The Cartier Santos Galbée XL

Welcome to a different installment of Exploring Evergreens, a sequence right here on Fratello wherein we get our arms on watches which were round for over a decade — or lengthy sufficient to really feel ubiquitous — and ask ourselves in the event that they’ve managed to face the take a look at of time. We’ll deal with whether or not they’re nonetheless related, how they really feel right this moment, and, finally, in the event that they’re price their present costs. In some circumstances, when the authors personal/have owned the particular items, they’ll dig into how their emotions about them have developed and whether or not or not they nonetheless deserve a spot of their collections. At this time, I’m honored to function my beloved, all-steel Cartier Santos de Cartier Galbée XL from 2006. Sure, I believe that’s certainly its official full title (as redundant as it might be).

Over the previous couple of years, I’ve written a lot about my Cartier Santos Galbée. That’s as a result of it’s considered one of my favourite watches, interval. So in case you’re searching for a really goal article on this watch, there are many historic overviews on the market, however you don’t need to go that far. I believe the late George Cramer wrote among the finest overview articles when Cartier determined to discontinue the Santos Galbée XL in 2016. Nevertheless, I’ll additionally begin with a fast historic overview for the readers who don’t really feel like clicking away.

The historical past of the Cartier Santos (de Cartier)

Louis Cartier developed this now-famous sq. wristwatch for his pilot good friend Alberto Santos-Dumont. The latter thought it was annoying to take out his pocket watch whereas making an attempt to interrupt flight information when he lived in Paris. In 1904, Louis Cartier introduced him with the Cartier Santos, a sq. yellow gold wristwatch with screws that held down the crystal. Some say the inspiration for its sturdy design comes from the Eiffel Tower and that the Roman numerals reference the structure of the streets and broad boulevards of Paris.

The Santos Galbée XL subsequent to the 1978 Santos — Picture: George Cramer

In 1911, the Cartier Santos went into common manufacturing, and till 1978, it was the one sort of Santos out there. Meaning it was at all times made from gold or platinum and solely out there on a (leather-based) strap. In that sense, the Cartier Santos was extra of a costume look ahead to the completely happy few than a sports activities look ahead to the lots. In 1978, Cartier launched the primary metal and gold Santos de Cartier. The distinctive factor about this Santos was that it additionally got here with an identical metal bracelet with gold screws. Whereas this bracelet wasn’t built-in with the case within the truest sense, it was maybe Cartier’s reply to the pattern that the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Ingenieur began earlier that decade. Nevertheless, in comparison with these watches, it value much less, particularly the full-steel model that got here out later.

(My) Santos de Cartier Galbée XL

The primary model of the Santos de Cartier nonetheless had a couple of sharp angles, particularly on the transition from the case to the lugs. Additionally, the hyperlinks on the bracelet have been fairly “sq.” (nicely, really, rectangular). Due to that, it’s also known as the Santos Carrée. In 1987, Cartier launched the curvier Santos de Cartier Galbée. It did away with these onerous corners, and the hyperlinks on the bracelet received a convex form. Lastly, in 2005, Cartier launched the Santos de Cartier Galbée XL ref. 2823. That is the watch I’m so keen on. It has a 32mm diameter and 45mm lug-to-lug size.

Inside, there’s an ETA 2892 computerized motion, which Cartier designates as caliber 049. It runs at a frequency of 28,800vph, options 21 jewels, and holds an influence reserve of 42 hours. It isn’t a powerful in-house motion (or square-shaped, for that matter), however for the worth, I believe it’s nonetheless a succesful and dependable caliber. In addition to, any watchmaker can service it, which may be very handy. With its 3.6mm profile, it’s additionally pretty slim, giving this Santos Galbée an 8.8mm general thickness.

The elephant within the room: the present Santos de Cartier

So, is the Cartier Santos Galbée XL from 2005 nonetheless related these days? La Maison discontinued it in 2016 and reintroduced the Santos de Cartier two years later. The case obtained updates when it comes to its proportions, the watches now have in-house actions. Nevertheless, to me, probably the most notable distinction is the “overflowing” bezel as an alternative of the sq. one. I do just like the date-less dial of the brand new medium-sized Santos de Cartier. Plus, whereas the case has a barely bigger 35mm diameter, its shorter 42mm size makes it put on fairly properly on wrists of many sizes.

Nevertheless, I simply can’t recover from the polished bezel flowing into the brushed bracelet. It merely doesn’t do it for me. I like the distinction between the brushed case and the polished sq. bezel on my Galbée XL. It accentuates the individuality of the Santos design. Distinction is exactly what it’s about. On one hand, the Roman numerals, its curves, and the smallish measurement make it really feel like a sublime watch. Then again, the screws, the chrome steel bracelet, and the sq. dial and bezel flip it right into a sports activities watch. I really feel the designers took it one step too far with the overflowing bezel on the present Santos de Cartier fashions.

Is it price it?

A brand-new Santos de Cartier in a medium measurement presently prices €7,700. Based mostly on knowledge from Chrono24, the Santos Galbée XL sells for a median value of €6,000. In reality, that’s the most costly it has been since Chrono24 began retaining observe in 2013. With the present state of the watch market and the delicate geopolitical state of affairs, although, I believe you’ll find one for rather less. Let’s say there’s a €2,000 value distinction between the brand new Santos de Cartier and the neo-vintage Santos Galbée XL.

If you would like an untouched watch, it may not be such a stretch to go for a brand-new Santos straight out of the Cartier boutique. That method, at the least you begin with a pristine polished bezel. You additionally get the upgraded bracelet with the QuickSwitch and the SmartLink methods, so that you gained’t want any instruments to swap it out for a leather-based strap or to measurement it. Nevertheless, you do need to put up with the brand new bezel form.

Should you desire the sq. bezel, I don’t assume the Santos Galbée XL is a nasty choice. Simply be sure you discover one with screws that haven’t been brushed to match the remainder of the bracelet. The motion inside is a lot dependable, however swapping the bracelet for one thing else is likely to be a bit troublesome. Then once more, it seems finest on the bracelet anyway. So, if you wish to put on a Cartier Santos on a leather-based strap, I’d suggest shopping for the extra elegant Santos-Dumont.

Ultimate phrases

I’m nonetheless over the moon with my Cartier Santos Galbée XL that I purchased 5 years in the past. I haven’t thought of buying and selling it in for a brand new one in any respect. It’s snug and appears nice in many alternative conditions. I additionally really feel it’s distinctive within the general panorama of watch design. So sure, to me, the Galbée XL remains to be very related, even with the present Santos de Cartier as an choice. However what do you assume? Is the sq. bezel as essential to you as it’s to me, or would you favor the modernized Santos de Cartier? Let me know your ideas within the feedback under.