an ample 80m water resistance score. Inside ticks the automated micro-rotor caliber JCB-003 at 25,200 vibrations per hour. Biver specifies a 65-hour energy reserve for this motion. After all, naked specs don’t do a caliber of this stage justice, so let’s have a barely nearer look.
The Biver Automatique’s caliber JCB-003
The 30.6mm × 4mm motion contained in the Biver Automatique Japan Version is a watchmaker’s feast. Past the stop-seconds, zero-reset, and bidirectionally winding micro-rotor, it might sound easy. It’s something however. A more in-depth look reveals a few of that maximalism I hinted at earlier.
Biver’s philosophy is straightforward: “It doesn’t matter what it prices; if it will probably make the watch higher, let’s do it.” This implies each final floor is completed to the best ranges. After all, all polished surfaces are black-polished, and you will discover guillochage, anglage, and perlage in spades. I think about that is what you’ll get for those who ticked each field in your watchmaker’s order kind.
On to the dials — the center of the matter
Once I first opened the press pack for the brand new Biver Automatique Japan Version, I needed to blink for a second. Was this actually a brand new Biver watch? It was so clear and easy. It regarded so restrained. Now, I affiliate many issues with the Biver title, however restraint shouldn’t be one. Nonetheless, right here we’re.
Don’t be fooled, although, as a result of the watchmaking maximalism continues behind the scenes. These deceptively easy enamel dials take 10 hours to layer on high of an 18K white or 22K rose gold clean. It then takes one other six hours to shine them to an ideal sheen. I’d like to see the method as a result of I do know from expertise what it takes to create an enamel dial. The extent of element you should go into for it to take two full working days have to be loopy.
It’s notoriously laborious to mount utilized indexes on an enameled floor. You run the chance of cracking the enamel. To counter this, Biver left tiny spots enamel-free to facilitate a gold-on-gold connection. Once more, realizing the best way to enamel, I can attest to how difficult that is to get proper. With the slightest mistake, the fragile marker would sit crooked or present imperfections within the enamel.
Closing ideas on the Biver Automatique Japan Version
Taking such a maximalist method to a minimalist watch comes at a price. The rose gold mannequin with the black dial is available in at CHF 89,000, and the platinum mannequin with the white dial prices CHF 92,000. Biver will make a restricted — although not specified — quantity for the Japanese market solely.
I’d like to go hands-on with one among these watches, however I’d like to see the craftspeople engaged on them much more. Having dealt with my fair proportion of high-end watches, the proof of the pudding is within the consuming. Biver actually pulls no punches, pricing these a number of instances greater than (specs-wise) comparable watches from, say, Breguet, A. Lange & Söhne, and Patek Philippe. I discover it not possible to guage whether or not that distinction is tangible within the product from press supplies alone.
This additionally makes me a bit reluctant to be overly opinionated. One factor I can decide from a distance is design. To me, Biver working towards some restraint works very nicely. The Biver Automatique Japan Version blends classical minimalism with a definite character. That’s no imply feat!
What do you consider the brand new Biver Automatique Japan Version? Tell us within the feedback under!
